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Post by ph on Nov 6, 2007 23:13:23 GMT 1
This is from Firefly
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hi all
a good tip for sanding the hull is to use copper pipe insulation wraping the sand paper around first ,you know the stuff that plumbers use its very effective.
all the best
darren
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Post by popeye on Nov 7, 2007 17:51:01 GMT 1
In my local Homebase DIY I discovered a roll of fairly fine sandpaper (180 grit). The roll is about4 inches wide and several meters long. You cut of what you require and wrap it around a hand sander. This is a very cheap and efficient way of having a handy source for sanding down. Don't throw away the old paper as it becomes worn because this has a good worn-down surface that is equivalent to a much finer paper (about 500 grit) for fine work and finishing.
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Post by popeye on Nov 9, 2007 16:12:46 GMT 1
I have posted some more pictures showing my Bismarck to date. It shows the start of the second hull planking using the long mahogany strips, how I am fixing the middle propellor as a freewheeling (unpowered) prop, the fixing of the propshafts into the frames inside the boat, a sanding block and roll of sandpaper, plank bender, and how I have secured the decks using quick release quarter turn dzus screws. click on www.flickr.com/photos/commander-popeye/and either just scroll through the pictures or select the Bismarck as at 9 Nov 07 set. |
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sanding
Nov 14, 2007 10:47:33 GMT 1
Post by rick1138 on Nov 14, 2007 10:47:33 GMT 1
Thats some nice work Popeye.
Hmm i am now starting to feel the bite of an RC build, the only problem is i threw away the RC sheet that lest you buy it.....as it seemed rather expensive.
Can any RC boat motor work, i.e. a suitable outsourced type, i.e. from a model shop?
Although this means prying off my foredeck and glassfibring the hull, hmmmm.
Oh popeye same last anme as me!! we could be family lol, although as i am up in Aberdeen and have met several Rose's its unlikely!
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Post by tdcj on Jan 1, 2008 0:24:18 GMT 1
Any ideas on how I can sand a nice right-angle between the top of the armour belt and the single planking of the top of the hull (i.e. the inside of an 'L' shape'? My first second plank at this point slipped ever so slightly and unevenly so I can't add a simple strip on top, and I don't think I'd like to risk removing it as the glue is too strong and i don't want to have to remove the first plank here too...
Also, any ideas on a good wood filler with which I could build this up to join the top of the first planking?
Thanks
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Post by Mark on Jan 1, 2008 4:01:41 GMT 1
Well, you could try this trick. Take a scrap of ply with a nice straight edge. Size about 4 or 5 cm square. Now take some wet-n-dry or emery cloth. Quite fine, say 220 grit. Glue it to the ply with superglue, so it's overlapping the straight edge. Now take a craft knife, and trim the abrasive paper back to the straight edge. Voila !! You have a nice custom made sanding block whichh should (if you've done it right) sand right into the corner without marking the other leg of the L (if you see what I mean.)
I've glue two different grades on my bit o ply. 80 grit on one side, 220 on the other whihc makes it perfect for sanding the upper armour belt.
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Post by tdcj on Jan 1, 2008 13:19:59 GMT 1
Thanks Mark.
I've been really vexed by this because I made such an effor to get a perfect match, even going so far as to clamp planks above the armour belt to butt-up against it when it went on. I was mortified to find it had slipped (between the plankning clamps) giving a lovely uneven line :-(
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Post by david on Jan 2, 2008 23:07:13 GMT 1
Any ideas on how I can sand a nice right-angle between the top of the armour belt and the single planking of the top of the hull (i.e. the inside of an 'L' shape'? Properly speaking there shouldn't be a right angle 'L shape' between the two layers of belt armour, but a 45-degree angle instead. I'm thinking of using filler for this, then making a Mark-style tool to gently sand it to shape. David |
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Post by tdcj on Jan 2, 2008 23:41:12 GMT 1
45-degrees? Brilliant! Problem solved!!!
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Post by tdcj on Jan 2, 2008 23:50:21 GMT 1
By the way, what filler would you use?
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Post by Mark on Jan 3, 2008 2:07:49 GMT 1
I use car body filler. Davids P-something-or-other available from Halfords. The fine filler for finishing. Goes off in about 20 mins, so there is a reasonable working time. One word of caution, PVA wood glue doesn't stick to it !! Super glue is fine though, as is Araldite.
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