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Post by eric on Jan 30, 2008 14:09:36 GMT 1
Surely car primer must be waterproof?
Can you picture what all the cars on the road would look like if the paint wasn't waterproof......'specially up here, they'd all look like rust-buckets......oh....on reflection....
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Post by Mark on Jan 30, 2008 15:11:27 GMT 1
I was advised that it's the top coat that provides all the protection. the primer only helps the topcoat to stick !!
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Post by rushzombie on Jan 31, 2008 12:48:48 GMT 1
anyone got any suggestions to the correct size of the black band
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Post by Bry on Jan 31, 2008 17:31:32 GMT 1
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Post by nm on Jan 31, 2008 18:25:38 GMT 1
Good thinking. Film-makers dirty-down their scale models to make them look real. Even organisations that insisted their stuff was very clean were surprised when they saw both versions. So go with the light black and the dark white!
NM
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Post by swanrail on Feb 1, 2008 0:09:20 GMT 1
The hull band should be 16mm wide according the the Anatomy of the Bismarck book. My method for doing this can be seen in my section under HULL BAND, which shows the jig I made to make the band lines on the hull.
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Post by alanthelionheart on Feb 8, 2008 23:57:29 GMT 1
I am slightly confused about the sealing and painting of the hull. Would thinned out Yacht varnish for the first coat followed by say a couple of normal coats on the inside and outside be a good substitute for glattfix??? Second, I was looking at the Halfords spray primers and they are for metal. Do you really think that they are appropriate for the hull or would a wood primer be better?
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Post by swanrail on Feb 9, 2008 0:17:21 GMT 1
What you are trying to achieve with the glattfix is a sealant basically. I have now discovered (and used on my extension pieces) that Ronseal wood hardener is just a good. however, with my other floating models, I merely primed the outside and resin coated the inside of my wooden hulls. For this one, I have sprayed on about 5 or 6 coats of wood primer that I bought from Mantua website in a spray can, but again, my other models used standard wood primer as obtained from any paint shop, and brushed on. To make sure that the final acrylic top coats adhere properly, my model also has had a couple of coats of the metal primer you refer to (from my local car accessory shop) This is a general purpose metal primer meant for acrylic paints and should be suitable for the brasswork as well.
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Post by alanv on Feb 9, 2008 14:20:06 GMT 1
You could also use sanding sealer from model shops. It closes up the grain and prepares the surface for paint. AlanV
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Post by trevor on Feb 9, 2008 22:10:03 GMT 1
Hi everyone, I have been trying to get some sanding sealer, but without sucess, so I finally opted for some pacer Z-poxy finishing resin, as recommended from a local model shop. It says on the box it is odorless, clear formula, non-brittle, sands easily to a smooth finish, cures in about 3 hours. As anyone else tried this and do you think it will do the job. My model will be static only.
Trevor
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Post by alanthelionheart on Feb 10, 2008 15:19:01 GMT 1
Thanks for the input guys. I used resin for the inside of the hull as suggested in earlier posts. The problem with it was the smell. I think we were on a high for several days!! And it took some weeks before it ceased being tacky. I don't know whether it is temperature sensitive but it's ok now. Presumably, I can use it for the outside of the hull to seal it before applying any primer but I don't have the patience for it to remain tacky for so long. Any suggestions? ??
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Post by swanrail on Feb 10, 2008 23:50:41 GMT 1
Firstly, it should not be tacky for more than a few hours at most, seems to suggest lack of catylist to cure it. The smell also goes in about the same time normally. As it goes very hard (if done correctly) would not recommend it for the outside. As I have mentioned in other posts, I have now discovered Ronseal wood hardener is a very good substitute for glattfix, it also dries rapidly, with the consistency of water and several coats not only stiffen up the wood (as it is intended to) but waterproofs it as well. Smell is a lot less than glattfix (I have used both). It aslo comes in a large tin (think 1 litre) so relatively cheap and also very useful for repairing rotten timber around the estate (in my case, bungalow!!), prior to wood filling!!!
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Post by alanthelionheart on Feb 10, 2008 23:56:38 GMT 1
Thanks Don, I really appreciate your input, I'll give it a go. It might not be a bad idea to give the inside another coat with a bit more hardener as well.
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Post by alanv on Feb 19, 2008 2:22:39 GMT 1
www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/index.asp. Just found this link to a site that does etch primer used by model railway bods for priming thier brass bits before painting. They also do some cleaning stuff for getting rid of greasy marks etc, and lots of other stuff that might come in useful. They will defitnitly be getting an order from me..........AlanV
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Post by alanv on Feb 19, 2008 2:26:59 GMT 1
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