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Post by jampot on Apr 27, 2007 19:35:15 GMT 1
thanks for the info
jampot
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Post by chris on Apr 30, 2007 9:49:00 GMT 1
ty vik so should we put 2 strips from stem to stern or just do middle 1st?
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Post by jim on May 6, 2007 19:25:54 GMT 1
I have been building plank on frame for more years than I care to remember and from experience I can assure you the best way to ensure a straight hull is to plank evenly from side to side. one plank each side at a time.
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Post by Achtung!! on May 7, 2007 16:42:15 GMT 1
Thats how I did it with the Titanic, and I built up a few bundles of the planks before I started just so I could have a good go at planking instead of doing a few planks then having to wait a week. I know that sounds weird but I felt myself getting into a pattern of attaching the planks and it went on quite well.
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Post by swanrail on May 8, 2007 0:04:57 GMT 1
I always use resin to waterproof my hulls, bought from a car accessory shop. Be warned, do not drive in "brass" pins left over from Titanic/Victory, they are steel coated with brass and will rust! Drive in halfway, and remove when glue dry.
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Post by Achtung!! on May 8, 2007 9:27:45 GMT 1
Ah ta for the tip - I was going to do that.
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Post by chris on May 10, 2007 10:17:36 GMT 1
ok planks 1 chris nil! tried using glue only they kept pinging back off!!! so i'm using pins to help hold them as mine is a static model.
where i don't need them i'm not using them.
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Post by Achtung!! on May 10, 2007 12:40:18 GMT 1
I got quite apt at putting nails in the Titanic. A pair of really thin needle nose pliers to hold the pins and away you go.
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Post by steveo on May 10, 2007 14:41:09 GMT 1
There is an actual tool called a 'pin pusher' which does exactly that, the pins drop into the nose of the pusher and away you go, most model boat shops sell them.
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Post by Mark on May 11, 2007 2:58:11 GMT 1
ok planks 1 chris nil! tried using glue only they kept pinging back off!!! so i'm using pins to help hold them as mine is a static model. where i don't need them i'm not using them. Yeah, pins are pretty much essential - at least 1 at each end, and where-ever the plank doesn't naturally sit tight against the frame or hard up against the adjacent plank. |
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Post by chris on May 11, 2007 11:34:17 GMT 1
to those on 2nd planking dos the sides look like planking or metal sheets?
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Post by Mark on May 11, 2007 13:01:29 GMT 1
The second layer of planking is done by thin planks (at least, that's what they have done in Germany). When this is filled, sanded and painted it should give a perfectly smooth finish.
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Post by chris on May 14, 2007 9:30:06 GMT 1
just seen makes tip wish he had put it on a week ago, just finished my 40 planks and if there wrong i'm not ripping them off!!!!!!!!so?
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Post by barbod on May 14, 2007 10:13:00 GMT 1
Hi, using nails or pins is a real pain and leaves messy holes to sand down and fill. I have discovered some lovely planking clamps from a seller on E-Bay. Search for item No 220111911951 from the home page. These are so easy to use and only cost £8.99 for 10 with free P&P - They actually screw into the rib and hold the plank securely in place whilst the glue dries. I just wish that I had found them 3 models ago!
I have sent Mark a piccy so that if he can add it to this post....................
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Post by chrispy on May 15, 2007 11:07:40 GMT 1
i'm going to contin with nails and hope for the best, allthough she has got a slight wobble?
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