Post by swanrail on Nov 30, 2007 14:17:03 GMT 1
Here is my method of installing the second planking.
You will need: a sharp craft knife or scalpel, a steel rule, a cutting mat, sand paper, clear adhesive tape, pins or clamps. Note that it is advisable to pencil in a centre line right round the hull. It is also important that the first layer of planking is as smooth and accurate as you can make it, the second set will not cover up such defects!
Note that second planking is easier, becauseyou can glue the whole of the underside and one edge give a good grab effect, unlike the first coat where one is restricted by only gluing to the frames and the one edge.
Starting the hull as per the instructions, I fitted the first set of planks using the supplied 300mm lengths.
These were held in place while the glue set with brass panel pins. This was necessary due to the curvature of the hull "springing"the plank straight.
This was carried on until the bilge keel was reached. This was then fitted and the side pieces attached.
At this point, I switched to 1m lengths of planking. The first layer above the bilge keel was cut into two on the marked pencil centre line. This plank was then fitted fore and aft, but it was noted that due to the curvature in both planes, it was quite hard to fix into place (note it is most important that the planks are securely fastened all the way along with no air gaps).
To ease the curve, I then fitted a stealer into the centre section:
The second plank was then fitted, again with difficulty. At this point, I changed the method such that I put in a second stealer above the first one to permit a long straight section. This then allowed me to fit all the remaining bottom planks dead straight with no pressure on them,.
The meant that each plank needed to be trimmed to fit the original curved one.
Technique:
Lay the new plank in its proper position, mark it with pencil to aligh with the hull pencil line, and temp hold it in place with sellotape. At one end, mark on the new plank where it crosses the plank below on the bottom edge. Also mark where it crosses the plank below on the top edge.
Remove the plank, and on the cutting mat, cut a line between the two marks. Refit and this end should fit perfectly. Do the same the other end, and then glue into place. Carry on with this to cover the hull.
Note that as there is no pressure on the new plank, it can be held in place purely with sellotape for about the 10 minutes that the Evostik wood glue grabs (but remember it takes a full 24 hours to completely set).
At the finish, you might well need a few more stealers, I did!! Any small gaps can be filled with wood filler, and then the whole hull sanded down. This should be minimal and the planking is easier to set level providing the first layer is correct.
Gluing technique: use an artists brush to paint on the wood glu the whole length of the new plank directly onto the first layer, make sure that it is forced into the side of the old plank and that it is slightly wider than the new plank. Also note that it is best to lay it on quite thick, or else one end will start to dry and lose adhesion before you reach the other end: Force the new plank tight against the old plank until the glue oozes out of the gap, and hold in place with the sellotape. Also make sure that the pencil marks align!! - else very shortly you can not reset the plank without damaging it as the glue sets quickly!!
Second planking up against the resin part: Note the small gaps waiting to be filled!!
and against the stern (new part 70)
Finished hull:
also on here you can see the remnants of the aligning pencil marks.
You will need: a sharp craft knife or scalpel, a steel rule, a cutting mat, sand paper, clear adhesive tape, pins or clamps. Note that it is advisable to pencil in a centre line right round the hull. It is also important that the first layer of planking is as smooth and accurate as you can make it, the second set will not cover up such defects!
Note that second planking is easier, becauseyou can glue the whole of the underside and one edge give a good grab effect, unlike the first coat where one is restricted by only gluing to the frames and the one edge.
Starting the hull as per the instructions, I fitted the first set of planks using the supplied 300mm lengths.
These were held in place while the glue set with brass panel pins. This was necessary due to the curvature of the hull "springing"the plank straight.
This was carried on until the bilge keel was reached. This was then fitted and the side pieces attached.
At this point, I switched to 1m lengths of planking. The first layer above the bilge keel was cut into two on the marked pencil centre line. This plank was then fitted fore and aft, but it was noted that due to the curvature in both planes, it was quite hard to fix into place (note it is most important that the planks are securely fastened all the way along with no air gaps).
To ease the curve, I then fitted a stealer into the centre section:
The second plank was then fitted, again with difficulty. At this point, I changed the method such that I put in a second stealer above the first one to permit a long straight section. This then allowed me to fit all the remaining bottom planks dead straight with no pressure on them,.
The meant that each plank needed to be trimmed to fit the original curved one.
Technique:
Lay the new plank in its proper position, mark it with pencil to aligh with the hull pencil line, and temp hold it in place with sellotape. At one end, mark on the new plank where it crosses the plank below on the bottom edge. Also mark where it crosses the plank below on the top edge.
Remove the plank, and on the cutting mat, cut a line between the two marks. Refit and this end should fit perfectly. Do the same the other end, and then glue into place. Carry on with this to cover the hull.
Note that as there is no pressure on the new plank, it can be held in place purely with sellotape for about the 10 minutes that the Evostik wood glue grabs (but remember it takes a full 24 hours to completely set).
At the finish, you might well need a few more stealers, I did!! Any small gaps can be filled with wood filler, and then the whole hull sanded down. This should be minimal and the planking is easier to set level providing the first layer is correct.
Gluing technique: use an artists brush to paint on the wood glu the whole length of the new plank directly onto the first layer, make sure that it is forced into the side of the old plank and that it is slightly wider than the new plank. Also note that it is best to lay it on quite thick, or else one end will start to dry and lose adhesion before you reach the other end: Force the new plank tight against the old plank until the glue oozes out of the gap, and hold in place with the sellotape. Also make sure that the pencil marks align!! - else very shortly you can not reset the plank without damaging it as the glue sets quickly!!
Second planking up against the resin part: Note the small gaps waiting to be filled!!
and against the stern (new part 70)
Finished hull:
also on here you can see the remnants of the aligning pencil marks.