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Post by rem2007 on Aug 17, 2008 0:29:51 GMT 1
Hi JC,
bet you can't wait til the start of your season tomorrow.
couple of things, did you get your issues with hachette sorted yet?
the brass bits could use a coat of etch brass primer before painting, failing that a coat of what ever primer your going to use.
and I'm not sure i'd want to brush all these brass bits with the little tinlets from humbrol or revell. couple of reasons really, brush painting will lose the detail of the brass etched pieces as it can be too thick. it also will be very time consuming as well. I think I'd plan on an airbrush system if I were you. I have been researching a few and it looks like a fairly reasonable investment for a modeller of any experience. if you need help with speaking to hachette let me know.
rem
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Post by jcmanu on Aug 18, 2008 16:16:48 GMT 1
i received issues off hachette at last , believe it or not , i invested in a good air brush last year , and use it when ever i can ,most certanly i will be air brushing all i can on bissy, and keeping the brush for the tiny pieces, i agree with you about keeping most brass bits brass and not painting them, keep them nice and shiny, and the ship will look outstanding,are you keeping to the color scheme shown by armati ,or going your own way? john
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Post by afkmatrix on Nov 11, 2008 15:08:20 GMT 1
HI guys!!
Right as I have said been very busy, even though I still haven't moved into my new flat grrr!! And I am still reading the forum so I am not totally AWOL lol. So I have finally got around to painting the dreaded mast and I am very pleased with the result, go bless Iwata airbrushes!!!
Now I did make a post about applying some Varnish to the brass to fix the grey paint as I think it will get scratched etc. Mark suggested an Acrylic Varnish but I am not sure where to buy this from for use in my Iwata Airbrush? I looked on Airbrushes.com and they don't seem to have any - help!!
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Post by Mark on Nov 12, 2008 17:39:54 GMT 1
B&Q ? Homebase ? Focus ? I was thinking of the stuff that is sold for DIY decorating. Obviously it would need thinning for spraying. To be honest, I've never used it like so it would be worth trying out before using it onthe Bissy.
Alternatively, there are some ready to spray acrylic varnishes available. I got some the same time as I got some Vallejo paints. Just can't remember if it was an actual Vallejo product, or where I got it from. It's still en route from Korea so I can't have a look.......
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Post by poulw on Nov 12, 2008 22:23:26 GMT 1
Alternatively, you should also be able buy clear varnish on spray cans. I remember years ago we used this to protect Letraset setup.
Just a thought.
Personally, I will be trying to use thinned waterbased floor varnish from DIY when the time comes.
It is working with DIY waterbased interior paint, thinned 20-30% with Windex (spray gun test only at this stage), so why shouldn't it work with varnish as well.
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Post by stroker on Nov 13, 2008 11:48:09 GMT 1
Tamiya makes clear lacquer spray cans ts-80 flat clear....
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Post by popeye on Nov 14, 2008 10:40:36 GMT 1
I already put a posting on this in "Hints and Tips" - "Painting the Brass", and there are other replies on this. My answer was as follows:
2 possible products. Halfords clear lacquer in a spray can. I keep a can of this handy to cover any paint touch-ups on my car. Its very good and hard wearing and dries quickly but may be a bit to thick/heavy for the small size of the brassware, especially railings. You could try spraying it into a small container and then brushing it on lightly.
The other option is a spray can of PCB lacquer from (UK) Maplin (£3.99p). the blurb on it says:
Fast drying acrylic lacquer coating Acid and alkali resistant Multi-application Seals printed circuitry Use for over-lacquering of metal and paint work Ideal as a waterproof coating for maps and technical documents Supplied in a 200ml can
This sounds ideal, especially for spraying over acrylic paint. Again, it may be better to spray some into a container and paint it on, that way you have more control over the thickness (I do the same with the Halfords grey primer spray on the brassware).
I'm going to buy the Maplin lacquer myself and will try it on a small area that I painted for a trial (I won't be doing the main painting of any deck structures until the model is nearly complete and I know that I have got ALL the pieces to hand - thanks to Hachette staggering the various parts so that some months after you think something is finished a new part suddenly appears to be glued onto a nicely painted structure !!)
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Post by stroker on Jun 6, 2009 4:26:00 GMT 1
Howdy Doodily peeps, I am reaching the stage now where parts are being primed then having brass attached later. I was wondering if anyone has had trouble with superglue attaching and holding to the primer or undercoat and wether or not you have scratched or sanded away paint prior to attaching these add on parts. Would particularly like to know how attaching all the A frames and such for the prop shafts on the hull went, did that require to be scraped back for good adhesion? I notice that issue 140 is now available to peruse on the german hachette build site link on here. I have seen no indication of a Bismarck Nameplate or stand, apart from the bodgey temporary one in the earlier issue, or have i simply missed it while browsing those pages? Thanks, Steve
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Post by poulw on Jun 6, 2009 5:36:59 GMT 1
I was wondering if anyone has had trouble with superglue attaching and holding to the primer or undercoat and wether or not you have scratched or sanded away paint prior to attaching these add on parts. It is not a problem CA gluing a new part to a part already primed, it adheres perfectly. The problem is how well your primer adheres to the first one. If you break up the two parts, you will notice that the primer comes off, stuck to the superglue. On smooth surfaces like brass and styrene, the primer doesn't adhere all that well - the reason why a lot of people lightly sand those surfaces before priming and thereby end up with a more durable paint. Personally, if parts are exposed with the risk of rough handling, I always scratch the primer before gluing. Otherwise I am not all that fussy.
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Post by Baz on Jun 7, 2009 2:16:53 GMT 1
I was wondering if anyone has had trouble with superglue attaching and holding to the primer or undercoat and wether or not you have scratched or sanded away paint prior to attaching these add on parts. It is not a problem CA gluing a new part to a part already primed, it adheres perfectly. The problem is how well your primer adheres to the first one. If you break up the two parts, you will notice that the primer comes off, stuck to the superglue. On smooth surfaces like brass and styrene, the primer doesn't adhere all that well - the reason why a lot of people lightly sand those surfaces before priming and thereby end up with a more durable paint. Personally, if parts are exposed with the risk of rough handling, I always scratch the primer before gluing. Otherwise I am not all that fussy. Totally agree Pouwl I would recommend attaching bare surface to bare surface too. No matter what the glue Baz
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 7, 2009 5:37:06 GMT 1
I'll probaly have the entire ship built, before I paint any of it.
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Post by stroker on Jun 10, 2009 13:31:13 GMT 1
Cheers, thanks for that fellas, no idea on the nameplate though or stand even?
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Post by stroker on Jun 12, 2009 10:28:23 GMT 1
Okay, another question for all you Boffins on here, specially you Markus if you have your eyes on... How tricky is it exactly to do this cammo up through the superstructure, I have read about using the laser, will still come down to a steady hand though I guess?
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Post by Mark on Jun 12, 2009 12:50:57 GMT 1
I think the hardest part will be applying masking tape and getting a seal over the detail so that paint doesn't creep underneath. The marking could either be done my laser or ruler and pencil.
I wouldn't like to try and paint the lines by hand !
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Post by markus on Jun 12, 2009 18:14:35 GMT 1
painting the camo onto the superstructure is a really tough job... i would have messed it up so my camo ends at deck level markus
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