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Post by Mark on Feb 13, 2008 4:49:51 GMT 1
Here's a guide for soldering electrical parts, but the same theory pretty much applies to brass etched parts. www.solderinguide.com/Common faults are not getting the parts clean, and using too much solder, or too thick solder wire. |
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Post by dirtydozen on Feb 13, 2008 8:22:21 GMT 1
I'm having a lesson in soldering at work today(if the plumber turns up)
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Post by dirtydozen on Feb 13, 2008 18:32:20 GMT 1
Superglue it is then  I took my part 51 to work today,showed the plumber and he said anyone not confident in soldering shouldnt attempt something so small and fiddly and stick(  to superglue. |
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Post by swanrail on Feb 13, 2008 23:37:48 GMT 1
I have been using soldering iron for many decades now, and this is my experience, for what it is worth:
1. both parts must be tinned first onto a perfectly clean surface, using either a flux (soldering) paste or solder with inbuilt flux.
2. Keep solder on tinned part to a minimum.
3. Make sure that the soldering iron is man enough to get the correct amount of heat into joint, else you will end up with a dry joint - easy to pull apart. (as a test, we always used to yank the part soldered to make sure).
3. When joining parts together, keep perfectly still whilst "melting" the solder, and until the solder sets.
I tried using my smallest (very fine tippped iron) to solder a small piece of brass onto another larger piece. Immediately it was obvious that the small iron could not produce enough heat to make a secure joint ( the larger brass conducts heat away very rapidly) and it was imposible not to leave a small residue of solder on the top surface of the small brass part. A larger iron would be difficult to handle on such small parts.
In my opinion, these factors alone would cause serious damage to the finely etched brass parts that we are now getting, so I have opted for superglue.
When we get the catapault, I might try soldering that, though from what Markus has said, this too is very small and fiddly!!!
If you wish to experiment for yourselves (and I would recommend this) then in issue 51, we get yet another brass sheet, but this time on it are parts 284 to 288 which are spare in case you lose any, these would be ideal to test your soldering onto a a scrap of brass such as the area where the label 701 has been engraved.
My own use of the soldering iron on model building can be seen on my British Chanceller, all the rails, the oil pipework and the cat walk were constructed using the soldering iron, but I did not have to contend with such small parts with fine detail on them!!!
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Post by russ on Feb 13, 2008 23:48:44 GMT 1
I think i will stick to super glue with mine from past experience with wiring a soldering job will turn out to be a abig total and utter disaster
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Post by nm on Feb 14, 2008 0:11:49 GMT 1
Aaah! Stick to superglue!
NM
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Post by napoleon on Feb 14, 2008 0:16:34 GMT 1
I think I'm stuck on the idea of superglue!! ;D ;D
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2008 7:52:24 GMT 1
I think I'm stuck on the idea of superglue!! ;D ;D Think I'm stuck on the same idea as you napoleon!!! Just can't seem to get free, do you think it's the super glue ? |
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Post by nm on Feb 14, 2008 10:29:14 GMT 1
Superglue? If it's OK with Mark, you could put an ad here!
(Can't think of an "adhesive" line.)
NM
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Post by jim on Feb 15, 2008 9:11:40 GMT 1
Right here goes with my questions.
1. are electric soldering irons not mainly for electrical contacts.?
2. copper has a lower melting point than brass, ergo easier to solder with electric.
3. how the hell do we clean the very small parts prior to soldering?
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Post by Mark on Feb 15, 2008 9:24:47 GMT 1
Hi Jim,
Some answers for you.
1. Nah, electric soldering irons can be used for anything. The model railway boys use them to solder etched brass model loco kits together all the time. Gas powered soldering irons can also be quite useful, but blow lamps are not so good as the heat is too uncontrolled.
2. Copper and brass are equally easy to solder. The brass or copper does not melt. You just need to get them hot enough (circa 220 C) for the solder to melt.
3. A solvent such as white spirit, electrical cleaner, some paint thinners, etc. and a paint brush or cotton bud. It's easier to clean the small parts before removing them from the fret.
If you're not confident with a soldering iron you may find it easier to use superglue.
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Post by jim on Feb 16, 2008 11:10:51 GMT 1
right I need to go buy a soldering iron.
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Post by jim on Feb 16, 2008 18:21:21 GMT 1
hmmm I just spent to-day on issue 49, a combination of shaky hands and bad eyesight makes the question of soldering or glueing somewhat moot
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Post by jim on Mar 13, 2008 20:30:27 GMT 1
Mark what kind of solder should be used for brass? my Brother is building Flying Scot. his solder is just blobs dosen't seem to spread. he is using a tiny gas soldering iron bout the size of a pen. uses butane. but gives plenty of heat. is he using the right solder?  |
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Post by viking on Mar 13, 2008 21:55:42 GMT 1
if my memory serves me right it will only spared where there is heat so if you are only using a fine tip you will only get it to stick to a small bit at a time to get it to run you have to heat up a longer section you can do this by running the iron up and down the joint
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to superglue.
