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Gaps
Jun 20, 2007 14:54:51 GMT 1
Post by markus on Jun 20, 2007 14:54:51 GMT 1
HI THIS IS STEVE HERE SO WHERE DID U GET THE COLOUR PINS FROM SO WHERE DID U BUY THAT FROM AND CAN U KINDLY GIVE THE name OF THE SHOPS OR ANY WEBSITES OR ?? cos i used map pins from whsmith but it annoy me when i tried to pin it down with top ball and it hurts my thumb end!!!!!!!! email me spidermanmeteors@yahoo.co.uk i bought 2 packs of these: www.hobbydirekt.de/product_info.php?language=de&products_id=27187don't know if they also deliver to uk.... markus
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Gaps
Jun 20, 2007 22:49:33 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on Jun 20, 2007 22:49:33 GMT 1
I used map pins on both the titanic and the Victory, but found the planking on this one a bit hard so used brass pins from the titanic instead. The map pins are identical to markus's, but can be easily bought from a good stationers such as WH Smith. Mine were bought in three different sizes, small ones with heads as shown, middle and large ones with octagonal heads used for heavier duty. Think they came in packs of 50. Method_ push in hard at a slight angle to force the plank up against its predecessor, when glue completley dry (I allow a min of 12 hours with fast setting wood glue) then simply twist out. Not advisable to pull out else head might come off! (yes, it has happened to me!).
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Gaps
Jun 21, 2007 12:36:11 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on Jun 21, 2007 12:36:11 GMT 1
I have now found my box of map pins, shown here. There are 25 of the pins (the mostly green, white, yellow and blue ones in the picture, other ones from other jobs). They cost 79p for 25 from my local stationer. ps ignore the £3.50, that was for something else!
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Gaps
Jun 21, 2007 13:59:44 GMT 1
Post by markus on Jun 21, 2007 13:59:44 GMT 1
I have now found my box of map pins, shown here. There are 25 of the pins (the mostly green, white, yellow and blue ones in the picture, other ones from other jobs). They cost 79p for 25 from my local stationer. ps ignore the £3.50, that was for something else! i used exactly the same pins for my first ship. due to the larger diameter of those needles i had hundreds of holes to fill afterwards. these special modelbuilding needles i used leave no holes in the planks so the bismarck's hull needed no filler at all, except for the gaps between hull and the resin parts. these gaps were filled by 2-component-epoxi with which i also glued the resin parts in one thing i noticed was that epoxi did't get so hard when gluing resin parts. (maybe because both materials are similar ) i solved this problem by using 60% hardener / 40% resin instead of 50% / 50% markus
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Gaps
Jun 21, 2007 17:42:01 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Jun 21, 2007 17:42:01 GMT 1
Hi Markus, Did you use a quick setting epoxy (20 minute type) or a slow setting (24 hour type). I have found that slow setting Araldite stickes very well and sets rock hard. The quick setting types seem to stay flexible and doesn't stick anywhere near as strongly, at least with the ones I've tried.
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Gaps
Jun 21, 2007 20:30:40 GMT 1
Post by rushzombie on Jun 21, 2007 20:30:40 GMT 1
iused a couple of methods and go no gaps at all,fist off the first hull planks were ok till you get down to more of a curve ,for tis i used white pva glue on each side of the planking then used super glue aswell on the frame to allow instant contact then used the small plastic grips to keep it all tight together left on til dry then did opposite side exactly the same ,gets a bit tight with the grips though when your getting near the keel but has worked perfect for me
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Gaps
Jun 21, 2007 20:58:19 GMT 1
Post by swanrail on Jun 21, 2007 20:58:19 GMT 1
Ref my pins (earlier), which I used on other models. I used a tube of waterproof wood filler (bought from B&Q), very easy, nice to handle and safe to handle, also not too hard to rub down unlike some fillers. Recently, I now use the pins as per titanic as shown in my earlier photos, together with a small pin hammer. These are driven in halfway, and at an angle to force the plank against the previous one, such that the wood glue on the edge is forced out and seals the joint, even on curvy bits. When dry (at least 12 hours) remove pins with pliers, leaving a very small hole, which can be left if desired as next planking coat will cover over and wood glue will seal.
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Gaps
Jun 22, 2007 10:06:41 GMT 1
Post by markcarper on Jun 22, 2007 10:06:41 GMT 1
got my pins from BOYES, thats a shop up here in the north, if you got one near you they will have them.
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Gaps
Jun 27, 2007 12:45:16 GMT 1
Post by rushzombie on Jun 27, 2007 12:45:16 GMT 1
ive just noticed that on the part where part d the prop shaft assembly sits on your model that you have a hole in the hull ,which i take it it for the centre prop but mine doesnt have this ,am i guessing right in saying you have done this to make the centre prop a working prop instead of just for show
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Gaps
Jun 27, 2007 14:34:37 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Jun 27, 2007 14:34:37 GMT 1
ive just noticed that on the part where part d the prop shaft assembly sits on your model that you have a hole in the hull ,which i take it it for the centre prop but mine doesnt have this ,am i guessing right in saying you have done this to make the centre prop a working prop instead of just for show If you follow the Amati plan, the centre prop is static regardless of where the model is r/c or just a display piece. Some people have decided to make this a working prop, which requires some modification, including drilling out a hole for the prop shaft. Making the centre prop is quite a major mod, probably not recommended for beginners. Personally I shall r/c the model, but will stick to the Amati/Hachette motors & props. My centre prop will be a dummy.
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