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Post by markus on Oct 17, 2007 17:35:09 GMT 1
hi eric! looking good but unfortunately the smallest thread is M4, needed thread is M2 cheers markus
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Post by markus on Oct 19, 2007 18:48:52 GMT 1
Markus It appears Hachette have poted a long response on the Die Graue Flotte web forum regarding the post from the guy saying the Hachette RC set was schei ;D Any chance for an accurate translation of what there response is? if you meant this - translation below: Hier werden in den nächsten Wochen diverse Erläuterungen und Hilfestellungen zum Einbau der RC-Komponenten gegeben. Mögliche Probleme werden erörtert, Lösungen angeboten: 1. Stevenrohre: Sollten Sie Probleme mit der Durchführung der Stevenrohre durch die Spanten haben, gilt es folgendes zu berücksichtigen: Die Bohrungen und Aussparungen betragen nur 5 mm, das Stevenrohr hat aber 6 mm Durchmesser. Wir hatten im Text zu Bild 24 vorbeugend geschrieben, "Unstimmigkeiten können Sie durch Nachfeilen beseitigen". Dies beinhaltet, dass Sie die Bohrungen mit einer Rundfeile gleichmäßig auf 6 mm vergrößern müssen. 2. Positionierung der Motoren: Die seitliche Lage der Wellen (und damit auch der Motoren) ergibt sich automatisch aus den vorgegebenen Bohrungen und Aussparungen in den Spanten, wie sie auf Bild 24 bezeichnet sind. Was die längenmäßige Positionierung betrifft, so werden Sie im Text zum gleichen Bild die Textpassage: "Nehmen Sie jetzt den noch angeflanschten Motor, bestücken Sie wieder mit dem Stevenrohr und platzieren dei Einheit im Rumpf. In der Schiffslänge ist das Stevenrohr so anzuordnen, dass Sie von seinem hinteren Ende bis zum Heck 14 cm messen" finden. Dies bedeutet, dass, wenn Sie das Stevenrohr gemäß der Beschreibung zu Bild 07 in den Motorträger einsetzen, sich dadurch die Positionierung der Motoren zwangsläufig ergibt. BismarckLeserservice ___________________________________________________ here we'll give explanations and help for mounting the rc components in the next few weeks. possible problems will be discussed, solutions offered: 1. propshafts: if you're having problems putting the propshafts through the frames, note the following: the cut-outs are only 5mm, the propshaft has 6mm. we wrote preventive in text for picture 24 'discrepancies can be removed by filing'. this includes that you have to widen the cut-outs equally with a round file to 6mm. 2. positioning the motors: the sideways location of the propshafts (and the motors) automatically results from the location of the cut-outs in the frames, like marked in picture 24. ref the lenghtwise positioning, you'll find a text passage in the text for the same picture: 'take the still flanged motor, mount the propshaft on it and place this unit in the hull'. in the ship's length the propshaft has to be mounted until you measure 14cm from the propshaft's end to the stern. this means if you mount the propshaft in the motor tray according to the description of picture 07, the position of the motors necessarily results BISMARCK reader service NO COMMENT markus
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Post by bob on Oct 19, 2007 21:35:27 GMT 1
Well for those building using the Hatchette gear it would have been easier to enlarge the cutouts at an earlier stage, this reinforces the fact that this gear is definitely a little bit an afterthought .....
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Post by Mark on Oct 21, 2007 13:22:43 GMT 1
Hi Marcus, Do you know if the 6mm dia prop shaft is accurate - If it is I'm going to drill out my holes in the frames, then I can carry on planking.
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Post by markus on Oct 21, 2007 13:51:06 GMT 1
Hi Marcus, Do you know if the 6mm dia prop shaft is accurate - If it is I'm going to drill out my holes in the frames, then I can carry on planking. i heard that amati uses those 6mm/4mm propshafts but 6mm seems a bit too much for a scale drive don't know the exact diameter of the original shaft, but i think the diameter was 50-60cm. (maybe someone has plans and can tell us the exact diameter?) these 50-60cm of the original ship is 2,5-3mm in our model so these propshafts are ok as long as amati delivers propshafts where the outer 6mm tube ends within the hull (only the inner 4mm shaft 'leaves' the hull, like on the original bismarck) i don't think it's possible to drill a 6mm hole into the outer shaft supports (A-frames), that's why i used 4mm/2mm propshafts cheers markus
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Post by rem2007 on Oct 25, 2007 22:42:56 GMT 1
hi markus, i was going through the brouchure supplyed with issue 23 regarding the hachette rc gear offer, which by the way I will not be getting as discussed in pm. however, one , no two thoughts came to mind, first, the A frames for the propellers as per original are not in any preview i have seen yet, and second , neither are the propeller shaft housing thingies, ( word used by people in this part of england). would you be able to comment on these 2 items. like i need more sanding still plodding along on 23, did 24 and have up to 27 on the sideboard cheers mate robert
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Post by Mark on Oct 26, 2007 8:54:24 GMT 1
Hi Marcus, I've a question about your props and shaft postion. Did you arrange your prop shafts so that they are in the proper scale position, or are they where Amati designed the model. If they are in a scale position, can you still fit 30mm nylon props, or did you need a smaller prop.
The reason for asking is that I entend to use the Hachette runing gear, but I'm wondering if I can get the shafts and props in the right position. If I do that, what size prop can I install. I'm concerned that a scale prop of 23.5mm (maybe a 25mm brass prop) may not be big enough to drive the ship with only 2 props working.
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Post by markus on Oct 26, 2007 11:43:00 GMT 1
Hi Marcus, I've a question about your props and shaft postion. Did you arrange your prop shafts so that they are in the proper scale position, or are they where Amati designed the model. If they are in a scale position, can you still fit 30mm nylon props, or did you need a smaller prop. props and shafts are in correct scale position. 30mm props fit without problems... markus
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Post by markus on Oct 26, 2007 11:49:27 GMT 1
hi markus, i was going through the brouchure supplyed with issue 23 regarding the hachette rc gear offer, which by the way I will not be getting as discussed in pm. however, one , no two thoughts came to mind, first, the A frames for the propellers as per original are not in any preview i have seen yet, and second , neither are the propeller shaft housing thingies, ( word used by people in this part of england). would you be able to comment on these 2 items. like i need more sanding still plodding along on 23, did 24 and have up to 27 on the sideboard cheers mate robert both parts come with the regular issues.(for the static model) haven't seen them by now, but if we have to sand, then sanding has to be done on those parts itself cheers markus
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Post by markus on Oct 26, 2007 19:52:13 GMT 1
...I'm concerned that a scale prop of 23.5mm (maybe a 25mm brass prop) may not be big enough to drive the ship with only 2 props working. don't worry, mark - i'm sure that 2 props with 25mm are enough to give a good speed markus
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Post by eric on Oct 27, 2007 15:24:44 GMT 1
Hi Markus, is this how the two prop motor positioning is supposed to look? I've take down the frame the motors sit in to 3mm from the keel plate, is that enough? I'm not sure how to judge the correct angle for the motors. Not glued in place yet, by the way! Also, as you can see, I didn't like the Hachette servo position, so I moved it to the same as yours, with a little help from a Black&Decker power file!!
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Post by markus on Oct 27, 2007 15:50:51 GMT 1
hi eric ! i would widen the cut-outs for the motors a bit so they don't touch the frame. 3mm are a bit much - 1 or 2 mm are enough (thickness of a plank) i would suggest to widen the 5mm hole in the frame just behind the motors and to drill through the hull prior to gluing in the brackets really looking good so far markus p.s. just saw you used the original servo mounting piece - good idea !!
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Post by markus on Nov 2, 2007 19:39:29 GMT 1
for those who asked for a 4ch 40Mhz FM radio: price is 80 euro (approx 55 GBP) including 4ch receiver, battery box, switch and delivery
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Post by eric on Nov 3, 2007 18:29:46 GMT 1
What is the best way to hold the ESC's and reciever in place?
I guess gluing them in is a No No, so I wondered if you make a woodem frame to house them in?
Thanks eric.
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Post by markus on Nov 3, 2007 19:56:44 GMT 1
i glued controllers/receiver with white pva glue, so i can remove them again if necessary
the best way to fix them is a wooden frame with velcro tape in it...
markus
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