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Post by pieterhb on May 27, 2010 12:28:11 GMT 1
Thanks Mike
My researcher brain always tries to figure and test things out. It is new discoveries that leads to progress in life.
If something does not work today, it might come in handy for something else in the future.
If I can get hold of it in SA, I will give it a go.
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Post by Mike B on May 27, 2010 13:08:39 GMT 1
As far as I know, "David's Isopon P38" is not available here, similarly with "Halfords" spray paints. "Premier" or "Luxor" flexible polyester filler are the common brands of body filler available at "Builder's Express".
I would be wary of using them for filling as they set harder than wood. Thus, when you sand back to the wood, the tendency is for the wood to sand away quicker than the filler, causing more hollows!
You must mix a filler that dries to the same hardness as the wood you are using. Varying the amount of PVA will do this according to the type of wood you are using.
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Post by pieterhb on May 27, 2010 13:38:50 GMT 1
Yes, Mike B, I think you are spot on. Thanks for the warning.
I think all of us are trying to smooth our ships with something that is waterproof, not to hard, not to soft, strong, durable, can be applied, sanded and painted easily, etc, etc. In other words the mixture must end up to be as close as possible to the specific wood you are using.
This may sound easy in practice, but all the products out there lacks one or more essential quality of what the builder wants.
That is probably why so many builders started to mix their own paste to smooth their ships.
The human mind's creativity never ends. I just love it!
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Post by grantj on May 27, 2010 20:42:23 GMT 1
Hi pieter Having just finished my Bismarck and just moving it around in the house has led me to thinking how glad I am not to have radio controlled it because sure as heck the car journey to the pond would surely rattle of some bits and not to mention the rigging. Hats off to those of you who did the radio control version ;D With refernce to the automotive fillers used in the UK, I use a product that is locally available called Feather Light and is available from Automotive paint suppliers. It is great to work with , hardens in about five minutes when you can slice off any excess with a Stanley knife and then cures fully within an hour or so and sands easily. I use it mainly for building up areas such as when fitting the resin bow and stern pieces mikeB thanks for your tips too - will certainly use them on the Victory and the Bounty  I use Aliphatic glue as against PVA Cold glue but should do the same job I would think. |
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Post by pieterhb on May 28, 2010 7:56:37 GMT 1
Hi Grantj
They say "the more the merrier" or something like that. Thanks for your tip.
I think with all the tips from the different members, the first time builders out there should have a lot of ideas, products by now, to get them going in the right direction when working with wood models.
That is the power of a good internet forum. Why struggle alone, if we can help each other within days, minutes or even seconds?
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Post by stonehart on Jun 8, 2010 6:18:15 GMT 1
A good product here in New Zealand is "Perma-fill" easy to work with and sands very much like the wood used for planking the bissy so you do not end up over sanding trying to get the filler smooth with the planking.
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Post by coenie on Jun 16, 2010 11:16:18 GMT 1
Hi Pieter, I took MikeB's tip and use the cold glue to mix with very fine wood dust I collected for free from a local furniture workshop. The mix can also be manipulated from a paste to watery. I used it to seal and fill up all over the wood areas with great success and it only cost me the glue.
For filling gaps inbetween the brass parts I'm using Humbroll model filler (little expensive) that I bought from a local model shop. The tube is now about half and I'm round about finish filling, I think.
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I use Aliphatic glue as against PVA Cold glue but should do the same job I would think.