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Post by david on Oct 20, 2007 18:18:13 GMT 1
Thanks Marcus, that looks fantastic. As usual, you make the most challenging parts of this build look easy! I've just started cambering this deck and will post pictures shortly. David.
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Post by bob on Oct 21, 2007 19:11:18 GMT 1
Nice pictures Marcus looking forward to catching you guys up in Germany.
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Post by david on Oct 27, 2007 21:32:24 GMT 1
As promised, photos of the camber on my aft-deck. Strips of 1.5mm x 5 were laid down and then profiled. This was much easier than doing the main deck! David.
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Post by napoleon on Oct 27, 2007 23:35:41 GMT 1
Nice job David, but how will you accommodate the assembly from issue 28 as that has a flat bottom?
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Post by david on Oct 28, 2007 10:00:14 GMT 1
Hi Napoleon,
I plan to remove material from part 105 using a curved sanding block, maybe a cardboard tube wrapped around with sandpaper. Parts 106 and 107 will need a little reshaping on the inside as well. Greg made a useful suggestion; laying a piece of sandpaper face upwards, across the curved deck and then drawing the part that needed sanding, backwards and forwards over it. This technique will perhaps work better on the larger surfaces, so for part 105, I might just 'eyeball' it. I'll post more pictures shortly.
David
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Post by napoleon on Oct 28, 2007 12:07:50 GMT 1
Hi David,
Thanks for the explanation but I was concerned more with the brass etched facias which may be more difficult.
Napoleon
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Post by david on Oct 28, 2007 17:09:54 GMT 1
Napoleon, As Marcus's recent pictures show the front of the PE hangar door allows me sufficient height at the base to accomodate the camber. However, the other etched facias are as you suggest a slightly different matter, particularly where they turn a corner and start to 'run up hill' into the semi-circular gun bays. I reckon that there will be a rise in the deck height of less than a mm in these places, even on the main deck, except the facias running close up to turret 'Cesar' which might have a rise closer to 2mm. This is the one area of concern I have, and my plan here is to wait until I we have the PE parts before devising a strategy for dealing with it. Whatever I decide to do, I intend to retain the brass etchings even if I have to cut them and 'step' them up as the deck rises. David.
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Post by napoleon on Oct 28, 2007 18:37:56 GMT 1
Thanks for explanation David and I'm sure you will achieve a suitable solution.
Napoleon
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Post by david on Jan 14, 2008 22:51:52 GMT 1
Hi Guys, I’ve had to perform major surgery on my deck recently which has been rather a worrisome setback. Warps on two of the deck panels didn’t respond to steaming or bracing, and eventually crept back to 2mm above the side walls. I have to admit that the deck camber, because of the way I made it, didn’t help. Anyway, I ripped out the middle section of the deck and completely replaced it with new deck beams and two main longitudinal beams. Doing this enabled me to make the camber the way I originally wanted to do it, by shaping the deck beams and it also afforded me the luxury of using full length deck sheets. This has finally produced a much more accurate and solid deck. On an earlier post I suggested that the deck might best be planked like the hull, double planked, but I now think sheets are the best way. Additional rigidity was obtained by making a box-section under the deck which I will make watertight. I’ll be posting photos shortly of my approach to the waterway/gutter/gunwale features; the other reason I’m way behind! David
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Post by eric on Jan 14, 2008 22:57:05 GMT 1
That looks very fine David, most impressive........and you've got a stick of TNT in case you wish to blow her to atoms, excellent idea!!!
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Post by swanrail on Jan 14, 2008 23:42:24 GMT 1
Looking very good David. The waterways should be slightly below the level of the deck planking (a good view of this can be found in The Anatomy of the Ship Bismarck, page 148, diags H5/3 and H5/5) but to scale, the drop is only 0.2mm, so I will probably leave flush. I am going to deck plank with "proper" planks, as I feel that this makes a model. Hachette are mainly supplying printed decks (see German previews) but have offered those who ask for them, laser cut deck planks, I am on their list and awaiting issue 60 to see what they are offering. The planks to scale should be 0.75mm wide, a non standard width if you buy in. Have tried to make my own by cutting down, but not very successful, so have opted for 1mm instead, which is much easier to handle. I would recommend Markus mod whereby the side gunnls are made to cover the side of the deck (plus its planking). This makes a neater finish to the hull, and makes more watertight. Shall look forward to your next set of pictures.
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Post by stroker on Nov 21, 2008 7:33:33 GMT 1
Wow, David you sure are putting in the extra mile there... awesome...
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Post by stroker on Nov 21, 2008 7:34:56 GMT 1
Lmao off at dynamite
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