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Post by danny on Sept 18, 2008 13:59:54 GMT 1
Let me guess: 1. Not fixing it on a keel 2. building the deck support beams before planking Im not too worried
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Post by rem2007 on Sept 18, 2008 23:10:44 GMT 1
remember...you've been warned, looking good though mate. hows school? just sending the eldest off to university, ;D ;D ;D
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2008 0:42:33 GMT 1
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Post by Mark on Sept 19, 2008 4:54:15 GMT 1
It's a wise man who can learn from somebody else's mistakes
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Post by popeye on Sept 23, 2008 10:23:52 GMT 1
Dear Danny, glad you asked: 1: You're building it !! (days and months of frustration - especially waiting for the post, scraping glue off the hands, trying to separate fingers superglued together, trying to find a magnifying glass big enough to see some of the parts - I strongly recommend that you get a head band that contains a drop down magnifier that goes in front of the eyes, and, worst of all, having to give up the booze so that your hand are sufficiently steady to manoeuvre the microscopic parts into their correct position - just wait till you get to the mast !!!!!!
2: You're clearly using parts of the house that will incur the wrath of her indoors (glue and paint on tables, carpets and furniture, dust from the constant sanding down, the smell of the glues and paints, etc., etc., etc., etc., not to mention that "you are spending more time on that damned model than you are giving to your family !!" and "you can make yourself more useful fixing the washing machine/leaking tap/new shelving/making the bed/etc." - the addendum to this is also "if you're so good with your hands and tools why haven't you fixed the .......... yet?")
Having said that, it is also immensely satisfying to see such a superb model come together and overcoming the challenges that it brings, even she who must be obeyed (sometimes) may give you a sneaking admiration. Good luck and may the superglue release agent be with you.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2008 10:29:25 GMT 1
Nail varnish remover or acetone work the best on superglue.
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Post by danny on Sept 23, 2008 10:50:50 GMT 1
luckily I'm only 18 years old and still living with my parents, so I can just do nothing and let my dad do all the chores around the house ;D
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2008 12:57:00 GMT 1
luckily I'm only 18 years old and still living with my parents, so I can just do nothing and let my dad do all the chores around the house ;D LoL I had to help round the house at 18. Attenhut. Get that cabin of yours cleaned up. PRONTO!!!! Rofl. ;D ;D ;D
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Post by danny on Sept 23, 2008 16:32:21 GMT 1
Today I ordered the 3 motor drive set from markus, and the scale propellors, so I'm looking forward to get going with those What I have done on the bismarck today is relatively easy but in my opinion ( and in those of others) really important. I've started waterproofing the components by coating them with waterproof woodglue using an old ID-card.
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Post by rem2007 on Sept 23, 2008 22:42:42 GMT 1
not in our house!
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Post by Mark on Sept 24, 2008 3:49:27 GMT 1
Danny, You might find it easier (and cheaper!) to wait until you complete the planking and then varnish the inside of the hull. Alternatively you could use resin and glass tissue to coat the inside of the hull. That will give a really strong and 100% waterproof finish. I'm just varnishing the inside of my hull.
What glue are you using. The Evostick weatherproof glue that many of us are using is only water resistant, not waterproof, so would not be as good as varnish. It's fine for joins on the hull where the outside is painted, but not very good when actually immersed in water.
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Post by popeye on Sept 24, 2008 12:54:06 GMT 1
Dear Danny - Similar to others on waterproofing, I used a "finishing resin" to paint the inside of the boat once everything was built and I had fitted the propellor shafts and motors (as you need to drill holes in the hull to get the shaft through etc.). Finishing resin is a thin liquid, 2-part resin that can easily be put on with a paint brush, it has the consistency of a varnish before it sets and is usually workable (i.e. stays liquid and runny) for up to 30 minutes. It provides a thin, tough, waterproof coating to the inside, to which you can still glue things on. On the outside I used a single sheet of medium-weight fibreglass (as sold mainly for model aeroplane bodies), appropriately cut to shape and impregnated with the finishing resin to provide a very tough and waterproof outer coating to the hull (so it can better withstand knocks from other boats and the pond walls without losing its watertighness). Once applied and dried it is transparent (so you can still see the wood underneath) and it is a good base to take the acrylic paints. After painting, I also applied 3 layers of a good quality, external yacht varnish (I am a safety engineer so I believe in belt and braces on BOTH sets of trousers !!). See my photo site (click on the link below) for all the pictures of the build. I also now have my own build diary (Popeye's build) and will post useful bits there as well (but I will still keep my Flickr site up to date with all the detailed photos) www.flickr.com/photos/commander-popeye/
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2008 13:13:50 GMT 1
Good idea popeye. I've saved the information for later on in my build. Have a K.
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Post by danny on Jan 9, 2009 20:11:17 GMT 1
Currently we're at week 17 here in the netherlands, I expect weeks 18 thru 21 next tuesday. I thought I'd show you my progress so far, I've already glued on the deck beams even though we haven't been told to do so yet, but I thought it would be quicker and easier this way. ( note: I havent'glued the deck to the hull, just the decking to the removable thingy.... I'm not planning to do any caulking whatsoever, I think my hull is strong enough as it is. here goes:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2009 0:31:31 GMT 1
Hull is looking good, specially with the propellors on. Is that the Hatchette Titanic in the background.
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