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Post by borryman on Jun 23, 2008 10:38:49 GMT 1
Are we expected to remove the Centre Deck every time we want to switch the Receiver on and off, using presumably the integral switch attached to the Speed Controller. I cannot see any alternative, unless I modify this switch using the switch harness supplied with the Transmitter (which I presume is superfluous), enabling me to have the switch on the upper deck somewhere.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2008 10:59:57 GMT 1
Think you would be better off getting a waterproof switch if your going to move it to the upper deck. I have my entire deck in 1 piece, excpet for the part over the resin bit.
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Post by markus on Jun 23, 2008 11:54:08 GMT 1
i simply connected the esc's on/off wires to the output contacts of a small relay. (replaces the esc's on/off switches) this relay will be switched on/off by a reed contact (magnetic triggered switch) in the funnel or somewhere else. all i have to do is place a small magnet near that reed contact to switch the ship's electronics on. removing that magnet immediately switches electronics off..
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Post by Mark on Jun 23, 2008 13:23:02 GMT 1
...but make sure the magnet can't fall off accidentally. You won't half look silly if it falls off in the middle of the pond
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Post by markus on Jun 23, 2008 13:45:06 GMT 1
...but make sure the magnet can't fall off accidentally. You won't half look silly if it falls off in the middle of the pond LOL i will definetly make sure the magnet can't fall off - don't want to jump into the water for a rescue.... ;D markus
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Post by borryman on Jul 9, 2008 21:37:26 GMT 1
Can anyone tell me whether it is absolutely necessary to switch off the receiver switch as well as the Transmitter switch after every session.
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Post by Model Boat Mayhem on Jul 10, 2008 10:12:37 GMT 1
Yes, for several reasons:
1. All your boat's radio gear will remain on and active. 2. You will drain your receiver batteries ( main battery if using BEC). 3. RC radio doesn't go into "standby" when you turn off your Tx, it just hunts for any signal and just sits there twitching!
Some clever modelers disguise the switches under deck fittings, eg. twisting an AA gun isolates the RC battery, another AA gun disconnects the main battery ....... I've even seen two metal bollards used for the main battery charging points!
Having said that, the main battery should also be disconnected too, especially when charging the main battery! Most modelers remove the main battery when charging for safety purposes and to prevent damage from leaks, heat or gases!
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Post by popeye on Jul 18, 2008 0:16:14 GMT 1
Dear Borryman
I cut the wire between the control switch and the the speed controller and inserted a 2.5mm socket and plug (available from Maplins and used to connect low voltage power supply lines), which allows the speed controller to be removed without having to "dewire" it. I then fitted a microswitch instead of the supplied control switch. The microswitch will then be fitted through the fixed/non-removable front deck with a small waterproof covering (it looks like a miniature durex that screws over the switch handle). I can then switch the receiver on and off without removing the decks. As a matter of interest, where the rear deck screws into position, I fitted a small brass block with an m4 tapped hole in it to the frame and use stainless steel countersunk screws to hold the deck on. I have now glued a cone shaped piece of copper tube in the deck through which the screws go and stops wear and tear on the wood deck everytime the deck is removed. I will post the pictures of this and the fibreglassing and painting of the hull on my Flickr site very shortly.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2008 0:40:01 GMT 1
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Post by popeye on Jul 18, 2008 0:43:24 GMT 1
All solved with sacrificial anodes !! Pictures of the boat with hull fibreglassed and painted, electrics etc will be posted on my Flickr site very shortly (it will take me about an hour) at www.flickr.com/photos/commander-popeye/[/img]
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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2008 1:08:01 GMT 1
Ahh ok. Had forgotten about them things - LoL Think they would be a good idea for anyone putting their Bissy in the water.
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Post by popeye on Jul 18, 2008 3:11:30 GMT 1
Pictures now posted - see set dated 3 July 08
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Post by Mark on Jul 18, 2008 5:18:53 GMT 1
Sacraficial anodes are commonly used on real ships, which are in salt water 24/7. They are used to protect the hull, prop, and ballast tanks mainly. I.e. Bits that are subject ot constant or long term immersion. They are probably a bit unnecessary for a model that spends a couple of hours a week in fresh water.
Popeye is talking about a deck fitting which is not immersed in water. A simply smear of vasaline or similar will stop any corrosion there.
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Post by nm on Jul 18, 2008 6:26:28 GMT 1
Sacrificial anodes - as seen on the rudders of the real Bismarck?
NM
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Post by Mark on Jul 18, 2008 6:59:14 GMT 1
Indeed !!!! Well spotted
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