Post by Mike B on Oct 30, 2007 18:03:27 GMT 1
Hi guys,
for what it's worth, here are my twopen'th.
My model will be static and there are three reasons why I do not spray.
1. Spray cans are expensive by comparison.
2. The slightest miscalculation can result in runs.
3. Any subsequent mishaps to the paintwork later on in the build and you cannot succesfully do a touchup unless you are an expert with an airbrush.
I am building the Danmark at the moment and I am painting the hull white but the principle is the same.
After the second planking is sanded to your satisfaction, coat the hull with a liberal coat of primer of your choice. The finish does not have to be great as this is sanded down after 2-3 days to get rid of the slight imperfections that will certainly show up. If a lot of the primer is sanded away getting a smooth finish, recoat again and then sand further until you are happy and the wood is coated evenly.
Now, I use a high quality Non-drip enamel, thinned 10-1 with turps or white spirits.
Lay the hull on it's side and although the instructions say do not stir, stir well and apply a liberal coat on one side of the hull with a 25mm paint brush. Now, get a small 25-50mm fine sponge paint roller, charge it well with paint and roll it over the hull in two directions, getting rid of all the brush lines and air bubbles. It will look like orange peel at first but will dry out to a spray like finish. Leave it to dry under a dust cover and after 2 days repeat for the other side of the hull.
If not satisfied, lightly sand to a matt finish and repeat the non-drip process. White paint needs more coats to give good depth of colour but one coat should suffice for grey.
I experimented with this process for two weeks on some scrap plywood untill I was completely happy with the result and if you contemplate trying this method, do the same trial yourself to get confidence.
It may take a week or two to paint the hull but the experimentation is well worth it.
I always try out a new process on scrap wood and only when it turns out succesfully do I do it on the model.
If you are building for RC, experiment with this process but try a varnish coat over the final finish for waterproofing or investigate the possibility of non-drip yacht paints?
Mike B
for what it's worth, here are my twopen'th.
My model will be static and there are three reasons why I do not spray.
1. Spray cans are expensive by comparison.
2. The slightest miscalculation can result in runs.
3. Any subsequent mishaps to the paintwork later on in the build and you cannot succesfully do a touchup unless you are an expert with an airbrush.
I am building the Danmark at the moment and I am painting the hull white but the principle is the same.
After the second planking is sanded to your satisfaction, coat the hull with a liberal coat of primer of your choice. The finish does not have to be great as this is sanded down after 2-3 days to get rid of the slight imperfections that will certainly show up. If a lot of the primer is sanded away getting a smooth finish, recoat again and then sand further until you are happy and the wood is coated evenly.
Now, I use a high quality Non-drip enamel, thinned 10-1 with turps or white spirits.
Lay the hull on it's side and although the instructions say do not stir, stir well and apply a liberal coat on one side of the hull with a 25mm paint brush. Now, get a small 25-50mm fine sponge paint roller, charge it well with paint and roll it over the hull in two directions, getting rid of all the brush lines and air bubbles. It will look like orange peel at first but will dry out to a spray like finish. Leave it to dry under a dust cover and after 2 days repeat for the other side of the hull.
If not satisfied, lightly sand to a matt finish and repeat the non-drip process. White paint needs more coats to give good depth of colour but one coat should suffice for grey.
I experimented with this process for two weeks on some scrap plywood untill I was completely happy with the result and if you contemplate trying this method, do the same trial yourself to get confidence.
It may take a week or two to paint the hull but the experimentation is well worth it.
I always try out a new process on scrap wood and only when it turns out succesfully do I do it on the model.
If you are building for RC, experiment with this process but try a varnish coat over the final finish for waterproofing or investigate the possibility of non-drip yacht paints?
Mike B