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Post by poulw on Aug 5, 2008 3:40:45 GMT 1
There has been a few discussions about the colour of the deck, and the consensus seem to be that beeing a worn teak deck, the colour should be slightly greyish. Here is a pic of one of my decks after the first layer of waterbased floor varnish. By default/ accident it actually has a greyish colour. It is made from lime veneer (from Model Dockyard) and the original colour can be seen in the circular cut-out for the turret (a piece of leftover - not varnished). The reason for the grey colour is that I painted the back of the veneer mat black (cheap spraycan from an auto supplier). During the sanding, I noticed that particles from the caulking were rubbed into the planks to give them the greyish colour(commented by some forum members as the colour they were looking for), but I thought that it would reverse to the normal yellowish colour after fine sanding and varnish. It didn't. So I am actually quite pleased with the result. For all of you who have already finished your planked decks, this information is unfortunately a bit late - sorry.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2008 3:43:06 GMT 1
Nice looking deck, think thats what I'll try and do for mine.
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Post by poulw on Aug 5, 2008 4:16:48 GMT 1
Hi Sky,
Bought the spraycan at "Supercheap Auto" labelled "Australian Export Paint - Matt Black" for $3.
Good luck with your decks.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2008 4:27:35 GMT 1
Thanks poulw. Have some Karma.
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Post by Achtung!! on Aug 5, 2008 8:23:54 GMT 1
Speaking of decking - I am about to have a go with making my own deck pieces with the bits of wood sent to me by Hachette( as mentioned in a previous thread.
Now I have photocopied the laser printed deck pieces and I'm going to use the photo copies to stick the pieces onto. Is this a good idea as I have got a clue how else to do it.
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Post by swanrail on Aug 5, 2008 10:39:43 GMT 1
Hi Achtung. I actually built my "real" decks directly onto the hull timber, but used the Hachette decks as a template to cut in the deck parts supporting vents, etc. For a beginner, building onto a paper photo copy first might be easier, when finished, sand smooth on top and sand off paper back (else might be too thick, needs to be about 0.5 to 0.75mm total thickness). Suggest varnishing before fixing down so as to give it more strength. My decks were rubbed down and as poulw found some of the caulking rubbed into the deck giving it a slighlty grey colour. In my case, I used an acrylic black paint for the caulking, and this did not sink in so much, so some yellow was left (see my pictures in "Update 10th. April"page 1 in my section of the forum.) I have given my decks one coat of polyurethane varnish to keep clean, and will add more later when the decks are finished with. This has aged with time to darken the deck further to my pictures above. As the real ship had her decks down for some time (about 2 years??) while being built, they would have got very scruffy and had to be constantly holystoned to keep clean,. This turns the teak a greyish colour in no time at all. I served on a brand new tanker from Belfast shipyard, and within a few week of commisioning the teak decks were definitely grey!!! So poulw has got it right!!!!!(worth a karma to him!)
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Post by afkmatrix on Aug 5, 2008 12:43:05 GMT 1
Well I have used a scanned copy of the printed decks from Hachette, I then printed these and have actually stuck them down on the superstructure (see my diary for pictures). It has worked out great and as I have not attached the brasswork this will hide the small strip of paper you can see when viewed side on. This has also enabled me to actually cut the 1mm strips of wood I have so you actually have the plank joins for real, where as Swanrail has used a knife to create the joins (correct me if this is wrong swanrail!!).
If you have a look tonight I will add some more pics of my decking as I have finally competed one of the decks, just have a ton of sanding to do.
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Post by david on Aug 5, 2008 22:48:13 GMT 1
Hi Poulw, Your deck looks terrific! I think that tiny particles of caulking do migrate to the rest of the planking giving the slightly grey appearance, but I suspect that it's also something of an optical illusion going on because the wider margin planks often look lighter in colour. To try to counter this I made my margin planks from slightly darker wood but think I've only partially succeeded. Interesting to read Don's experience with real decks, I had expected that the 'holystoning' to slightly restore the colour, apparently not so! David
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Post by poulw on Aug 6, 2008 9:10:26 GMT 1
David,
Using a magnifying glass, I can see it is not an optical illusion.
Regarding the margin planks, I think it has to do with the direction you sand, and how much you sand off the deck.
Direction: If your margin plank is perpendicular to your deck planks, you carry a lot of the caulking onto/into it, but if it is in the same direction, you only carry very little (at least, when I came down to the level of the margin planks, I mainly sanded in the direction of the deck planks).
Thickness: My margin planks were 1mm thick, and the deck planks were sanded from 1.5mm down to 1mm, ie. I sanded a lot on the planks, but actually didn't sand very much on the margin planks at all, so only very few particles were "rubbed" onto/into them.
Hope this gives some sort of explanation.
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