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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2008 1:48:00 GMT 1
Well I was thinking of getting some Cold Cathode tubes that are used in PC's, only thing then is how to wire them up for power as they run of a PSU normally. They need 12 volts into the inverter with a very large voltage out of the inverter. Specifications: Tube diameter: 3.0mm. Tube length: 300mm/100mm. Input voltage of inverter: 12v. Output voltage of inverter: 680v. Current draw: 5.0mAv. Brightness: 28,000~30,000 cd/m2. Lifetime: 30,000 hours. www.directron.com/clk12wt.html - 12in Cold Cathode PC Light Kit, White Color, Dual Tubes, Retail box Not sure you really want 680 volts AC floating round the inside of the hull. ;D ;D ;D How about some leds, much lower operating voltage and less heat output and available in various colours.
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Post by Achtung!! on Mar 18, 2008 8:24:56 GMT 1
Great idea for the bootlace connectors - I will have a look at Maplins or someone like that, as Im using the strips of wood for the stern instead of the supplied pieces and I think it will look good. As for the lights, model railway builders use tiny grain -of-wheat bulbs - but they are twelve volts.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2008 9:01:12 GMT 1
Grain -of- wheat bulbs will work on a lower voltage, there just not as bright. I have a model railway. See the layout thread in Other Models.
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Post by swanrail on Mar 19, 2008 0:00:46 GMT 1
Individual white LEDS for each porthoile will be very expensive, better idea would be to buy a few and run fibre optics to the portholes, say 12 portholes per LED if you can arrange 12 fibres per LED? ? The typical working voltage required is 4 volts, so need to be fed via a resistor from a higher supply, such as 7.2 volts, or 12 volts depending on your fitted batteries. Typical current needs are about 20ma per LED. As the ship would never show any lights when in a battle mode, but only when at anchor in a safe anchorage (and even then, did I not see deadlights etched onto the brass side bits???), so is it worth doing???.
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Post by afkmatrix on Mar 19, 2008 1:12:13 GMT 1
Fair enough Swanrail was only an idea, I might for this build just stick without as I have more than enough to do/learn any how lol!!
So what do you peeps think of those portholes I linked to from Cornwall Model Boats?
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Post by nm on Mar 19, 2008 1:21:00 GMT 1
Go the easier and cheaper way - get potholes instead of portholes.
NM
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2008 1:42:56 GMT 1
They look nice afkmatrix, have no idea what I'll be doing yet. Nowhere near that stage yet.
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Post by afkmatrix on Mar 19, 2008 2:11:23 GMT 1
Yeah I won't be needing them till i have painted the hull, which will be some time yet. I am currently doing some superstructure issue as I am waiting on a set square I have ordered so I can square up the resin pieces for fitting.
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Post by Achtung!! on Mar 19, 2008 9:13:38 GMT 1
I couldnt get the link to work....
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2008 9:52:24 GMT 1
You have to copy and paste the 2 parts of it into something like notepad and join the 2 bits together, then copy and paste the complete url into your browser. It was too long to be all on the 1 line.
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Post by Mark on Mar 19, 2008 22:14:50 GMT 1
I guess you're talking about the portholes in the hull. I'm just going to use some 3mm brass tube to make port hole inserts. Crimped in a 3 jaw chuck to make them watertight (or at least, that is the plan)
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Post by paulhbell on Apr 2, 2008 20:40:01 GMT 1
Nice idea about using brass tube for the port holes. Made me think about I was going to do with my port holes. There's not a lot going on a work at the moment, so I might turn, then drill and part off some brass parts, to use for the port holes. Parting off saves crimping the ends.
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Post by popeye on Apr 3, 2008 9:47:49 GMT 1
For the portholes I will be seagoing, so I need to ensure that they are watertight. I have therefore drilled into the wood/plastic about 5mm with a 2mm dia drill and I have bought some 2mm diameter perspex rod (from my local plastics shop) and cut 6mm lengths which I will glue into the holes so the the ends just stick out through the brass portholes, like little glass windows. This not only looks good and prevents water getting into the model but keeps the brass pieces in place while they are being glued!
If you want to light these then you could drill all the way into the wood/plastic so that the perspex rod can stick out inside the framework and have a few inches of "tail" inside. The rod is reasonably flexible so several of them could be bunched together inside and the ends glued to form one effective piece, the end of the bunch can then be filed smooth and a white led (you can get them up to 10mm dia so this could light up to 20 x 2mm rods all bunched together) pointed at them. However, this will make the inside of the structures look like spaghetti junction! Another way would be to just have the rods poke out inside the framework and put an ordinary torch bulb inside the centre of each deck structure so that the all round light will be seen through each plastic porthole, could be a bit wasteful on power though as several of the torch bulbs could draw a few amps. it is possible that the grain of wheat bulbs may give enough all-round light, without taking too much from the battery.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2008 1:38:13 GMT 1
Or maybe white high brightness leds, which use even less power.
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Post by vontunzelmann on May 27, 2008 11:30:40 GMT 1
I have produced portholes for the Bismarck model. The dimensions are. outside diameter 1.2mm, inside diameter 2.5mm thickness 1.2mm, material aluminium. They fit into the drilled hole slightly below the outside surface as per original. Can be located with a simply made inserting tool I'm sorry I don't know how to post photos on this board. If anyone wants to email me here is my email address. richardm@petrie.hotkey.net.au A set of portholes ( enough for the hachette model is $10 Australian +$5.00 postage worldwide. I have photos available. regards von Tunzelmann
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