Post by swanrail on Apr 20, 2008 14:58:56 GMT 1
In issue 60 we got the first of the Hachette decks. They look quite good, but Marcus found he had to be careful as the printed ink can run.
I preferred to plank my decks with "real" wood, but this is quite hard to do, very time consuming and the worst part is the setting out.
Another disadvantage of fixed decking is that all the brass parts need to be painted before fixing, else the deck would be ruined.
Hachette have overcome this problem by attaching the brass parts starting with issue 60, but unpainted. They specifically warn not to glue down their decks at this point, for reasons stated.
A good solution to the problem is to carry out the Hachette instructions ref the brass parts, and painting in situ at a later date, but to build the proper decks seperately.
To do this easily:
1. Make sure that the deck received from Hachette fits exactly, as per their instructions.
2. Using 1 by 1mm, 2 by 1mm strip and a 1mm sheet, carryout the following:
Glue the margin planks directly onto the Hachette deck, following the printed lines exactly.
3. glue directly onto the base the square parts cut from the 1mm sheet (this is where the ventilators, etc will go later).
4. Trace the curved parts onto tracing paper and use this as a template to cut out of the 1mm sheet.
5. Round holes are best done by drilling out the template, gluing over the deck planks, then re drill from the wrong side. After which fill with wood filler.
6. to plank, glue down the 1mm strips over the deck markings. Hint leave the odd pieces at the sides till last, and then either cut very carefully to fit, or use wood filler for ease.
7. When deck is thoroughly dry (at least 24 hours after finishing) then sand down level.
8. Turn over, and with a sander, carefully sand away ALL of the original Hachette deck, you should now have a correctly made real planked deck. But at this stage, treat the new deck carefully, it will be very fragile until glued down. It is important to seal the new deck, top surface, with a matt finish polyurethane clear varnish to protect it. (do this before sanding back).
Hint make sure tha you build the decks on a perfectly flat hard surface, so that it does not warp in the building process.
You now have a deck which will look good and can be fitted at the correct stage as recommended by Hachette.
I preferred to plank my decks with "real" wood, but this is quite hard to do, very time consuming and the worst part is the setting out.
Another disadvantage of fixed decking is that all the brass parts need to be painted before fixing, else the deck would be ruined.
Hachette have overcome this problem by attaching the brass parts starting with issue 60, but unpainted. They specifically warn not to glue down their decks at this point, for reasons stated.
A good solution to the problem is to carry out the Hachette instructions ref the brass parts, and painting in situ at a later date, but to build the proper decks seperately.
To do this easily:
1. Make sure that the deck received from Hachette fits exactly, as per their instructions.
2. Using 1 by 1mm, 2 by 1mm strip and a 1mm sheet, carryout the following:
Glue the margin planks directly onto the Hachette deck, following the printed lines exactly.
3. glue directly onto the base the square parts cut from the 1mm sheet (this is where the ventilators, etc will go later).
4. Trace the curved parts onto tracing paper and use this as a template to cut out of the 1mm sheet.
5. Round holes are best done by drilling out the template, gluing over the deck planks, then re drill from the wrong side. After which fill with wood filler.
6. to plank, glue down the 1mm strips over the deck markings. Hint leave the odd pieces at the sides till last, and then either cut very carefully to fit, or use wood filler for ease.
7. When deck is thoroughly dry (at least 24 hours after finishing) then sand down level.
8. Turn over, and with a sander, carefully sand away ALL of the original Hachette deck, you should now have a correctly made real planked deck. But at this stage, treat the new deck carefully, it will be very fragile until glued down. It is important to seal the new deck, top surface, with a matt finish polyurethane clear varnish to protect it. (do this before sanding back).
Hint make sure tha you build the decks on a perfectly flat hard surface, so that it does not warp in the building process.
You now have a deck which will look good and can be fitted at the correct stage as recommended by Hachette.