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Post by nemesis on Aug 16, 2007 0:25:56 GMT 1
I'm never gonna remember all this. I got the memory of a goldfish.
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Post by yoddhâ on Aug 16, 2007 10:22:39 GMT 1
Just a small tip for when we get to the brass etchings spray them with etch primer first you will get a much better finish and a more durable one. Having done quite a bit of car body work in the past this is exactly what you need; you will also need to make sure that the surface is completely free from contaminants like fingerprints. Use isopropanol to clean the surfaces first and use lint free cloths and everthing should be OK. Cliff
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Post by southendnick on Aug 16, 2007 23:10:30 GMT 1
Etch Primer is the way to go, even more so as spraying will give a far better coat, more smooth and no brush lines. Will have to see if I can use some of the Boeing Green etch primer as used on aircraft that we have in out store. An airbrush is something I need to invest in but instead of getting the gas bottles that frost up and probably run out at the worst possible time I will go for a Mini Compressor as well. These dont look too bad... www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/airbrush-compressor.htmlJust completed a course on Paint Evolution, Surface Preperation & Finishing to City & Guilds Standards just waiting to hear if I passed.
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Post by nemesis on Aug 17, 2007 0:48:18 GMT 1
I dunno if I can justify spending that kinna money so i can paint a model. Would it be allright if those of us without air brushes just sent our models to you for painting? I'm sure we could all just form an orderly queue.
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Post by Mark on Aug 17, 2007 10:26:40 GMT 1
Halford's white car primer sticks remarkably well to brass etchings, even though it isn't an etch primer. You get good results, but the paint is a little thick and will cover fine detail. I used it on the Titanic and got good results. You can get a thinner coat of paint with an airbrush tho
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Post by southendnick on Aug 17, 2007 13:29:05 GMT 1
Etch Primer is the way to go, even more so as spraying will give a far better coat, more smooth and no brush lines. Will have to see if I can use some of the Boeing Green etch primer as used on aircraft that we have in out store. An airbrush is something I need to invest in but instead of getting the gas bottles that frost up and probably run out at the worst possible time I will go for a Mini Compressor as well. These dont look too bad... www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/airbrush-compressor.htmlJust completed a course on Paint Evolution, Surface Preperation & Finishing to City & Guilds Standards just waiting to hear if I passed. Really? Give us your address on here and expect a 30 tonner Eddie Stobart truck outside your door in about 6 months time filled to the top with ready to paint Bismarck hulls for you. Open mouth slam both feet in close mouth chew... Rember to use a de-greaser on amy metal you are going to have to paint, Thinners, Turps or White Spirit will get rid of any thing that could cause the paint to fail rember to let it dry before you paint though. Painting a model is one of the jobs I hate as if something go's wrong its very hard to put right.
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Post by yoddhâ on Aug 17, 2007 14:37:21 GMT 1
I would recommend isopropanol wipes and/or spray as used in the electronics & car body repair industry instead of thinners etc. It isn't so messy and the alcohol evaporates taking a lot of the contaminants with it also you don't have to dry the parts or wait so long for the parts to air dry ;D
Cliff
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Post by bob on Aug 17, 2007 19:43:10 GMT 1
I use isoproponal at work its very good. One word of warning use some disposable gloves as it is a very good degreaser and could irritate your skin. Also use in a ventilated area as the fumes could affect a bad chest.
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Post by Achtung!! on Aug 21, 2007 8:11:38 GMT 1
Built almost 3/4 of the deck now - but i found it rocks quite badly - almost 3 mm - any ideas.
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Post by gordon on Aug 21, 2007 13:05:40 GMT 1
Chill
I had the same problem so I put a packer underneath, weighted it down at both ends and laid a damp cloth over it. After 12hrs all was ship-shape..
Gordon..
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Post by Achtung!! on Aug 21, 2007 13:19:22 GMT 1
Ta for the tip - I will give it a og this weekend
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Post by Achtung!! on Aug 24, 2007 21:12:12 GMT 1
got another issue guys - on issue 19 now with the main deck pieces over the bow. Dry fitted them on the boat with the removable deck on. The line of the deck as it stands is not a straight continous line. IE theres a 'step' in from the removable deck to the edge of the deck pices. Anyone else got this problem?
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Post by trev on Aug 28, 2007 13:46:06 GMT 1
Just thought I would add this to the mix.
If any parts need a nice metalic looking finish be it bronze silver gold etc then you may consider using "games workshop" paint.
It works well on metal plastic wood and just about everything else.
This is the paint that is used for painting minatures for table top battle scenes.
What is even better that the metalics come in a variety of shades and this works out great for drybrushing to simulate rust or wear and tear on parts.
Trev
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Post by Mark on Aug 28, 2007 15:57:40 GMT 1
Hi Chill, Do you mean that the planks are slightly thicker than the ply deck pieces ? I have teh same problem. Not really a problem. Just sand it flush with some medium or coarse sandpaper and a sanding block. (more sawdust for the missus to complain about )
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Post by nm on Apr 1, 2008 22:55:02 GMT 1
Southendnick:
Did you get your painting certificate OK?
(I've just been looking at the Deck Painting thread.)
NM
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