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Post by Smackmback on Nov 29, 2007 15:18:19 GMT 1
Markus, What type of wood did you use......Lime? or other? Would lime go by another name in other country What would be good substitute Love that size 5/ 1.5/ 1200 Hull 8/ 2/ 1200 range above recess got to search to see if here......I want to use long planks If last resort could I get you to supply long planks. I will be getting r/c equipment from you soon for three and two motor set ups. Send to Australia. Regards Rob Shaw
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Post by Mike B on Nov 29, 2007 16:40:01 GMT 1
Guys, On the planking subject again......Don't you think that some of the problems would simply disappear with the use of long planks. ROB Hi Rob, read the following thread and see if it is of any interest? Building the model :: Hints & Tips :: Full length planks Mike B
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Post by markus on Nov 29, 2007 18:50:53 GMT 1
Markus, What type of wood did you use......Lime? or other? Would lime go by another name in other country What would be good substitute Love that size 5/ 1.5/ 1200 Hull 8/ 2/ 1200 range above recess got to search to see if here......I want to use long planks If last resort could I get you to supply long planks. I will be getting r/c equipment from you soon for three and two motor set ups. Send to Australia. Regards Rob Shaw i used maple wood because it's not as soft as amati's planks, but i think other types of wood are suitable, too i could help at last resort, but please note that transfer of a huge (long) parcel to australia is a bit expensive. this would be the prices: set of planks (50 pcs. 5/1,5/1200mm + 10 pcs. 8/2/1200mm) 60 euro shipping them to australia (in full length) 40 euro, 10 euro off when ordering a drive set cheers markus
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Post by Smackmback on Nov 29, 2007 22:50:25 GMT 1
Thank you very much for that Markus, that is exactly what I needed to know. I will continue with my little sorty to find timber here. But if all else fails, I will get back to you to send stuff.
Like I said I have a couple and Dad (79) is building one also. He started bit before me and he is not fiddling in any way. He is doing 2 motors. He is on the dying throws of planking and going really well. I have plenty of time, so I am be fussy with the Hull rib setup and every non glue surface will a soaking coat of resin and a few more supports. Will talk soon many many thanks.....ROB
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Post by Smackmback on Nov 29, 2007 23:10:03 GMT 1
MikeB, Thanks mate, now I remember seeing that once before. I didn't particularly want to join as to me it always interupts the flex of the timber, which is exactly what we are trying to maximise here. Done in the right spot it probably might not matter but silly me if you can customise it I will. It comes back to the weekly thing, we are behind you heaps and we have the great benefit of your collective experience. I am just looking at the method that would happen if it was scratch built rather than weekly, such as I laid the full keel plate and am ribbing SQUARE on the line. So far it's working beautifully ...don't say it....time will tell. Anyway I know you all would be pretty sick of seeing where you have already been but as soon as finish third motor keel excavations i will post pictures just to prove I'm real. I really want to do long planks and am wondering about doing from keel up reverse direction like for real. There is another question........ Anyone thought of doing the planking from the keel up with long planks? ? I have two boats so if a complete disaster strikes I suppose there would be an expensive sinking to Davy Jones locker or a Viking fire burial at sea. ROB
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Post by eric on Nov 30, 2007 0:12:55 GMT 1
Rob, I would strongly caution you against planking from the bottom up. I know it is the traditional method on a real ship, but if you did so it would make it very hard for you to create the precise straight line along the top of the armour belt. This is the starting point on Bismarck for good reason. (Long planks are not really needed for the first layer, but usefull for the second layer, though not vital.)
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Post by Mark on Nov 30, 2007 4:21:56 GMT 1
I'll second Eric's advice. It makes sense to plank from the top down on this one.
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Post by Smackmback on Dec 1, 2007 0:12:21 GMT 1
Thanks guys, Point taken .....good advice. I do how ever liked what I was studying on the german site regarding long planks, it is really cool. The curves look just that bit sexier. if you know what I mean. Also they attacked the bow section a little different. Got to get translated but it is very explicit in the photos. I am also intending to trim the decking so I will study that closer. Thats another reason why we are so lucky having you guys travelling in front ......so you can pull us up when we have a little brain fade or get too ambitious. I will stick that original idea where the sun don't shine. Thanks
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Post by Greg on Dec 1, 2007 0:40:17 GMT 1
I will continue with my little sorty to find timber here. Hi Rob, If your still having problems finding lime wood in Oz try this place, www.modelshipyard.com.au/products.asp?id=136Don't think they have 1200mm lengths, 950mm seems to be the longest. Have used their silver ash before and reckon its good to work with but if you want something harder they do have Tasmanian cherry which is a really hard wood. Greg.
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Post by Smackmback on Dec 1, 2007 13:13:58 GMT 1
Thanks greg, Yeh, I cant find longer than 1 metre. No lime or maple....still looking...But that site showed how they padded out the ribs either side of the centre rib and used metre planks and bits where the over lap happened etc etc. It was very well done so I think about that and probably ordering a truck load through Marcus cos I got 2. My problem is not knowing exactly what compares to lime when i cant get anything close enough to compare on the spot at the time. Even the big ( or once upon a time ) stores that used to have so much building supplies, now have slim pickings on stock and limited access to variety. It really is a case of seriously just purchasing from Old Mother England.
ROB ps I will check shipyard
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Post by Smackmback on Dec 1, 2007 13:25:29 GMT 1
Greg, Forget all that ......you blood needs bottling......you're a bloody marvel thanks mate. Limewood at 950 mm is just fine if i follow the german web site and pad out the ribs. One final question guys, one and all.....pros and cons for 1.5 x 5mm as opposed to 1.5 x.6mm
Spit it out guys what do you reckcon. ROB
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Post by markus on Dec 1, 2007 15:53:08 GMT 1
One final question guys, one and all.....pros and cons for 1.5 x 5mm as opposed to 1.5 x.6mm Spit it out guys what do you reckcon. ROB i think there's no pro for the 1,5/6 planks 1,5/5 planks have the following advantages: 1. easier to bend (important for bow/stern section) 2. give a smoother curve (between the bottom and the sides) 3. overlaps the joints from the 1st layer (done with planks in 6mm width) markus
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Post by Greg on Dec 2, 2007 4:51:50 GMT 1
Greg, Limewood at 950 mm is just fine if i follow the german web site and pad out the ribs. One final question guys, one and all.....pros and cons for 1.5 x 5mm as opposed to 1.5 x.6mm Spit it out guys what do you reckcon. ROB Rob, Not quite sure what you mean by "pad out the ribs" but I if I were you I wouldn't touch the ribs other than when fairing the hull in preparation for the first planking. The rib shape is absolutely vital in order to get the correct hull shape. Realise that you may mean something completely different to what I'm imagining. One trick which I've used a few times myself is to put balsa filler blocks between the ribs so that the blocks sit just proud of the outer edge of the rib. Then when you are fairing the hull these filler blocks are sanded down so that they are flush with the ribs. This gives the effect of a solid hull and makes attaching and smoothing the planks easier. Have to admit the other bit of your message has also confused me (not hard to do mind you). The "pros and cons of 1.5 x 5mm as opposed to 1.5 x .6mm". As far as I know theres no such thing as 1.5 x .6mm unless of course you get some 3 x .6mm planks and split them yourself. In general 1.5 x 5mm & 1.5 x 6mm planks are for the first layer of planking only. There are single planked models available but they normally use planks which are 2mm thick. The need to do a near perfect job of the planking with single planked models means I'll never be purchasing one. Second layer planks are usually 5 x .6mm or 6 x .6mm. These planks are much easier to bend and shape to suit your needs but are only good for the 2nd layer. Hope this helps. Greg.
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Post by Smackmback on Dec 2, 2007 5:30:03 GMT 1
Sorry Greg, .6 is not real it is SIX.....my finger screwed up typing. What I meant was 5mm wide on the first layer bacause of 950mm long lenghts and like markus says follow contours better. Yes I screwed with your head ....I meant just like you did by really widening the contact area for plank ends and overlapping. .......sorry Then i was considering splitting the bow planks for the first four sections of ribs from bow back. The curverture looked smoother. I am seriously considering the long 950........ plus splitting my sixes into threes(3) for bow.
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Post by Smackmback on Dec 2, 2007 5:42:23 GMT 1
MARKUS, Thanks for that, but I am a little confused over point 3. I am considering first layer to be in 1.5x5x950mm and not using the short pieces from the kit except for the bow first four sections and split into 3mm wide instead of six mm supplied. Lets explore further , because I dont know, so what would be the effect if I used thicker 2mm........2x3 2x4 2x5 .......... ?? If there is a different affect which is entertainable say so otherwise tell me to shutup and don't bother going there. I say that so you dont think...oh what a dickhead...don't be politically correct at any time just say what is, ok? I am also asking these questions cos dad just finished his hull except for six small pieces and he didn't glue edges of planks and he is going to have to seal the inside of the hull as well as the out side cos there is gaps and movement. Just coverying all options Kind regards to you and all ROB
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