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Gaps
May 24, 2007 22:36:37 GMT 1
Post by ippy on May 24, 2007 22:36:37 GMT 1
I've completed the planking up to issue 12 and I've got some gaps between the planks. Nothing too major but enough to see through if you look at the right angle. Do you think this will matter?
Can these just bee filled? and if so what would you suggest to use.
Thanks Ian.
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Gaps
May 24, 2007 22:54:22 GMT 1
Post by southendnick on May 24, 2007 22:54:22 GMT 1
Had the same problem, my major head ache was a gap of about 5mm between two planks, used glazers silicone sealant in it at least I know its going to be water proff!
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Gaps
May 24, 2007 23:27:17 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on May 24, 2007 23:27:17 GMT 1
I normally coat the edges of the planks with the waterprrof glue, and force them tight to the one previously fixed by the use of the "brass" pins (left over from Titanic/Victory) these are removed when glue set. By driving the pins at an angle, they force the planks together make sure you use a pin on each frame though). Similary, I use wooden clothes pegs (plastic are too weak) to hold the plank edges inline with each other. This technique, many times used, minimises gaps between the planks, which should always be kept to a minimum. Any small gaps I used a wood filler on, but in this case we shall be fitting a second set of planks over the first (I think in about issues 30/31) , and this second set MUST be watertight! With my model, I intend coating the inside of the hull with resin as obtained from a car accessory shop and normally used with glass fibre. This will fill in any gaps and watertight the whole hull. Don
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Gaps
May 25, 2007 0:11:19 GMT 1
Post by Mark on May 25, 2007 0:11:19 GMT 1
Hi Ian,
I concur with everything that Don has said. I fill any small gaps with filler. I'd suggest wood filler as you need something that you can glue the second planks to. If the gap is big enough then I cut a small offcut of plank and glue this into the hole.
Don is absolutely right that the hull must be waterproof from the outside if you want your model to last.
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Gaps
May 25, 2007 10:58:24 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on May 25, 2007 10:58:24 GMT 1
I use metal clips to hold planks flat against each other. Also wooden clothes pegs do the same job, although not as strong. Note that small gaps are no real problem on the first planking, what matters is that the hull is smooth and even, as the finish here has a strong effect on the second coat. Ideally, the first set of planks need to be near perfect! If planks are hard to force into a curve (should not really happen on this hull) then the plank needs to be soaked in hot water for 20 mins or so, then pinned into place while bendy and left to dry before attempting to use a water based glue such as PVA. Stressed planks on a hull are not a good idea! On my Granado, the second planking was carried out by soaking the planking in hot water and then using superglue while still wet. note that this means very accurate placing of the plank, as the glue when wet sets instantly, and very strongly. Also beware of making your fingers a part of the hull! I am interested to see what solutions we have on the Bismarck for the second coat, as I do not fancy using superglue on a model over 4 ft long! (note try and avoid pin holes in the second coat, the first coat does not matter as easily filled in and hidden in any case). Don
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Gaps
May 25, 2007 11:19:04 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on May 25, 2007 11:19:04 GMT 1
If this works, you can see my model with the clips and pegs used as described above. Don
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Gaps
May 25, 2007 14:22:49 GMT 1
Post by paulhbell on May 25, 2007 14:22:49 GMT 1
Good tip about using resin, Swanrail. Last one I did like this I coated the inside with Ronseal quick drying decking varnish. It's waterproof and last's 10 years (says it on the tin). Sorry about the advert.
Sorry guys, but I have not had a problem with gaps on the planking. Going together really well at the moment.
Can someone give me ideas how to post build photos. I've posted photo's in other forums, by uploading them to the forum. Do I need a host to show photo's on here.
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Gaps
May 25, 2007 14:27:56 GMT 1
Post by Mark on May 25, 2007 14:27:56 GMT 1
Hi Paul,
This forum doesn't support attachments, so you need to upload the photos to a host like Photobucket or image shack. The image host should give you a link you can just copy and paste. Use the insert image button and it will give you image place holder. Just paste the link between the two sets of square brackets.
Have a play in the testing board to see how it works.
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Gaps
May 25, 2007 14:34:45 GMT 1
Post by paulhbell on May 25, 2007 14:34:45 GMT 1
Ok thanks. Will give it a go later.
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Gaps
May 26, 2007 11:38:06 GMT 1
Post by ippy on May 26, 2007 11:38:06 GMT 1
Thanks for your replies
I hadn't been gluing the edges, I'll do this on the rest.
Can anyone suggest what filler to use as there are lots of wood fillers.
Cheers Ian
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Gaps
May 26, 2007 15:36:55 GMT 1
Post by markus on May 26, 2007 15:36:55 GMT 1
don't worry about small gaps when planking the first layer. if the second layer is accurate, there's no need to use any filler..
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Gaps
Jun 20, 2007 10:29:14 GMT 1
Post by STEVESPIDERMAN on Jun 20, 2007 10:29:14 GMT 1
HI THIS IS STEVE HERE SO WHERE DID U GET THE COLOUR PINS FROM SO WHERE DID U BUY THAT FROM AND CAN U KINDLY GIVE THE name OF THE SHOPS OR ANY WEBSITES OR ?? cos i used map pins from whsmith but it annoy me when i tried to pin it down with top ball and it hurts my thumb end!!!!!!!! email me spidermanmeteors@yahoo.co.uk
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Gaps
Jun 20, 2007 10:33:51 GMT 1
Post by Achtung!! on Jun 20, 2007 10:33:51 GMT 1
Think they are easier to work with than the braass pins reused from the Titanic build.
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Gaps
Jun 20, 2007 12:43:41 GMT 1
Post by Martin on Jun 20, 2007 12:43:41 GMT 1
re using pins at the moment im using dressmaking pins and inserting with a set of pliers,
One question is it best to remove the pins when the glue is complety dry or remove when the glue has set just enough to hold in place, im worried that when i remove the pins the planking will come away as well.
Fishtank
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Gaps
Jun 20, 2007 13:47:50 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Jun 20, 2007 13:47:50 GMT 1
Wait until the glue is completely dry, otherwise the plank is likely to come away. Use new clean pins. If they are reluctant to come out, just give them a twist with a pair of pliers and they will come unstuck.
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