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Post by popeye on Nov 9, 2007 15:59:56 GMT 1
I have posted some more pictures showing my Bismarck to date. It shows the start of the second hull planking using the long mahogany strips, how I am fixing the middle propellor as a freewheeling (unpowered) prop, the fixing of the propshafts into the frames inside the boat, a sanding block and roll of sandpaper, plank bender, and how I have secured the decks using quick release quarter turn dzus screws. click on www.flickr.com/photos/commander-popeye/and either just scroll through the pictures or select the Bismarck as at 9 Nov 07 set.
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Post by Achtung!! on Nov 9, 2007 16:21:11 GMT 1
Excellent stuff - serious work bench you have there!! Im jealous!!!
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Post by eric on Nov 9, 2007 17:33:47 GMT 1
Superb Popeye, which way will you finish the hull planking? plank as per hachette instructions, or plank right up to main deck level?
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Post by napoleon on Nov 9, 2007 18:37:18 GMT 1
Looks super to me Popeye. I am going to use 1m length planks and wonder where you made the join alond the length of the hull?
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Post by popeye on Nov 9, 2007 21:05:26 GMT 1
I started the first long plank from one end, at the level immediately below the "ledge" in the firsle planking and then cut a short piece (about 7 inches) to add to the end of the long plank to take it to the other end of the hull. I then started the next long plank below the first but started from the opposite end of the hull. I then alternated the start end each time so that there is not a single, visible vertical join line, as occurs with the first set of planking. This is helped by the dark colour of the mahogany, which tends to hide the join as well.
I intend to be planking as per Hachette but I am watching the instruction sheets on the german site, who are about 6 months ahead of us, to see how the second layer is completed, particularly at the deck level.
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Post by napoleon on Nov 9, 2007 21:24:34 GMT 1
Thanks for your quick answer Popeye. I will do the same when the time comes and must say your planking does look better than having 4 visible verticle lines. Once a coat of paint is applied, should certainly be totally invisible and very smooth.
Cheers
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Post by eric on Nov 11, 2007 17:39:10 GMT 1
I am now seriously considering getting my own planks for second planking, I like the idea of avoiding the joint marks. If I buy 1mmx6mmx1m planks, would that be a good size? and how many would I roughly need to plank the whole hull?
Ta Eric
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Post by markus on Nov 11, 2007 21:30:04 GMT 1
5mm strips are better due to 6mm strips from the 1st layer
needed amount is approx. 50 strips in 6mm or 60 strips in 5mm
cheers
markus
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Post by ph on Nov 12, 2007 12:38:07 GMT 1
Think i been doing the same,it sounds a lot easer and a better finish
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Post by eric on Nov 12, 2007 17:34:31 GMT 1
5mm strips are better due to 6mm strips from the 1st layer needed amount is approx. 50 strips in 6mm or 60 strips in 5mm cheers markus Thanks Markus, have ordered 60 strips of 5mm planks, should arrive in a few days.
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Post by trevor on Jan 8, 2008 22:23:40 GMT 1
Hi everyone, can anyone tell me of a online shop that supplies the lime wood planking, as I want to adapt my build to take the planking to just above the deck, as some others have done.
trevor
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Post by swanrail on Jan 8, 2008 23:08:01 GMT 1
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Post by trevor on Jan 8, 2008 23:28:51 GMT 1
Thanks swanrail, just ordered some 1 x5 mm planks, yes a bit pricey to send by mail but worth it to me as I can't find any model shop within 25 miles of my location that sells items like this.
trevor
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Post by Model Boat Mayhem on Aug 12, 2008 10:23:51 GMT 1
Noticed this on the Model Ship World forum, anyone here tried this? www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3211&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=40Hi guys, Forgot to remove my secret multi-use all purpose heating appliance from the photo, oh alright I admit it's an ordinary everyday clothes iron. Well done Uwe, yes it is to steam bend planks but as I mainly use super glue (CA) it does serve more than one purpose. I'll try to explain. Simply soak the planks which are to be bent then spread a thin smear of CA along the plank, position one end of the plank on the model and press with the iron (set at medium heat) then as the plank is laid down follow along with the iron. The plank is steamed to shape while the heat sets the CA without any chance at all of it lifting. I also use it on straight dry planks just to ensure there are no spots along the planks length which are not stuck down tight. As soon as one plank is done I can start on the next one. Works for me.. Cool Regards Greg.
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Post by eric on Aug 12, 2008 14:26:51 GMT 1
Nice!
But I sure hope that wasn't the wifes fav iron.....
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