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Post by Mike B on Jun 14, 2009 21:17:07 GMT 1
Has anyone done something similar to this task using "Maskol"?
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Post by popeye on Jun 15, 2009 22:54:53 GMT 1
I have used the Maplin PCB lacquer (see my post on this on the previous page, near the top) on the ships' boats and it worked very well. I will post pictures and details very shortly
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Post by Mark on Jun 15, 2009 23:02:18 GMT 1
It might work Mike, if you've got a steady hand. For those who dont know, Maskol is a paint on masking fluid. A bit like liquid rubber. It's quite thick, and can be coaxed up to a pencil line.
After painting you just rub it off.
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Post by stroker on Jun 17, 2009 9:41:52 GMT 1
Crikey, if Marcus was daunted by the thought of it then I got buckley's of it turning out, lol... Thanks to Mark for your advice... I have seen that maskol on ebay and had thought of using that Mike so I will probably do bits and pieces of all methods. I have been looking up "weathering on a number of sights, some real works of art on there, would help though if they wrote the tips in the queens english... Think i may be off to get a spray brush shortly... take care all... and thanks
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Post by surfsup on Jun 19, 2009 11:39:07 GMT 1
If you want to use Maskol, I would suggest that you use thin strips of masking tape to define the areas that you do not wish to paint. Using Thin strips of masking tape enables you to mask curved areas better than large pieces of tape. When you have laid down your two strips of tape, you can fill the area between the strips with Maskoland let it dry. Then you spray some clear flat over the edges of the tape. This will stop any paint bleed under the tape. When the clear dries, you can then paint the colour you wish and get a straight even edge. When you pull the tape up afterwards, pull the tape away from the paint line to avoid any paint lifting. I hope this helps you.....Cheers Mark. Almost forgot, dont forget to burnish the tape down to help avoid paint bleed under the tape.
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Post by bruno on Jun 21, 2009 8:10:03 GMT 1
I need your opinion ...
I see that most of you use for brass parts a primary coat then a painting coat and then a varnish coat.
I am afraid the three coats will hide many details and that the final varnish will give a shiny look that is not good for a warship. By your experience what could be the problem(s) if leavind brass parts with a single coat (the primary one for example)
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Post by tanus on Jun 21, 2009 8:36:49 GMT 1
Hi Bruno,i have been using photoetch for years,and have never undercoated,on with the primary colour,and never had one problem.Ensure you do all your bending b4 painting Tanus.
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Post by Baz on Jun 21, 2009 9:08:05 GMT 1
I need your opinion ... I see that most of you use for brass parts a primary coat then a painting coat and then a varnish coat. I am afraid the three coats will hide many details and that the final varnish will give a shiny look that is not good for a warship. By your experience what could be the problem(s) if leavind brass parts with a single coat (the primary one for example) Hi Bruno I'm at the experimental stage painting brass bits Using an airbrush, for the very first time in anger .........so to speak I'm using almost 1 part paint to 1 part thinner as apposed to the recommended 2 paint/1 thinner - close to the constituency of water Also I'm pushing it out the nozzle at about 40psi Sounds technical I know, bit its really simple when looking at the gauges. Also I'm trying to keep the spray as fine as possible That means about 5 passes to get coverage and the paint dries in a matter of milliseconds after it hits the surface. The droplets must be minute.....er minuscule. I'm wrapped with this method It would take an hour of spraying to build up the equivalent of a couple of passes from a spray can....... bit of an exaggeration I could probably hit the brass with 4 or 5 coats and lose absolutely no detail at all My top coat intention is increase paint/thinner proportions to 2:1 add some white tint to the primer for the final coats - no lacquer The reason I have been painting as I go is because the paint shows up all the glue overspill and highlights holes, bad joins, mis-alignments etc Does this help Baz
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Post by surfsup on Jun 21, 2009 12:04:41 GMT 1
I need your opinion ... I see that most of you use for brass parts a primary coat then a painting coat and then a varnish coat. I am afraid the three coats will hide many details and that the final varnish will give a shiny look that is not good for a warship. By your experience what could be the problem(s) if leavind brass parts with a single coat (the primary one for example) Hi Bruno. You won't get a shiny finish if you use a clear flat varnish. I use Gunze H-20 clear flat. If you worried about losing details under paint coats, it depends if you are brush painting or airbrushing. If using an Airbrush, it will not hide any details as the paint layers are extremeley thin. With an Airbrush, you mix your paint/thinner ratio to the consistency of milk. I usually spray at a psi of between 20 to 25 for large coverage areas. I have better control over an airbrush than a spraycan. The choice is up to yourself which system you prefer to use....Cheers Mark
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Post by bruno on Jun 21, 2009 20:19:44 GMT 1
Thanks a lot guys for your advice. But there is something i have forgotten to tell you : I'm living in a flat on the 5th floor. So air compressor and air brush connot be full W.A.F. compliant. (see my Post on the joke section buildthebismark.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=jokes&action=display&thread=1530 ) So I still dont know wether i'll use spray can (as I'm a Rooky it can turn into a mess) or a hand brush (but it will lay thick coats)
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Post by Baz on Jun 23, 2009 5:41:14 GMT 1
'WAF' compliant ............... shame on you Bruno ..... I was practicing my hide the model through the window and under the bed, in the wardrobe, in sisters room etc from the age of 13 - MIS (mother indoctrination skills). ......... Success rate ................... about -30. But it did give me conciliator and excuse skills when dealing with my wife in the early years .............. ;D To the point where she (who of course must always be obeyed) even bought me the odd model or 2 ............... Good luck matie ..... Baz
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Post by stroker on Jun 24, 2009 6:20:13 GMT 1
Okay, what in the bloody hell does Burnish the tape mean Surfs Up... Lol.. I was tracking fine till I came across that liddle pearl....
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Post by nm on Jun 24, 2009 6:22:36 GMT 1
Okay, what in the bloody hell does Burnish the tape mean Surfs Up... Lol.. I was tracking fine till I came across that liddle pearl.... Think it means rub it down well with something so it sticks really firmly and the paint won't get underneath it. nm
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Post by popeye on Jun 27, 2009 0:52:19 GMT 1
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Post by nm on Jun 27, 2009 6:58:42 GMT 1
Neat.
nm
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