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Post by paulhbell on Apr 18, 2008 21:30:48 GMT 1
Got my issue 60 today, as well. Not bad, just hope the ink don't run when its varnished.
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Post by snapdragon on Apr 19, 2008 18:16:56 GMT 1
At this scale matt varnish is right. Larger scale of say 1:100 and silk varnish would look correct. Now to colours. Lifecolor have issued a Kreigsmarine set of acrylics which are exact matches to the WWII shades of German navy paints. There are 2 sets available. Set 1 for surface ships and set 2 for U-Boats. Here's a link for you all airbrushes.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=24&products_id=2844&osCsid=3a00bdeee3584dcfc317165a0fd1a09bEach set is £13.90 and consists of 6 colours in 22ml bottles. I have not used these before so cannot comment on the quality, although they seem to be well liked. If I can get the RAL shade colours it m ay be possible to match to the vallejo range. You will probably need Black & White too. Hope this helps. James |
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Post by shane67 on Apr 19, 2008 18:50:43 GMT 1
i didn't think much of the decking supplied with issue 60 so am going the long way of decking myself,but am using there decking as template and plan as haven't got any scale plans of deck area yet ,am hoping to put some pics on my build later today, so will have to wait to put on the brass bits.
shane
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Post by afkmatrix on Apr 19, 2008 19:24:33 GMT 1
Snapdragon those are the exact colours I will soon be getting to airbrush my hull and brass bits so will give you my opinion of them when I get them. If you want the RAL colours of those life colour paints then on the home screen of Airbrushes.com where it says quick find go to the advanced part. Then in the Search Criteria put in the RAL colour your looking for, eg RAL 7000. Make sure Search in Product Descriptions is ticked and it will bring up the lifecolour that matches that RAL number.
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Post by snapdragon on Apr 21, 2008 20:59:27 GMT 1
Is there any just cause, impediment or reason why I can't stick down my deck before adding the etched brass sections?
And looking ahead, if you follow the instructions you have added the bottom sdetailing set of etched brass, then you're asked to bent the next set rounf the upper layer while trying to avoid bending of the railings of the bottom set.
Lunacy, error, idiotic or just plain short sightedness?
Your choice!
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Post by swanrail on Apr 21, 2008 22:05:07 GMT 1
As the higher set of superstructure wood pieces should not be glued down to the lower ones, then you can bend around the brass bits well away from the railings!!!!
As with any model, it is always advisable to look well ahead to see what problems can be avoided, and we must give thanks to the german crew for giving us a six months preview which helps a lot.
As an example of forward planning, several of us have decided to modify the decking arrangements so that the forward breakwater now becomes the gap point between the fixed and removable decks, makes the model look better and helps to keep out the water!!!
One of the reasons that I bought the Anatomy book was to let me see where bits went and hence forestall problems. Also Peter Bensheim excellant model, which has allowed me to modify the decks around the catapults before it is too late!!!
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Post by snapdragon on Apr 21, 2008 23:03:30 GMT 1
I'll think that I'l sit on my hands for a while and continue with my 1/16 T34/85 with full interior
James
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Post by afkmatrix on Jun 15, 2008 11:51:14 GMT 1
Well I have been having a good think of how I am going to do all the margins etc for the decks and as I am not experienced in this stuff I was worried I will muck it up or take hours & hours doing it. So what I have come up with is a similar idea to what Swanrail has suggested and use the decking supplied by hachette as a template. But instead of having the hassle of sanding the hachette decking off I have thought of another idea which might help others. What I am going to do is scan the hachette decking and then cut this out and stick it down and thus I can use this as a template to stick my planks to. Can anyone see any problems with this?
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Post by swanrail on Jun 15, 2008 16:54:00 GMT 1
Sounds a very sensible solution AFKMATRIX.
Just make sure that the paper is glued with waterproof glue both sides and there should be no problem.
Ref the metal work, I, as you know, painted mine before installation, but made sure that the bends were made first. Makes spraying a bit harder, but better to be safe than sorry!!!!
Note that as usual Hachette keep adding bits later, such as in issue 68, but what I am doing is to spray the parts first again, then scrape away a bit of paint where they have to go and then superglue as usual. Suggest to make life easier that none of the wood sections are glued together until the last possible moment, such as the second and third layers.
By not fixing until later, then there is no need for Erics suggestion of working downwards, as each section can have its brass bits glued on once the deck has been fitted individually.
Note that the fore end superstructure will give me a problem here, as I glued down the second layer not thinking ahead properly!!!
Good luck with the decking, a bit monotomous but well worth the effort.
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Post by afkmatrix on Jun 15, 2008 18:38:00 GMT 1
Thanks for that swanrail. I have been doing my planking with the Blue bottle of Evostick wood glue is this ok? As I thought this was waterproof? Was also going to use it to stick down the scanned template. And yeah I thought bending it before painting was a good idea but just wanted to check lol.
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Post by nm on Jun 15, 2008 19:34:05 GMT 1
Scan: clever idea!
NM
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Post by swanrail on Jun 15, 2008 21:17:10 GMT 1
Yes, AFKMATRIX, that glue is the one I used. However, I suggest that you glue a test piece of paper to a piece of ply first, just to see what the effect is when dry, as it might possibly wrinkle the paper? Doubt if it will, but best to check to make sure!
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Post by matt on Jun 16, 2008 13:11:25 GMT 1
I like your idea AFKMATRix I was wondering how I was going to set about it TA!
Matt
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Post by matt on Jun 16, 2008 13:12:56 GMT 1
Swanrail What did you use for the first coat on your brass fittings and of course where did you purchase it? Thanks
Matt
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Post by swanrail on Jun 16, 2008 23:29:46 GMT 1
Hi Matt,
I used standard grey car primer. My car accessory shop provided it (but Halfords would do just as well, they are not in my vicinity). My shop also sells metal etching primer, but it is £16 a can, and the "cheap" primer sems to do the job just as well.
With the Grenado build, Jotika supplied Admiralty grey etching paint, but that has to be painted on, so in view of the fine detail decided not to use that.
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