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Post by napoleon on Jul 24, 2007 19:08:26 GMT 1
I can't give a definate answer to the bowing of the hull, but I kept my keel screwed down during the planking and left it so for a good few days afterwards. I'm pleased to say that my hull is as flat as a pancake! smug sod aint I? However, whatever, hope those of you with the problem resolve it.
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Post by rwclancer on Jul 24, 2007 19:14:11 GMT 1
Thank you all for your advise. I will get this problem sorted. Just another quickie, I have been looking at the instructions 26/07-10 and the maths do not add up with the illustrations. How many planks should get me to the point in illustration 10?
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Post by swanrail on Jul 24, 2007 21:15:04 GMT 1
With the keel completely flat, the bow and stern should rise (shown clearly on the fly sheet given with issue 1). Compared to bow and stern, they rise by 4mm compared to the middle of the ship on my model. This is normal with all ships down the ages. If the centre is higher than the bow and stern, this means a serious buiilding problem and possibly due to the frames not being seated fully home? The Anatomoy of the Bismarck drawings show this central sag quite clearly. It also shows a camber across the hull (port to starboard) which most ships have to help water drainage. So far, the model does not seem to have this.
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Post by swanrail on Jul 24, 2007 21:20:35 GMT 1
With ref the first planking, this should be as smooth and accurate as possible. The second planking is then glued over this, but not necessarily overlapping exactly plank by plank. Hence make sure the second coat fits all the resin parts as described in the instructions and forget the first layer! Note that greater care must be taken with the second layer such as gaps between the planks (not such a good idea to use filler here), but even so, with a painted hull much can be covered by paint!!! (purists building period models often leave the second planking unpainted and just varnished, then the slightest defect is readily apparent).
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Post by napoleon on Jul 24, 2007 22:01:23 GMT 1
For rwclancer - To get to 26/10 should take 12 planks (6 each side). I assume that you may have included the test plank used as a test strip for alignment which could be counted as 2 extra planks? This test plank does not count in the scheme of things so the answer is definately 12 planks as i've already said. Hope this makes sense.
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Post by eric on Jul 25, 2007 15:13:18 GMT 1
I have a lesser .5mm lift in the middle of my hull like Mark. I thought I might be able to sand the bow area down just a little to sit the model flat, but I am not sure how this might affect the resin bow if I do too much. Also I have one or two planks that are in places sitting in from the others,creating a dip, so I shall have to fill them. I have many times used Milliput to fill plastic model gaps and reproduce a zimmerit effect on tanks, it is very smooth and sands well. Any good for this job?
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Post by rwclancer on Jul 25, 2007 19:49:30 GMT 1
I have just reached the final planks a-midships before they join the bottom. The force required to bend them to shape is considerable and the pins keep popping out. Is there any way to make the plank more subtle?
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Post by napoleon on Jul 25, 2007 20:58:40 GMT 1
for rwclancer - the easiest way I found to fix this problem, was to make 3 fine saw cuts almost across the width of the planks and this enables you to bend and fix them with little or no pressure. Once sanded down these cuts hardly notice and a bit of filler and/or the second layer of planking will hide them anyway.
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Post by Achtung!! on Jul 25, 2007 21:04:47 GMT 1
Just had to strip back one side of my keel planking as it was all going a bit Pete Tong
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Post by bob on Jul 25, 2007 21:17:48 GMT 1
Have noticed that the bottom of my bow section and the bottom of my keel just forward of part D is slightly lower than the rest of the Hull bottom. This results in a slight side to side rock and the central Hull bottom is up about 0.25 mm. I am not too worried I can either sand a little extra off fore and aft or wait until the second layer goes on and correct it then. the latter would be the easiest cos I could use slightly thicker [planks on the flat hull bottom section sanding them down until the Hull is stable.
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Post by ph on Jul 25, 2007 23:02:51 GMT 1
Hello All You have lost me now on wot you are talking about,Can you send a pic or a drewing for me so i can see wot you meen cheers paul As for my planking im getting there slowly,looks a dit rubbish but time its sanded it should be ok,I also clamped my build to a peace of shelf to keep it flat wile i plank the sides.hope i did the rite thing.
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Post by eric on Jul 25, 2007 23:09:22 GMT 1
Hi ph, what we mean is, if you put bismarck down on a flat surface only the bow and stern is in contact with it, there will be a small gap under the middle of the hull, and it will rock from side to side. I like bob's idea of slightly thicker planks in the middle to thicken it up.
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Post by ph on Jul 25, 2007 23:20:07 GMT 1
Hello Eric Cheers, i get it now thank you, Will i get this problem aswell,As i sed i clamped my keel to a peace of shelf to keep it flat till i plank all the sides from stern to bow as far as i can to the bottom and the ill take the clamps of to plank the bottom of the ship cheers paul
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Post by eric on Jul 25, 2007 23:23:55 GMT 1
Dunno, some hulls seem to bend the other way, with the bow and stern rising, and that would be better. Of course, some lucky sods have PERFECT hulls Ggrrrrrrr......
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Post by Mark on Jul 26, 2007 3:17:08 GMT 1
My hull was perfectly flat before I started the planking. I'm really not sure why it has done the way it has, but it seems to be a common problem. At the moment I'm just weighing it down on a flat surface to see if it will come back on it's own. I'm currently thinking about plan B....... which might involve some additional bracing in the hull. I'll have a play and see what happens.
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