|
Post by poulw on Apr 25, 2008 23:53:51 GMT 1
When I use primer from a spray can, for some reason or other I always get a big blop of paint on the tip of my index finger where I push the nozzle. To avoid the cleaning and smell of turp afterwards, I started using a latex glove, but 1. My hand got very sweaty inside the glove 2. It costs a glove nearly every time So, now I just cut one finger off the glove to use on my index finger only. Works fine, and the glove lasts five times longer. ;D
|
|
|
Post by Mike B on Apr 26, 2008 20:42:26 GMT 1
Shake a liberal dose of talcum powder into the glove before you use it!
|
|
|
Post by nm on Apr 26, 2008 22:02:30 GMT 1
Do you know that talcum powder comes from powdered talcum rocks, quarried in the Pyrenees (and elsewhere). Crush it, add flavourings, stick it in a tin and put a price on it.
NM
|
|
|
Post by Daniel on Oct 31, 2008 18:25:54 GMT 1
I've given my rear superstructure a coat of primer (from a spray can of course) and it's worked fine, but in some areas it's gone all...wrinkly, is there any way of stopping this?
|
|
|
Post by eric on Oct 31, 2008 19:31:20 GMT 1
It could be wrinkling if you didn't clean off the brass first.
I always use white spirits to get off any residue there may be on the brass from the etching procces.
Also, a light sanding might help too, but if you've alrady put on the millions of tiny parts, that may be difficult.
Try not to spray on too thick a coat of paint, several thin layers are better than one thick one.
|
|
|
Post by Daniel on Oct 31, 2008 19:37:46 GMT 1
ok cheers eric i'll keep that in mind next time haha
|
|
|
Post by poulw on Feb 27, 2009 23:01:37 GMT 1
With my Canon P4200i printer, I can print on styrene sheets up to 0.5mm thick. This is very useful for scratch building, since I can then print templates directly on the sheet. However, the ink doesn't stick very well to plastic and is easily removed just by touching it. Normally not a big problem as the part can be cut holding the sheet outside the print until the last cut. For Richelieu, I need four small white signs 1.5mm high with the ship's name in golden. Again, this can be printed very easily on styrene, but my problem here is the durability of the print. Does anyone know where to buy a spray can of clear, low sheen, or semi gloss varnish - preferably in Australia PS: I am also thinking of spraying the whole model with low sheen varnish after it's finished.
|
|
|
Post by poulw on Feb 28, 2009 1:11:01 GMT 1
Problem solved Found a spray can of Wattyl Estapol satin (polyurethane based) clear varnish. Works a treat.
|
|
|
Post by Robert on Feb 28, 2009 11:19:46 GMT 1
Problem solved Found a spray can of Wattyl Estapol satin (polyurethane based) clear varnish. Works a treat. Poul, was about to mention this very thin semi gloss spray can used for charcoal drawings available at any artists' material retailers. Works fine on paper. Could it work on your styrene sheet, this is the question... But you've solved the problem apparently! Robert
|
|
|
Post by Baz on Mar 1, 2009 8:38:44 GMT 1
Problem solved Found a spray can of Wattyl Estapol satin (polyurethane based) clear varnish. Works a treat. Poul, was about to mention this very thin semi gloss spray can used for charcoal drawings available at any artists' material retailers. Works fine on paper. Could it work on your styrene sheet, this is the question... But you've solved the problem apparently! Robert Yes it does Robert Being a survey draftsman from way back, we used to spray letraset on plastic film to make it permanent. Didn't know they were still producing it It was a high quality product back in the eighties - with a price tag to match. Baz
|
|
|
Post by Robert on Mar 1, 2009 12:38:16 GMT 1
Hi Baz, nice to see you again my friend. Hope you'll keep away from fire and that it will remain in a distance... You're correct about Letraset; isn't that easy to find it nowadays, but charcoal drawings are still going around, that's for sure! Now, could they be two different quality spray cans, this, I cannot say... Take good care. Best, Robert
|
|