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Yamato
Dec 22, 2010 8:58:56 GMT 1
Post by nm on Dec 22, 2010 8:58:56 GMT 1
"Aeroplane" magazine, January 2011, page 105:
Photo of Yamato with two Nakajima Kate aircraft overflying.
nm
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Yamato
Dec 26, 2010 15:01:32 GMT 1
Post by viking on Dec 26, 2010 15:01:32 GMT 1
Christmas over for 1 more year spring is on the way and the lakes may un freeze around march at this temp so just stick to the work shop, shed or if her in doors lets you the table. Fixing the guns on the deck fixing them on to a static is not much of a prob but on a working model well they need to be reinforced I have drilled holes in the bottom and put in a bit of brass rod .This is then fixt in to a hole drilled in to deck so if knocked hope fully they stay on and not go to the bottom of the lake The pins will be cut down to just over deck thickness
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Yamato
Jan 3, 2011 0:42:18 GMT 1
Post by viking on Jan 3, 2011 0:42:18 GMT 1
Radar is one of them as with the guns on the deck this part is best reinforced with pins as they are very vulnerable to damage Once the paint work is touched up all will be well
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Yamato
Jan 4, 2011 10:29:55 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Jan 4, 2011 10:29:55 GMT 1
Pinning the parts is a good technique. Makes things a whole lot stronger.
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Yamato
Jan 12, 2011 22:52:58 GMT 1
Post by viking on Jan 12, 2011 22:52:58 GMT 1
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Yamato
Jan 27, 2011 4:20:52 GMT 1
Post by viking on Jan 27, 2011 4:20:52 GMT 1
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Yamato
Jan 27, 2011 12:21:07 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Jan 27, 2011 12:21:07 GMT 1
More good progress Viking. My favourite method for fixing cast metal to wood is to roughen the metal with rough sandpaper, then fix with Araldite Precision, with is the stuff that takes 24 hours to set. It possible (probably not with this part) I also drill a hole or two in the metal part, glue a bit of brass wire in to make a locating pin or two. Then drill matching holes in the wood. The pins really make it a lot stronger. Here's how I did it on the Titanic prop tubes. buildthetitanic.co.uk/038.htm
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Yamato
Jan 28, 2011 1:24:22 GMT 1
Post by viking on Jan 28, 2011 1:24:22 GMT 1
that is the way i do it to but the bow fairlead is that thin on chance of drilling to fix pins not that good but solderd pins on back of new one now i hope it is crash resistent
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Yamato
Feb 6, 2011 16:14:55 GMT 1
Post by viking on Feb 6, 2011 16:14:55 GMT 1
I have acquired a very sad looking USS MISSOURI she is around 4’ 6’’ long and has a beam of 6,1/2’’ and I an looking for plans to bring her back to full battle reedy condition if any one can help I would be most grateful. If I can get hold of the plans my post the progress on site will be a long term project. Sum of it is thire but not a lot have not got photos of her yet but will post sum later
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Yamato
Feb 23, 2011 2:37:33 GMT 1
Post by viking on Feb 23, 2011 2:37:33 GMT 1
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Yamato
Feb 25, 2011 2:02:35 GMT 1
Post by viking on Feb 25, 2011 2:02:35 GMT 1
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Yamato
Mar 4, 2011 0:07:30 GMT 1
Post by viking on Mar 4, 2011 0:07:30 GMT 1
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Yamato
Mar 9, 2011 23:37:13 GMT 1
Post by alanv on Mar 9, 2011 23:37:13 GMT 1
Might be to late now, but if your using normal solder then try and get yourself some solder paste. You can put a little on with a small stiff brush and than make sure everything is just right before a little dab with the iron. Hope this helps it has worked for me in the past. ;D
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