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Post by Mark on Jan 18, 2010 13:13:39 GMT 1
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Post by morrigan on Jan 29, 2010 4:35:35 GMT 1
A large box with a small bubble wrapped bundle of servos rattling around in the bottom has just arrived on the doorstep, thanks Walkera! There was slight change in plan, rather than the E-sky servos I found this offer: www.walkera.co.nz/shop/product_info.php?cPath=211_213&products_id=8394. Perfect, 2 sets please! ;D ;D Being impatient, I decided to whip up my own main guns rather than wait weeks for hatchette's ones (which I'd have to modify anyway) so I could get cracking with getting the servos fitted before the brass cladding is done. First of all using the scale drawings from www.bismarck-class.dk/ ,I cropped and printed a side profile of Turret Bruno at 1/200 scale, then using calipers and a ruler worked out the lengths and diameters of tubing required. After a rumage through my stash of K&S Metals Shapes and sizes pack www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWFS4&P=0 (look for it at your hobby shop, its a bag stuffed with 6" and under lengths of brass,copper & aluminium tubing offcuts, of various diameters and shapes, round, square, aerofoil and hexagonal) and found enough bits to make some boom sticks ;D If I was using regular lengths of tubing I would cut 3 progressively shorter lengths of tubing , but working with the shorter lengths on hand, economy was the order of the day so my method involves a little extra work. I measured off the lengths required and added another 2/3mm to allow it be nestled into the next section: One pair completed, probably not strictly accurate but looks OK to my Mk1 eyeball, the canvas covers are a puzzle to be tackled later!!!!.: A lick of primer and a trail fit to see how it looks. Now on to the the pivots, nothing flash just a few sections of tubing to act as bushes for brass rod 'axles'. i didn't worry about measuring the tubing into exact lengths, just enough to protrude through the ply sides a mil or 2 each side: I drilled holes through the ply using part 880 as a guide to keep everything square: The bushes were glued in place with thick CA, then the axles offered up for another trail fit, before fitting to the turret: Short lengths of tube were drilled through for the axles, referring often to the print out to determine how far the base needed to pushed into into the widest diameter barrel tubes to have everything sitting in the right place , thin CA was used to make it permanent once measurements had been checked twice: Now onto the servos, first of all a servo arm was cut in two, so the it would fit inside the turret and I had a cunning plan for the off cut!: After fitting a control horn /servo arm offcut with the bottom hole drilled out to the same diameter as the 'axle' then threaded on. And yet another trail run!: Short lengths of brass rod were cut and a 'z' (ish) bend made with needle nose pliers: fitted to the servo: Trail fitting determines what sort of bends and angles are needed to get the rod meeting the control horn without the rod rubbing on anything , once happy I made another z bend then fitted it to the horn (poor turret Anton had its sides sacrificed for photographic clarity): And with the 'lid' on: Head on of turret Dora almost fitted out: . Nothings glued yet, some dabs of epoxy will applied once testing is completed as the piggybank isn't quite full enough for a new radio yet
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Post by morrigan on Nov 2, 2010 23:54:32 GMT 1
I'm back..after yet another long abscence Been busy doing a online correspondence course to gain an diploma in IT! Me poor ol' head. and a wee diversion to push a model of the Boeing 787 Dreamliner down the production line, have a peek here: buildthebismark.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=models&action=display&thread=2666But exams are over so a nice long break until next year. Huzzah! I've been still been beavering away at Bissie (study breaks : just haven't had much time to lurk on the interwebz. MY right hands not cured but semi useful again, thanks to my doc, who prescribed stick on medicated patches to increase the blood flow to my hand and now most of the time it is a healthy pink colour instead of a yucky purpleish colour and the fingers now respond most of the time to commands from the helm. Yippee! So Bissie is now looking like this: Resplendent on his very own shelf: Now schools out, I can dedicate some time to finishing off the turrets!!! Mid section is definitely more cluttered now!!: Got a little carried away with the Arado's and added a few details for the folding wing one and for both, scraps of wire, masking tape and sprue were shaped into some adornments for the Arados' 'offices'. Couldn't have Arado's being flung off the catapult sans control sticks now, could we! Could be a bit stressful for the poor pilots and the hapless gunners! ;D . Just a few final details to go! And a lovely parcel is on its way from Hong Kong, stuffed with electronic goodies to make Bissie go ;D along with a new airbrush compressor and double action air-brush ;D
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2010 0:52:50 GMT 1
Looks good Morrigan, my Bismarck is dead in the water and not going anywhere.
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Post by Mark on Nov 3, 2010 8:41:12 GMT 1
Glad to hear that your hand is improving Morrigan.
The Bismarck looks superb. Well worth a K. The extra detail on the Arado is awesome. I might have to try some of that myself.
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Post by morrigan on Nov 13, 2010 6:29:30 GMT 1
I'm sure your Bissie will slide down the launching rails one day Skyfire!! Anyway its one of the fundamental laws of modeling, to have at least one project with an ermmm... extended ETA A large parcel landed on the door step, Chrsitmas came early!! ;D the 8 channel radio was an absolute steal at $134 NZ / 64 pounds ;D and was the last one left ;D it comes with everything needed including rechargeable batteries for both transmitter and receiver : The Arados are finished complete with new plunge molded (see here for the how to: buildthebismark.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=tips&action=display&thread=2668 ) canopies framed with strips of masking tape . I added slices of .9mm plastic rod for ammo magazines for the machine gun in the cockpit. Rigging is 'invisible' mending thread, the smoke coloured stuff is just perfick for rigging. A wash of black acrylic paint thinned with water and a drop of dishwashing liquid to help the wash flow better (sumthin scientific with surface tension ) was used round the cowlings and control surfaces. A test float has revealed that landing and takeoffs should be conducted in very shallow water as the waterline is about the same level as the pilots eyebrows. Oh dear ;D I've also started on one of the cranes. I wasn't happy with the flatness of the etched hydraulic ,....watch out here comes a technical term... arm thingy-ma jig, so i decided to make them out of plastic rod and 10 amp fuse wire. First I glued the .9mm rod to the 1.1mm rod: Then using the etched part as a templete, I cut the joined pieces of plastic rod to size: The etched part was as guide to cut a length of fuse wire and then the ring was cut free and glued to the fuse wire. A scalpel tip was used to make a tiny hole in the thickest plastic rod and then I glued the fuse wire in place: Fitted to the crane: A small piece of 1.1mm plastic rod was cut to 'beef up' , I'm going to get technical here again...the dinglehickey of the whotsa-macall-it: Now I have to go spend the day peeling the vinyl signwriting off a truck, did a deal with my husbands truck painter mate for some paint for Bissie, only snag (barring the peeling of lots of sticky vinyl!!) is each colour will be in the smallest size they make up - 1 litre !!!!
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Post by Robert on Nov 13, 2010 17:34:26 GMT 1
Altogether, a very well done job Morrigan. I'm quite impressed.
Worth a 'K' to me!
Robert
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Post by Mark on Nov 14, 2010 12:29:51 GMT 1
I really love your hydraulic ram, and shall probably do the same mod myself. I love your attention to detail.
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Post by Achtung!! on Nov 14, 2010 22:47:37 GMT 1
Superb mods- have a k
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Post by morrigan on Jan 21, 2011 5:45:59 GMT 1
Picked up the last issues. Kinda sad cause that means the end of the project is near. But it does mean that a new project is in the offing. Hmmmmm what shall that be.....maybe I'll resume work on my RNZAF Sunderland MkV. My paint has arrived..... Plenty spare for boo-boos! I don't seem to be making much progress, probably due to the minuteness of some of the parts being assembled! But the pile of small sub assemblies is steadily growing and the superstructure is getting bumpier and lumpier. I'm focusing on the superstructure at the moment so I can get it all joined into 1 lump that can be safely stored while the hull gets finished off. When cutting the conduit to length for the rear rangefinder 'tower', i marked where it met the superstructure walls: After rolling the conduit to a nice curve, it was placed centrally over the lines, then I marked a off on the conduit where it needed it to be cut to length: A large collection of small bits!: The crane platform: Adding bits to the bridge: For further punishment I drilled out the exhaust pipes on the funnel using microdrills: I'll be doing some excavating in the funnel and replacing the moulded in solid gratings with some mesh. Partly for better appearance and partly to let some noise out as this is where I'll hide a speaker eventually. At the moment the funnel cap is only tack glued in place so I can easily free the cap when I get 'rountoit' And if you're wondering about the appearance of shiny brass, I've changed from using a spray etch primer and trying out a brush on etch primer, Mr Hobby Mr Metal primer which is clear rather than the usual grey.
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Post by morrigan on Jan 23, 2011 1:30:39 GMT 1
Tackled yet more small bits! For the quad AA guns I've replaced the etched barrels with lengths of 15 amp fuse wire: The searchlights were given some bling by lining them them with foil. First a searchlight was pressed down onto some aluminum foil tape to mark out perfectly sized circles (most hardware shops stock it, but ordinary kitchen foil placed over wet varnish can be used): Cut out the discs of foil, then maneuver them into the bottom of the searchlight with tweezers and scalpel, and burnish into place using a paintbrush handle: To finish 'blinging' the searchlight, cut some 5mm x 1cm strips of foil and burnish into place on the sides, about 3 strips will be needed per light you can use just one long strip but you will need your finest strong words as the tape will do its darnest to stick to itself! Any excess foil can be trimmed away with a fresh scalpel blade: The finished result, the bling one on the left, the right one has a silver painted inside: I've also modded the bow flag staff a little, using brass rod for the staff but retaining the etched supports. I didn't used the etched 'light' as supplied, I just used the piece with the hole in it. The hole was drilled out to fit the brass rod and was attached to the flagstaff but not twisted upright. A tiny piece of clear stretched sprue was glued in place and a dab of sliver paint applied to the rear of the light: I used the etched flagstaff as a template to mark out the posiitons of thesupport brace the leftmost mark is the bottom of the flag staff the excess is for the clamp while painting: The support braces cut free from the etched sprue: Assembled and painted: Flash off so you can see how the silver paint reflects light: On the buoy holders, I bent the inner sets of brackets while still on the sprue to minimize that bitter twisted feeling: I couldn't be bother digging out my protractor from whereevers its hiding to mark out the bases for Anton and Dora and cheated by extending out the lines on the diagram in the instructions using pencil and ruler: Centering the turret base over the diagram: Marking off the guidelines: For these small parts I decided to apply them to the turret bases then bend them since no measurements were given by hatchette or guidelines etched on the parts and I figured I would end having to re-bend them anyway from a botched guestimate!!!:
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Post by Achtung!! on Jan 24, 2011 10:33:38 GMT 1
Nice tip for the bases of the guns.
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Post by ph on Jan 24, 2011 16:37:15 GMT 1
hello morrigan,your build looks bloody great,keep it up. im gona use the tip for the bases when i get round to doing them. i see you are using etch primer,do you need to use that stuff,all i have done is use primer,but i have seen some of the primer flake off on bits of my brass parts. anyway well done
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Post by morrigan on Jan 26, 2011 8:15:33 GMT 1
Etched primer will solve the paint flaking problem for you PH, it's well worth nipping down to the hardware or auto parts shop for a couple of cans or the local hobby shop for a bottle of Mr Metal Primer if the weathers too hot/cold/wet/windy for spray painting. You'll be able to bend and shape the primed brass bits with no pesky flakes as etching primer is acidic which minutely roughens up the surface of non ferrous metals which allows the primer to 'grab' the metal so it and subsequent coats of paint will stay put .
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Post by ph on Jan 26, 2011 13:46:34 GMT 1
thank you morrigan,ill give that ago,im going to model shop in couple weeks so ill get some. 1 more thing can i use it even if my brass parts are glued to the wooden parts or plastic parts,it wont damage the wood will it or the plastic parts aswell. thank you
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