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Post by Matthew. on Mar 15, 2007 23:41:59 GMT 1
hay i just want to warn you all about skinning ive noticed from here that we will need to skin the ship with planks and from XP with the victory this can be a B***h the victory ones are only 3-5mm wide, 1mm thick and about 20cm long but you need to use about 1000 of them and use small tacks to hold them while the glue dries then take them out (which they didn't say until the last moment grrr) and then glue these strips which are as thick as paper on that was a very hard job any way im sorry to go off of the subject but i would like to gather some tips so we can actually get this right the first time we do need to consider this thickness how they are fixed and whether they can come off is there another skin over this are they gona be waterproof -- if just wood and glue i doubt this what we can do to make them waterproof i can say that i don't think the way they are gona say will work very well its just a feeling but i don't if some one here can tell us how they say to fix them it would be very appreciated -- at lest we can prepare because if they are just held on by glue and are just the thin wood with paint on then mine ain't going any were near water the wood will soak up the water and peel off sinking your ship... =[ that's allot of money to let it sink. thanks matthew
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Post by Mark on Mar 16, 2007 5:01:39 GMT 1
Hi Matthew,
Planking a model can be quite difficult and time comsuming, but it is a well established method and will be quite strong enough. My Titanic is planked and it is plenty stong enough. It goes without saying that you need to use a waterproof glue. I use Evostick weatherproof white glue, but you can also use Aliphatic glue. That is waterproof and sandable. It's available from model shop. Don't 'ordinary' white PVA glue. It softens in water, and your model will leak.
By the time you've completed the planking, filled any gaps with filler (I use car body filler) and painted the hull it should be waterproof. However, if you really want belt and braces you could paint the inside with resin, also available from model shops.
Cheers Mark
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Post by steveo on Mar 16, 2007 9:16:15 GMT 1
A posting in Preview from Dirk says that in issue 18 a Muslin/Gauze bandage is supplied. This is applied to the inner sides of the Hull with a waterproof PVA glue to prevent leaks and stiffen the Hull, it will need to be carefully applied though and at the right point, otherwise good accesss to the inner Hull at a later stage may prove difficult. Just a thought, it might be an idea to apply it once you have planked one side of the hull that way you have halved the access problem. Aliphatic glue is good to use for this as its great for porous materials as well as wood and is also waterproof.
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Post by Matthew. on Mar 16, 2007 10:41:56 GMT 1
ahh sweat yeh im using waterproof glue just the fact of planking put me off as the victory was a pain in the a** thanks and yeah if they give a Muslin/Gauze bandage for the inside i might put a layer of resin over the Muslin/Gauze bandage should hold it well and stop leeks thanks for your tips ill post them up the top soon now
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Post by dirk on Mar 16, 2007 10:52:50 GMT 1
sorry guys, but Amati will not provide Muslin/Gauze bandage with iss 18. You have to buy it yourself... ;D
I used the run off one from my first assistance suit-case in my car.
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Post by Matthew. on Mar 16, 2007 11:36:21 GMT 1
ohh god lol ill have to find some then thanks for the "heads up"
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Post by steveo on Mar 16, 2007 12:00:39 GMT 1
sorry guys, but Amati will not provide Muslin/Gauze bandage with iss 18. You have to buy it yourself... ;D I used the run off one from my first assistance suit-case in my car. Muslin/Gauze bandage is standard issue in most First Aid kits The cost of completing the RC version is going up all the time, I reckon we wont be far off a £900 build by the time you take into account the RC kit, glue, paint and all the bits & bob's that are starting to surface.....pardon the pun
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Post by Matthew. on Mar 16, 2007 18:21:15 GMT 1
yeh its quite expecive but i got the whole titanic free today lol
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Post by steveo on Mar 16, 2007 18:28:04 GMT 1
yeh its quite expecive but i got the whole titanic free today lol How come you got it free?
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Post by viking on Mar 16, 2007 19:18:25 GMT 1
Matthew it is supposes to be double planked so that is that out of the way. This is the first time i will have built in wood and do not know that much about planking so had a look at different sits to see what is involved found one on Model Boat World in witch the builder talks about aliplatic glue and Modelspan tissue to cover when planking is complete to give a water prof finish it is under the heading VIVA TALIA well worth a look www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=192&start=0
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Post by Matthew. on Mar 16, 2007 19:18:48 GMT 1
my ant couldn't build it gave up on iss 1 lol and she got all of them before starting
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Post by Matthew. on Mar 17, 2007 14:41:13 GMT 1
Matthew it is supposes to be double planked so that is that out of the way. This is the first time i will have built in wood and do not know that much about planking so had a look at different sits to see what is involved found one on Model Boat World in witch the builder talks about aliplatic glue and Modelspan tissue to cover when planking is complete to give a water prof finish it is under the heading VIVA TALIA well worth a look www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=192&start=0 and thanks .. sorry i missed you
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Post by chrispy on Apr 26, 2007 14:54:22 GMT 1
i take it u do the middle planking one side then the other? or is it one plank one side then the other?
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Post by jampot on Apr 26, 2007 15:29:35 GMT 1
this is the first wooded ship i have made i've read in the german site that the model bent when it was planked do any of you know how to stop this happening jampot
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Post by viking on Apr 27, 2007 18:39:28 GMT 1
<Hi jampot when you start the planking keep the hull on your gig 3 to 4 planks one side then the same on the other i will be putting 2 full lengths from bow to stern. Have also got a line in center from bow to stern this helps to keep it all in line I hope. just to show what i mean it is the same as a brick layer would do to keep a course of bricks straight and level. If the line gos of to a side you have to much tension on that side if it gos slack you are starting to lift the keel forward or aft and if the distance between the line and boat get less the keel is starting to lift in the middle so you have got all the angles coved. You can see line running across the paper it is fastened stern and bow by pins sidi john
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