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Post by markus on Feb 15, 2008 7:51:33 GMT 1
wow, this is really long running time !!!
what kind of motors did you use ?
markus
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Post by david on Feb 17, 2008 17:41:30 GMT 1
Hi Markus,
I've just seen your post on turret Anton, and also the video (very smooth by the way). I'll be watching your progress with interest, since I'm undecided whether to go digital (using a finger) or electronic. I'm interested also to know why you've removed so much of the foredeck forward of Anton? David
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Post by markus on Feb 17, 2008 20:08:28 GMT 1
Hi Markus, I've just seen your post on turret Anton, and also the video (very smooth by the way). I'll be watching your progress with interest, since I'm undecided whether to go digital (using a finger) or electronic. I'm interested also to know why you've removed so much of the foredeck forward of Anton? David decided to fill all areas between the frames with fibreglass tape and to fill the bow area with lead and epoxi resin, so i cut off a bit more than needed to fit the servo... found a small r/c switching module with 3 of those (and 2 or 3 relays) i'll be able to activate the front or rear turrets (or both) with my 3rd channel switch and let them turn with the rudder stick.... markus markus
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Post by Mike B on Feb 17, 2008 20:28:59 GMT 1
Markus, Excellent idea for moving the turrets. This is a good method for us static builders who are not using radio control. The wires for the power can be brought out via a hollow pedestal and under the base.
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Post by markus on Feb 17, 2008 20:54:40 GMT 1
Markus, Excellent idea for moving the turrets. This is a good method for us static builders who are not using radio control. The wires for the power can be brought out via a hollow pedestal and under the base. ..how about a small battery compartment and a toggle switch somewhere in the superstructure ?? markus
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Post by Mike B on Feb 18, 2008 13:03:59 GMT 1
..how about a small battery compartment and a toggle switch somewhere in the superstructure ?? markus Excellent idea Markus. Logical if not in display case, however, mine will be in a display case, therefore the controls need to be outside the case.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2008 3:29:51 GMT 1
Would motors from www.precisionmicrodrives.com/ be any good for the turrets, (just for rotating the guns, not planning on having elevation on them) and/or radars on Bismarck. Would mean another speed controller I think. ?
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Post by markus on Mar 2, 2008 19:28:09 GMT 1
Would motors from www.precisionmicrodrives.com/ be any good for the turrets, (just for rotating the guns, not planning on having elevation on them) and/or radars on Bismarck. Would mean another speed controller I think. ? no. 212-102 looks good but you'll have to wire some diodes in line so the motor's voltage doesn't exceed 3 volts ( one diode reduces the motor's voltage by 0,7 volts) of course you can use them with a speed controller. in this case a very small controller (1 amps) for a park flyer or similar is sufficient. note that you have to install 2 microwitches for the end positions (wiring diagram in 'turret anton'), otherwise you might destroy turret or superstructure... www.precisionmicrodrives.com/product_info.php?products_id=94
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2008 6:26:40 GMT 1
but you'll have to wire some diodes in line so the motor's voltage doesn't exceed 3 volts ( one diode reduces the motor's voltage by 0,7 volts) Or a zener diode if they make them for a voltage that low.
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Post by markus on Mar 3, 2008 19:33:11 GMT 1
i woudn't suggest using a zener diode
these diodes (used in conjunction with a resistor wired in line) are only capable of limiting the output voltage if you have a constant input voltage or constant current drain don't know if they can be used, because of changing polarity (for left/right turning)
normal diodes reduce the voltage by 0,7 volts each, independent on the current drain. if you wire them anti-parallel you're able to reduce the voltage, independent of the polarity
markus
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2008 4:19:10 GMT 1
hmm ok. Other possible thing is it have a dedicated 3volt supply. Then no problems with excess voltage. But then more batteries to charge up. Ooops just realised how would you control it. Radars would be ok as they can run constantly, but the turrets. ummmmm have to think some more.
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Post by Mark on Mar 4, 2008 5:25:34 GMT 1
You could use Zeners. They drop 0.7 V when conducting in a forward direction (same as any other diode). However, when they are reverse biased the have a low resistance above their zener voltage. You would normally arrange a resistor in series with the supply voltage, and then a zener diode across the load. You need to do some calculations to get the right value for the resistor and also to select the right power rating for both resistor and zener. It's not a very efficient way of doing things. It would probably be easier to arrange a separate power supply, maybe a couple of AA batteries ?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2008 5:28:19 GMT 1
I was thinking of that too, they would also be extra ballast.
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Post by markus on Mar 4, 2008 19:06:40 GMT 1
idea: you could use the 5 volts BEC voltage from one of the contollers with the cut-off red wire (see wiring diagram in rc thread) this power supply is capable of at least 1 amps (more than enough for 4 turrets), also it doesn't affect the power supply of steering servo and receiver
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Post by eric on Mar 5, 2008 0:30:46 GMT 1
Markus, i will be wanting to connect the batteries together soon, are they wired together with solder, or just touching one to another inside the tape?
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