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Post by rod on Jan 3, 2009 9:02:33 GMT 1
Happy new year to all from Australia. I've been on holidays so what better way to spend it than working on the Bismarck. In Australia we're up to issue 75 - at least I am anyway. Finally got the rear superstructure close to finished. Wasn't too bad a build, some of the walls on the lowest level were a bit of a pain to curve around. Here's some progress pictures: Note nothing is stuck together yet, its all just sitting loose. That will come later.. much later... The mast comes next.. that will be a doozey.. anyway its nice to see the others coming along, those motorissed turrets are just brilliant. cheers Rod
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2009 10:11:51 GMT 1
Looking good Rod, my Bismarck along with my other builds is dead in the water for now. Construction will start again soon.
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Post by swanrail on Jan 3, 2009 13:33:18 GMT 1
Looks very good Rod. Cannot get over how neat and tidy your worktop is, I am too ashamed to show mine!!!!
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Post by russ on Jan 3, 2009 19:02:20 GMT 1
very neet and tidy build there, keep up the good work with it all
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Post by david on Jan 3, 2009 22:08:54 GMT 1
Good looking model you have there Rod, let me be the first to bestow some 'k' upon you!
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Post by rem2007 on Jan 3, 2009 22:24:46 GMT 1
yes, very nice Rod, just finished abit of time off, back in on Monday. Cold here in the UK, so the missus and I just booked a week in Gran Canaria...sounds nice and warm. Back to my builds Monday nite...barring the daughter didn't break anything whilst home for Xmas. The mast is fairly straightforwadr, but go slow, as it can be fragile...
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Post by rod on Jan 4, 2009 12:54:35 GMT 1
Thanks guys. I've been thinking about how to make the details stand out more and I might try a very light wash over the surface to see if I can add some shadow lines to bring out the relief a bit more. I wouldn't normally do it on a ship, but at this scale when painted, it seems a bit plain.
Anyone had any ideas?
cheers
Rod
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Post by david on Jan 4, 2009 17:42:12 GMT 1
Rod, since as you said, you haven't stuck anything down yet you might want to try what I did with the ventilator outlets. Firstly, I painted the valleys between the ventilator blades black. It doesn't matter if you overpaint areas around the ventilators. I then sprayed these same areas the finishing colour but at a very steep vertical angle of about 60 degrees. This will coat the upper surfaces of the blades only, leaving the black valleys untouched. This gives a reasonably good impression of relief. The top coat will also deal with the overpainted surrounding areas. For the thin conduits that run along the side walls I'm experimenting with a 6B pencil; if you make a mistake with this you can erase the graphite using a cotton bud dipped in lighter fluid. Good luck
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Post by Achtung!! on Jan 4, 2009 18:19:19 GMT 1
My work area is organised chaos!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2009 1:19:55 GMT 1
Interesting idea david. Might have to try that. LoL Chill, thats the best way isn't it. ;D ;D ;D What colour greys are people using.
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Post by rod on Jan 5, 2009 2:01:34 GMT 1
David your idea sounds interesting, any chance you can post some pics to give me an idea on how it came out?
Skyfire, I have been using the White Knight Light Grey Super Primer from Bunnings for all my coats. It seems to be about the right colour from photo's I have seen.
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Post by poulw on Feb 28, 2009 5:35:11 GMT 1
Skyfire, I have been using the White Knight Light Grey Super Primer from Bunnings for all my coats. It seems to be about the right colour from photo's I have seen. A bit of feedback: I ran out of my cheap "Paint" Enamel, Grey Primer, from Supercheap Auto (AU$2.95/can), and tried the "White Knight" Light Grey Super Primer from Bunnings you mentioned. Not a good result It sprays far too much primer, so most of the fine details that I spent hours to create, filled up with paint even with just a quick spray. I think the "White Knight" Super Primer would be excellent for priming the hull where you sand afterward, but for brass bits and other parts with fine details I would not recommend it, and for my part I'll definitely go back to the "cheap stuff" from Supercheap Auto again for those parts.
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Post by tigerace on Mar 2, 2009 18:42:55 GMT 1
hi rod look`s great hope mine look`s as good ;D
tigerace
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Post by rod on Apr 12, 2009 23:51:33 GMT 1
Things progressingly nicely again now, after a small break. I like many others had modellers block for a while but I had the urge last weekend and this easter break to get stuck back into it. Once I started again, I couldn't stop, now I've gone and done all that brasswork and got to the plastic sprue with all the ammo lockers and other things on it. Are these things meant to test us or what?? This has to go under the John McEnroe category of YOU CAN NOT BE SERIOUS!! - look how small these damn things are - what are they anyway... deck lights?? Anyway, more pictures soon , just thought I'd share my frustration with how small these things are with everyone else who hasn't got this far yet. cheers Rod PS Markus, do you have any of those railings left and how much woul dit be to get them to Australia in AUD?
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Post by Baz on Apr 13, 2009 5:15:24 GMT 1
Hi Rod
I must admit I am very disappointed with the plastic sprue from issue 83, considering the delicate detail of the 'brass bits'.
I haven't attacked them yet, but agree with your John McEnroe comment.
I'm jumping about here, but I had to pop down to work for a while and rushed away before answering all questions about the compressor and airbrush connections. It would seem all compressor / compressed air accessories use 1/4" connectors. My airbrush had a 1/4" female connector that screwed straight on. I checked a couple of other airbrushes and they have 1/4" connections too, so no problems there.
Baz
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