Post by swanrail on Nov 22, 2007 19:38:44 GMT 1
Here are my thoughts of planking for those never involved before, hope it helps:
Background;
My earlier models came with printed deck planks, which spoilt the look of the model. It was with horror that I saw that Hachette are supplying such decks for the Bismarck.
With my older ones, I was able to overlay the printed planks with “real” ones. With this model, as the decks must be kept thin to allow fitting of the etched parts, this is not possible.
Therefore, I am fitting new decks straight ontop of the original decks.
By research, I calculated that the planks should be 0.8mm wide. Unfortunately, standard thickness of planks are either 0.6mm or 1mm.
My first trial run was on the topmost deck (the simplest) using 0.6mm planks, but although they looked fine, they suffer from being hard to fit, and very hard to mark into lengths. In view of the main deck being very large to plank, I then went for 1mm planks, which I trial fitted on the first deck at the stern. The results of these trials can be seen below:
To start planking as a newcomer:
You will need:
Note that a scalpel with very sharp blades is mandatory, the circle cutter of needed for round profiles, the steel ruler to cut straight lines. A quick setting waterproof wood glue should be used (such as Evostik weatherproof wood glue). And plenty of patience.
Before starting in earnest, you should practice by making a small deck. My picture shows wood part from an earlier issue (the leftover bits). I would recommend using the oval shaped cut-out as a template for one of the exercises.
Test piece 1.
Take some scrap ply, or thick card. Glue onto it a rectangle of about 40mm by 20mm, being the peripheral made up of planks about 5mm by 1.5mm left over from first planking.
When dry, use some more gash planks as above, and paint one edge black:
Lay the plank when dry, over the long side (40mm), with one end butting up against the inside of one of the 20mm edges, then cut through the other end slightly longer than the other 20mm edge.
Cut the 5mm plank in half longitudinally so that you have 2 pieces approx. 40mm by 2.5mm.
Glue these into the inside of the rectangle with the black side always on the same side. If fractionally too long, run down carefully with sandpaper until a good fit.
Repeat this until the rectangle is full, making sure that each plank is glued on its bottom as well as its side. Push tight against the previous plank, and hold for a few seconds until the glue grabs strongly enough to keep in place. Excess glue is wiped off with a tissue.
When complete, allow to dry and then sand down so that the whole top surface is level, and you will find a planked deck with nice looking caulking!!
Test piece 2
Here you will need to cut a hole in some thick card (easier of thin ply) using a suitable oval shaped template from the old scrap piece from the earlier issue.
Behind this hole, glue some more thick card of ply to make an oval shape hole.
Running parallel to the longest side, take the prepainted planks as before, fit the first plank in the centre measuring as for part 1. Next plank needs to set along side it, but notice that its bottom and top ends are sloped to follow the curve. To do this, cut slightly oversize as before, then carefully sand to the correct bevel before gluing into place.
Repeat this on each side until you come to the last plank, here it is most likely that the overall length of the plank needs to be gently curved in profile to be able to slot into the vacant space, some patience is needed!!
Again, when dry, sand down!
My first attempt using 0.6mm thick planks:
and the second trial using 1mm thick planks:
How to make the second version will be posted under a new thread REAL DECKS
Background;
My earlier models came with printed deck planks, which spoilt the look of the model. It was with horror that I saw that Hachette are supplying such decks for the Bismarck.
With my older ones, I was able to overlay the printed planks with “real” ones. With this model, as the decks must be kept thin to allow fitting of the etched parts, this is not possible.
Therefore, I am fitting new decks straight ontop of the original decks.
By research, I calculated that the planks should be 0.8mm wide. Unfortunately, standard thickness of planks are either 0.6mm or 1mm.
My first trial run was on the topmost deck (the simplest) using 0.6mm planks, but although they looked fine, they suffer from being hard to fit, and very hard to mark into lengths. In view of the main deck being very large to plank, I then went for 1mm planks, which I trial fitted on the first deck at the stern. The results of these trials can be seen below:
To start planking as a newcomer:
You will need:
Note that a scalpel with very sharp blades is mandatory, the circle cutter of needed for round profiles, the steel ruler to cut straight lines. A quick setting waterproof wood glue should be used (such as Evostik weatherproof wood glue). And plenty of patience.
Before starting in earnest, you should practice by making a small deck. My picture shows wood part from an earlier issue (the leftover bits). I would recommend using the oval shaped cut-out as a template for one of the exercises.
Test piece 1.
Take some scrap ply, or thick card. Glue onto it a rectangle of about 40mm by 20mm, being the peripheral made up of planks about 5mm by 1.5mm left over from first planking.
When dry, use some more gash planks as above, and paint one edge black:
Lay the plank when dry, over the long side (40mm), with one end butting up against the inside of one of the 20mm edges, then cut through the other end slightly longer than the other 20mm edge.
Cut the 5mm plank in half longitudinally so that you have 2 pieces approx. 40mm by 2.5mm.
Glue these into the inside of the rectangle with the black side always on the same side. If fractionally too long, run down carefully with sandpaper until a good fit.
Repeat this until the rectangle is full, making sure that each plank is glued on its bottom as well as its side. Push tight against the previous plank, and hold for a few seconds until the glue grabs strongly enough to keep in place. Excess glue is wiped off with a tissue.
When complete, allow to dry and then sand down so that the whole top surface is level, and you will find a planked deck with nice looking caulking!!
Test piece 2
Here you will need to cut a hole in some thick card (easier of thin ply) using a suitable oval shaped template from the old scrap piece from the earlier issue.
Behind this hole, glue some more thick card of ply to make an oval shape hole.
Running parallel to the longest side, take the prepainted planks as before, fit the first plank in the centre measuring as for part 1. Next plank needs to set along side it, but notice that its bottom and top ends are sloped to follow the curve. To do this, cut slightly oversize as before, then carefully sand to the correct bevel before gluing into place.
Repeat this on each side until you come to the last plank, here it is most likely that the overall length of the plank needs to be gently curved in profile to be able to slot into the vacant space, some patience is needed!!
Again, when dry, sand down!
My first attempt using 0.6mm thick planks:
and the second trial using 1mm thick planks:
How to make the second version will be posted under a new thread REAL DECKS