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hull
Apr 9, 2007 16:00:54 GMT 1
Post by markus on Apr 9, 2007 16:00:54 GMT 1
Mark, how many issues has it taken to get this far?? Stuart this is the result of issue 1-23 plus a second planking with custom-made wooden strips with 1200mm length to get a smooth line... paulhbell: my wife would kill me if i started building the ship on the floor  |
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hull
Apr 9, 2007 16:14:45 GMT 1
Post by markus on Apr 9, 2007 16:14:45 GMT 1
here the complete hull from the inside:  |
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hull
Apr 9, 2007 22:16:03 GMT 1
Post by dennismate on Apr 9, 2007 22:16:03 GMT 1
I'm assuming the big white thing in the photo are the batteries, excuse my ignorance, but this is a first for me.....
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hull
Apr 9, 2007 22:28:45 GMT 1
Post by Achtung!! on Apr 9, 2007 22:28:45 GMT 1
I think its the battery pack surrounded by polysterene foam for protection/water proofing. Roll on when I get my r/c gear
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hull
Apr 10, 2007 8:30:09 GMT 1
Post by markus on Apr 10, 2007 8:30:09 GMT 1
I think its the battery pack surrounded by polysterene foam for protection/water proofing. Roll on when I get my r/c gear that's right - and the cells can be pushed foreward/backward until the ship lies correcty in the water markus |
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hull
Apr 10, 2007 12:09:10 GMT 1
Post by ph on Apr 10, 2007 12:09:10 GMT 1
Hello Mark,Viking
Iv checked and double checked the center line down part 3 and 9 and that seems all ok,ill take your advice mark and leave it alone till i start planking,iv done everything els that i can do now so got to wait till end of month until my next batch comes throw door.
cheers again
paul
P S this as nothing to do with the Bismarck but i remembered that i have a wooden ship to build of the golden hide,its been in loft bout 30 years so gona start that now iv got the bug for building.
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hull
Apr 10, 2007 12:25:38 GMT 1
Post by markus on Apr 10, 2007 12:25:38 GMT 1
slight differences of the frames is no problem because they are sanded before planking.
after sanding, 1. planking, sanding, 2. planking and a final sanding all differences disappear....don't worry
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hull
Apr 11, 2007 9:55:29 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Apr 11, 2007 9:55:29 GMT 1
Hi Chris,
I think it is glue & nails, although you shouldn't drive the nails all the way home as you should pull them out after the glue has set.
It is bigger than the Titanic.
The model can be made radio controlled, so you need to remove the deck to get at the radio control gear, batteries, motor, etc.
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hull
Apr 11, 2007 9:58:43 GMT 1
Post by chris on Apr 11, 2007 9:58:43 GMT 1
ty mark but u can drive them in all the way if u wanted?
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hull
Apr 11, 2007 12:13:57 GMT 1
Post by Achtung!! on Apr 11, 2007 12:13:57 GMT 1
I suppose you could, now im know i might be sounding silly here, but would the nails upset the centre of gravity on the boat? or allow the intruison of water into the frames of the hull?
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hull
Apr 11, 2007 14:01:42 GMT 1
Post by Mark on Apr 11, 2007 14:01:42 GMT 1
There are a couple of problems with driving them in all the way. They will show through the finish and make sanding difficult. Secondly, if they are steel they may rust and this will cause rust stains on the model eventually. Of course brass pins won't rust, but would still cause problems. You may get water instrusion if a nail misses a frame, but it's unlikely. The weight of the nails isn't enough to upset the centre of gravity of the model. In fact you will probably need to add ballast weights to bring it down to the water line. It doesn't sound silly Chill - if you don't ask you'll never find out  |
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hull
Apr 11, 2007 15:16:05 GMT 1
Post by markus on Apr 11, 2007 15:16:05 GMT 1
hachette delivers no nails to fix the wooden strips for the hull.
they are also not meant to be left in the frames.
i used thin "model-building-needles" to keep the wooden strips in place while the glue dried.
the wooden strips are very soft, so the holes of the needles almost disappear afterwards...
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hull
Apr 11, 2007 22:16:03 GMT 1
Post by Mikey on Apr 11, 2007 22:16:03 GMT 1
If you can't get to a specialist model shop, you could always try model rail track pins, They might be on the shorter side but they are relatively cheap and you get a good amount.
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hull
Apr 13, 2007 11:40:19 GMT 1
Post by tdcj on Apr 13, 2007 11:40:19 GMT 1
Hello. I'm new to model building. I've just completed issue 6, but on looking at the underside of the hull, the first two frames I put on at issue 1 are not 100% flush (albeit less than a millimetre out). Will this be a major problem?
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hull
Apr 13, 2007 13:00:06 GMT 1
Post by viking on Apr 13, 2007 13:00:06 GMT 1
welcome tdcj to tell you the truth i do not know if you have had it on a gig and held down flat you should not have that problem but as long as the top is right you can sand the bottom flat  [/img] this is mine so far |
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