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Post by stroker on Oct 26, 2008 11:27:58 GMT 1
Okay, so what was the consensus on painting the brass bits, do we wash it first then prime it for best results, I have read nearly all the posts on here but I think I have sensory overloaded  thanks, steve |
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Post by rushzombie on Oct 26, 2008 15:43:14 GMT 1
all i did was prime the brass with grey primer then top coat of the grey
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Post by popeye on Oct 28, 2008 17:14:48 GMT 1
Ditto (Halfords primer and Tamiya acrylic paint)
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Post by stroker on Oct 30, 2008 3:32:03 GMT 1
Okey Dokey, well that has help simplify it, thanks Rush and Poopeye for your Help... Steve
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Post by afkmatrix on Oct 30, 2008 13:35:13 GMT 1
Here's another one for you that I have been pondering. I have painted a few of my brass parts and they look fab with the grey on but I have noticed they are a bit prone to scratches etc. Is there some kind of mat clear coat I can apply to fix the grey so it has some protection?
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Post by Mark on Oct 30, 2008 15:50:43 GMT 1
It might be worth giving them a wipe with thinners before priming if you have handled them a lot, just to remove and grease from finger prints, etc. Any large unetched areas would benefit from a light sanding with very fine sand paper (or wet-n-dry) to give the paint a key. You can protect them with a varnish. Acrylic varnish is quite good as it has good compatibility (but test it first !) and is quite tough. You can wash the air brush out in water too  The Acrylic ones seem to be very clear as well, so you shouldn't change the colour of the ship. What ever you use, test it on a piece of scrap first to make sure it doesn't react with the grey paint and also that it sticks well. |
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Post by stroker on Nov 7, 2008 6:33:33 GMT 1
Thanks for that as well Mark,,, to say I have handled mine a bit is an understatement,,, the brass that is :-) Steve
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Post by popeye on Nov 7, 2008 11:23:52 GMT 1
Dear Afkmatrix.
2 possible products. Halfords clear lacquer in a spray can. I keep a can of this handy to cover any paint touch-ups on my car. Its very good and hard wearing and dries quickly but may be a bit to thick/heavy for the small size of the brassware, especially railings. You could try spraying it into a small container and then brushing it on lightly.
The other option is a spray can of PCB lacquer from Maplin (£3.99p). the blurb on it says:
Fast drying acrylic lacquer coating
Acid and alkali resistant
Multi-application
Seals printed circuitry
Use for over-lacquering of metal and paint work
Ideal as a waterproof coating for maps and technical documents
Supplied in a 200ml can
This sounds ideal, especially for spraying over acrylic paint. Again, it may be better to spray some into a container and paint it on, that way you have more control over the thickness (I do the same with the Halfords grey primer spray on the brassware).
I'm going to buy the Maplin lacquer myself and will try it on a small area that I painted for a trial (I won't be doing the main painting of any deck structures until the model is nearly complete and I know that I have got ALL the pieces to hand - thanks to Hachette staggering the various parts so that some months after you think something is finished a new part suddenly appears to be glued onto a nicely painted structure !!)
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Post by poulw on Mar 1, 2009 1:23:43 GMT 1
Here is one I cannot solve, so I need some help !!!Similar to small brass bits, I have constructed some 2x2x1mm small winches using 0.25mm styrene sheet. They are to go directly on to a planked deck, so I cannot fix them before painting in order not to damage the deck. These are by far my smallest parts to be painted individually. How on Earth do I hold/fix them during priming, so the spray can won't blow them away  |
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Post by Baz on Mar 1, 2009 7:27:53 GMT 1
Here is one I cannot solve, so I need some help !!!Similar to small brass bits, I have constructed some 2x2x1mm small winches using 0.25mm styrene sheet. They are to go directly on to a planked deck, so I cannot fix them before painting in order not to damage the deck. These are by far my smallest parts to be painted individually. How on Earth do I hold/fix them during priming, so the spray can won't blow them away Blu-tak them to something Poul. I attached some small bits to an old battery. D size, tacked them to the positive knob Then away I went.......................  Baz |
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Post by nm on Mar 1, 2009 9:19:50 GMT 1
Holding down small parts:
Double-sided Sellotape?
nm
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Post by Robert on Mar 1, 2009 12:22:21 GMT 1
Here is one I cannot solve, so I need some help !!! Do you think possible that the edge of a needle heated directly under a lighter and then stuck under your winch could do it without harming it, Poul? Needle and styrene should weld together under the effect of heat. That way you'll get something to grab for painting your piece. You can eventually keep the needle in after having shortened it, drill a hole in your planked deck and thread it into it. May perhaps be a solution?… Cheers and good luck, Robert |
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Post by Mark on Mar 1, 2009 21:22:10 GMT 1
www.buildthetitanic.co.uk/058.htmHere's how I did small bits on the Titanic. Tape a piece of masking tape upside down to a board, put them on and then paint. Cheaper than double sided tape, and has a low tak so doesn't remove paint and the parts come off easily.
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Post by poulw on Mar 1, 2009 21:22:22 GMT 1
Thanks a lot for your suggestions.
I already tried double sided sellotape with some other small parts, but the solvent in the primer caused a reaction which somehow mixed the paint and the adhesive so it all went sticky, and the parts were floating all around the tape. I gave up cleaning the parts and had to make some new ones.
I trie two different primers - same result.
Not recommended.
Maybe masking tape reacts differently. Different adhesive. Thanks Mark.
Maybe drilling a 0.6mm hole in the bottom of the parts and attach each part to a piece of 0.5mm wire could do the trick. I'll give it a go tomorrow (I've made one spare just in case). Thanks Robert.
Baz, I have thought of using Blu-tak, but I don't have very good experiences with it so far. If the above doesn't work, I may have to try though.
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Post by Mike B on Mar 1, 2009 22:47:13 GMT 1
Maybe drilling a 0.6mm hole in the bottom of the parts and attach each part to a piece of 0.5mm wire could do the trick. This is the way to go, Poul. I am building a miniature copy of my Danmark in a bottle and I use 0.4mm brass wire glued into the base of the part . Apart from holding the part when painting it, the wire is then used to mount the part onto the deck using a 0.5mm hole in the deck.  |
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thanks, steve
The Acrylic ones seem to be very clear as well, so you shouldn't change the colour of the ship.
