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Post by stargateian on Oct 5, 2007 12:26:19 GMT 1
Hey all, Just reading through all the posts. Well the Gauzing was for strength and I did it. I used a high strength gauze and evostik wood resin waterproof glue that is used to glue wood floors together. Worked a treat. Its super strong so when i sand and press on the hull it doesnt move abit. Im going to varnish the inside with Ronseal Yacht Varnish. I used this on my gates and let me tell you the stuf is 100% waterproof and looks great. Also for even more protection after one layer of varnish you could coat it in wood glue again. Me though im going to just go with the varnish
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Post by russ on Oct 8, 2007 10:30:14 GMT 1
ive finally decided what to use, i was rumagin around my shead and found some very stong pva glue so i am going to use 3 coats of this on its own
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Post by brian on Nov 4, 2007 14:07:21 GMT 1
I am somewhere behind the builders in the UK, but having completed the planking I have looked into the gauzing.
I have decided to use the fibreglass tape used for joining plaster board and resin. Think this will keep everything looking really smart.
Also I have decided to re-enforce the forward section as I intend this model to be R/C.
The way I did this was to drill 2 holes on part 35 to gain access to the void between frames 32/31 and 31/30 then fill all the areas between frame 32 and 27 with low expanding foam. It got a little messy but am pleased with the results and now have a very sterdy front end with little increase in weight to this area
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ian
New recruit
Posts: 2
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Post by ian on Nov 6, 2007 11:28:26 GMT 1
Hi , first time poster but been on this from the start. I have noticed some of the worrying comments ref the gauzing but I have been using waterproof Evo with gauze bandage and have not problems what-soever. I am concerned if this is intended as a waterproofing as this seems near impssible to achieve especially at the bow. Completing the deck now and looking ominously at the additional deck planking ??
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Post by Achtung!! on Nov 6, 2007 11:32:48 GMT 1
Welcome to the board Ian.
I share your ominous looks on the second planks!!I have stashed out of sight very quickly so i can sleep at nights!!
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Post by swanrail on Nov 6, 2007 21:53:51 GMT 1
So far I have fixed about 6 second layer planks on each side. It has been easier than the first set, because we now have a much larger surface area holding glue (full length of planks and sides), and providing the hull is smoothed down correctly, the line is easier to follow than with the frames. I use Evo-stik weatherproof wood adhesive, which is initially quite quick setting (minutes) so give time to adjust, but then grabs well on the large glued area. Note that it takes a full 24 hours to achieve full strength though, so still be carefull!
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Post by stargateian on Nov 7, 2007 9:15:53 GMT 1
Hey swanrail, I use the very same glue and its brilliant stuff. Perfect for this build
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Post by Achtung!! on Nov 7, 2007 10:47:59 GMT 1
I assume it is the same as I use- the stuff in a blue bottle?
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Post by stargateian on Nov 7, 2007 11:28:05 GMT 1
Dats the very one. Stronger than the wood itself, or so they say. Oh for glueing the resin parts in I would recommend a glue called Adralite. Its a two part resin mixture that is super strong and quick setting. Used it once on a model air compressor and well let me tell you it took a blow torch at 600 degrees C a good while to get rid of that stuff. And its cheap. Bout €10 for a tube so about £7
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Post by Mark on Nov 7, 2007 12:26:44 GMT 1
Araldite is great, but the slow setting stuff is best. Called Araldite Precision I think. Takes 24 hours to set, but give a MUCH stronger and more ridgid bond than quick set epoxys.
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Post by Achtung!! on Nov 7, 2007 13:01:14 GMT 1
Is that newest one that has been launched? Where the two parts are mixed in the long nozzle?
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Post by swanrail on Nov 7, 2007 22:50:08 GMT 1
The original one of many many years ago was the slow setting one, then everyone got carried away with the quick setting one, which as Marks says, is not so good. Tried to buy the original in tube form, but my local hardware shop only stocks the twin tube dispenser, which I find a bit of a pain to keep the two parts even. See issue 37 says to glue part 195 with two part epoxy resin - should be fun as the slow setting one it is imperative that the parts are supported in place for some considerable time to allow the glue to set. - not going to be easy with the shape of 195!!
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Post by Mark on Nov 8, 2007 4:01:48 GMT 1
I managed to get some in proper tubes - from B&Q if I recall.
Part 196 could well be fun. Planking clamps look like a good idea - or maybe pins/modelling nails ? How about big rubber bands ? The soaking in hot water and letting dry in place first could also be a good idea.
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Post by stargateian on Nov 8, 2007 9:22:15 GMT 1
You might be right with the slow setting being better. My local hardware does the slow set in a double barrel syringe that has one plunger so the mixture is perfectly even. Ive also seen it in B&Q so should be easy enough to get a hold of. Using it on this build will be fun indeed.
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Post by rick1138 on Nov 12, 2007 16:52:39 GMT 1
This is a bit of a noob question but its playing on my mind.
As i am building this model as a Static display piece only, definetly not as an RC build, do i have to caulk the model at all?
as the hull will be getting a second set of planking (shudder) and many coats of primer\paint to give a high quality finish?
Cheers guys
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