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Post by viking on Mar 2, 2008 2:46:51 GMT 1
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2008 3:21:39 GMT 1
Wonder if they could be used for the turrets on Bismarck and for the radars, assuming the radars actually did rotate. ?
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Post by viking on Mar 2, 2008 3:50:21 GMT 1
They could be used for radar should think it revolved but do not have the fogeist the motors do move slowly i am going to try to use then to turn the turrets may not have the guns elevate as i have not the space ore equipment to do the work
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Post by viking on Mar 6, 2008 6:52:54 GMT 1
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Post by viking on Mar 8, 2008 18:00:51 GMT 1
first port holes put in and ready for painting tths is after about 6hours work they are cut from 1/8x.014 brass tube around 3-4 mil long
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Post by trevor on Mar 8, 2008 18:44:10 GMT 1
Hi Viking, Those port holes look very impressive, where did you get them as I just might do the same with mine.
Trevor
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Post by afkmatrix on Mar 8, 2008 19:23:42 GMT 1
Hi Viking, Nice I like that. I was thinking of using Eyelets but looking at that it seems round brass is fine. Would this 1/8 dia brass tube be ok from here: www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/Brass_Tube.htmlDid you just cut 3-4mm bit from the pipes or did you flatten the end or anything?
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Post by viking on Mar 9, 2008 2:54:56 GMT 1
not very good at explaining thing in writing but hear gos The port holes are round brass tube 1/8x.014 stock#127 i got mine from Cropper's Models in Bridlington think he has web site will check . First shape the end of the tube. Then with a Stanley knife cut off a piece 3-4 mil long when cut hold in pin vice ruff end showing and file flat then file the cut end of the tube flat and shape then cut the next 3-4 mil bit. To cut the tub with a Stanley put tube on flat cutting board and roll backward and forward with the knife the tub you should bee able to get from most model shops you have to drill the port holes out to 3mil the shaped end helps the tube to be pushed in but you have to be very carefull if the holes are close together drill one put the port hole in then do the second. Hope you can under stand this one
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Post by afkmatrix on Mar 9, 2008 3:10:54 GMT 1
Yep I get what you mean Viking. Do you put the shaped end in first though or is that the piece that shows on the outside of the hull?
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Post by viking on Mar 9, 2008 3:20:47 GMT 1
to glaze then if you can get to the back of the p.h put sellotape across them if not before you fit then pack tin foil in to the base of the p.h then when all in the ship fill with epoxy resin .It is best to mix a little at a time and put in to p.h with a pin or sim ps paint before glazing
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Post by viking on Mar 9, 2008 3:21:52 GMT 1
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Post by trevor on Mar 9, 2008 14:09:11 GMT 1
Hi Viking, I am definitely going to do my port holes like that, excellent explanation.
Thankyou
Trevor
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Post by Mark on Mar 10, 2008 8:45:34 GMT 1
I was going to use brass inserts to line to port holes. However, I'm going to block up the inboard end of the brass tube somehow to make it water proof. With about 100 port holes to do I need a cunning plan, that may well involve a three jawed chuck and some superglue. Oh, and a lot of patience
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Post by BF on Mar 10, 2008 9:43:38 GMT 1
I'm not at all familiar with materials for modeling but it wouldn't at all surprise me if there was some kind of clear plastic doweling available which could be used. If a gauge could be found which fitted precisely inside the brass tubing, the technique might be to put the entire length of plastic inside the brass. Then cut the porthole sections with the plastic and brass at the same time. This would produce a very clean result. One could preglue the plastic dowel into the brass tubing which would mean that there was no risk of the cut pieces having any untidy glue marks or residue on them. If there were cutting abrasions, these could be buffed off with a sander with a buffing attachment so that the result would be almost transparent. Another advantage of this would be that the plastic inner would reinforce the brass during the cutting and prevent and distorting of the circular shape of the brass porthole.
Does any of this work?
Also, I like very much the idea of having some backlighting behind the portholes which would look as if the cabins are actually in use (obviously not during any operational status). Does this work?
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Post by viking on Mar 10, 2008 13:10:34 GMT 1
I'm not at all familiar with materials for modeling but it wouldn't at all surprise] that would work but you are dealing with very small bits. That have to be painted over and if they are glazed before they are put in to the hull you have one hell of a job paining around the glue can be got of the hull much more ease than trying to get paint of the port hole or scupper believe me i have tried good aider all the same if you can get the rod in after painting.
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