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hull
Jul 25, 2008 23:41:20 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on Jul 25, 2008 23:41:20 GMT 1
Just for the record, have completed to your step 4, with the final hull top coat above the waterline to be added later when more fixings are on (about issue 160 at the present rate of progress!!!). I do not intend camouflaging the hull, but might add the deck swastikas later. My main deck is fully planked and had two coats of polyurethane varnish to protect it and to stop it getting dirty. When all the superstructure finally in place and the deck fittings added will give it at least two coats more. My superstructure is being painted in the finish top coats as I go along as I have already planked my decks and cannot spray the superstructure later as this will damage the decking.
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hull
Jul 26, 2008 13:38:44 GMT 1
Post by Baz on Jul 26, 2008 13:38:44 GMT 1
Just for the record, have completed to your step 4, with the final hull top coat above the waterline to be added later when more fixings are on (about issue 160 at the present rate of progress!!!). I do not intend camouflaging the hull, but might add the deck swastikas later. My main deck is fully planked and had two coats of polyurethane varnish to protect it and to stop it getting dirty. When all the superstructure finally in place and the deck fittings added will give it at least two coats more. My superstructure is being painted in the finish top coats as I go along as I have already planked my decks and cannot spray the superstructure later as this will damage the decking. Don I think I would like to fully paint my main superstructures in place on the hull before attempting the deck planking and then finally attaching the minor details. From what you have completed so far, do you think its feasible or ill advised ? And also, Is the above deck line grey (superstructure etc) lighter in colour than the hull ? Baz
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hull
Jul 26, 2008 16:32:14 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Jul 26, 2008 16:32:14 GMT 1
Hi Baz,
The only problem I can see is sanding the deck smooth with the superstructure all in place (if that was what you meant). Might work OK if the superstructure is only tacked together so you can pull it apart to do the decking.
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hull
Jul 26, 2008 23:51:04 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on Jul 26, 2008 23:51:04 GMT 1
If you are using the Hachette decks, then no problem, but if you follow mine with hand built decks, then these MUST be fitted first, fully sanded and the bases of the deck fittings made and levelled BEFORE fitting the brassware. Obviously, the brass must also be painted before fitting, else you will spray the nice clean decks as well! In my case, Hachette keep coming up with additional fittings to the brass bulkheads a long time after I thought that they were complete. In this case, I scrape off the paint to allow proper adhesion and then touch in the new part by hand, which seems to work quite well. Note that I am the type of builder who likes to do as much as I can myself, hence my hand made decks, etc, and one of the reasons I rapidly went off plastic kits in my youth, they did not reflect my personality!!!! I can guarantee that my finished Bismarck will not be the same as hundreds of others, but will have some unique features so that I can feel it is my model!!!
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hull
Jul 27, 2008 0:58:26 GMT 1
Post by Baz on Jul 27, 2008 0:58:26 GMT 1
Thanks for the reply Mark and Don
We are just about to start the brasswork down here, issue 49. I've also requested individual decking planks from the Oz supplier.
I was hoping I could get away with the job of spray painting the upper section without masking off the wooden sections. Just a thought
Baz
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hull
Jul 27, 2008 10:04:41 GMT 1
Post by wolfie on Jul 27, 2008 10:04:41 GMT 1
Good Morning from Rugby World Cup country.
Any tips how to sand the "step" in the hull to be a nice angle?.... or should it be at a 90 degree angle?
Wolfie
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hull
Jul 27, 2008 14:48:40 GMT 1
Post by markus on Jul 27, 2008 14:48:40 GMT 1
the angle is approx. 120 degrees, i used a blade of a stanley knife to create that angle.. pic shows the camouflage paint scheme, not finished yet
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hull
Jul 28, 2008 11:43:39 GMT 1
Post by Baz on Jul 28, 2008 11:43:39 GMT 1
Good Morning from Rugby World Cup country. Any tips how to sand the "step" in the hull to be a nice angle?.... or should it be at a 90 degree angle? Wolfie Watch it Wolfie......................I could handle being a expatriate K1w1 in South Africa, but after years of giving my friends and workmates heaps about the Wallabies, its very painful to watch a pathetic All Black team being slaughtered by what has for years been considered a lesser foe..... As for your question Go to this link in the forum Build the Bismarck Forum :: Building the model :: Build Diarys :: David's Bismarck First posting David gives you picture details of his step An excellent example Baz
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hull
Jul 30, 2008 3:50:25 GMT 1
Post by rod on Jul 30, 2008 3:50:25 GMT 1
Well this is off topic, but I just had to respond. As a patriot Australian, living in Australia, always giving heaps to kiwi mates regardless of the outcome of any Rugby match, I think the match played on Saturday probably reflects how most Australians thought their Rugby team should have been playing years ago. Now that we finally have a decent coach, you'll really see what the wallabies are capable of. Oh and thanks for letting us have him and leading us out of the Rugby wilderness. You'll never live that mistake down.... Back on topic: What are people using in Australia in place of that Glattifix stuff? Now that we're all approaching the completion of the hull, I can see I'll need something to give it a mirror like finish and I don't think wood putty is going to give me that. Any suggestions from my Australian bretheren? Rod
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hull
Jul 30, 2008 4:14:16 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Jul 30, 2008 4:14:16 GMT 1
Wood putty is a filler, whereas Glattifix is a sealer. You should be able to buy sanding sealer from a DIY shop or model shop. It's purpose is to seal the surface, making the hull water proof. It also fills in all the tiny little imprefections in the woods surface, so when you sand it back you end up with a perfectly smooth finish.
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hull
Jul 30, 2008 10:29:15 GMT 1
Post by Baz on Jul 30, 2008 10:29:15 GMT 1
Well this is off topic, but I just had to respond. As a patriot Australian, living in Australia, always giving heaps to kiwi mates regardless of the outcome of any Rugby match, I think the match played on Saturday probably reflects how most Australians thought their Rugby team should have been playing years ago. Now that we finally have a decent coach, you'll really see what the wallabies are capable of. Oh and thanks for letting us have him and leading us out of the Rugby wilderness. You'll never live that mistake down.... Back on topic: What are people using in Australia in place of that Glattifix stuff? Now that we're all approaching the completion of the hull, I can see I'll need something to give it a mirror like finish and I don't think wood putty is going to give me that. Any suggestions from my Australian bretheren? Rod Hi Rod Yes.....................Not happy Jan AB's will end up at the bottom of the table this year. I feel major civil strife over the horizon in NZ The peasants will revolt before the year is over and the head of the chief coach will be on top of a pole. As for an alternatve to Glattfix. I used good old 'Model aircraft DOPE' - a mere $15.00 for 500ml at your local model store (rogues) I think it is the same. 27% acetone, 38% xylene Mixes with talcum powder to make an excellent filler. Dries quickly, fills those small gaps in the grain. Just what the doctor ordered...... Baz
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hull
Jul 30, 2008 21:04:56 GMT 1
Post by ph on Jul 30, 2008 21:04:56 GMT 1
I'm not making me model to go on the pond to frighten the ducks,so should i get some of that Glattifix stuff to make me hull better.
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hull
Jul 30, 2008 21:58:55 GMT 1
Post by eric on Jul 30, 2008 21:58:55 GMT 1
Not vital I would think, Paul.
But it would harden the wood and make it less suseptable to soaking up moisture in the air.
Anybody agree?
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hull
Jul 30, 2008 22:48:48 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on Jul 30, 2008 22:48:48 GMT 1
I do not know if you have it in Australia, but I have used wood hardener on the planking on other models, it is designed to harden rotten wood on, for example, window frames, before filling with wood filler. It soaks into the timber and makes it very hard and waterproof, and much cheaper than Glatfix as only a small amount needed and the rest can be used for its original job!!! (paint on two or three coats, allowing to dry between coats, thne gently sand down). Inside the hull, I always use resin to coat it, but this leaves a rougher surface not really suitable for the outside, but impervious to oils, grease, etc likely to be found in the engine room!!
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hull
Jul 31, 2008 0:11:09 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Jul 31, 2008 0:11:09 GMT 1
I'm not making me model to go on the pond to frighten the ducks,so should i get some of that Glattifix stuff to make me hull better. I don't think I would bother. By the time you sand, fill, sand, prime, sand, fill, sand, prime, sand (repeat until you are satisfied with the finish) the hull shold be smooth as a baby's bottom. (but not as smelly ) That's what I did with my Titanic.
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