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Post by eric on Aug 30, 2007 22:00:53 GMT 1
I've used acrylic paints with my Badger airbrush, you have to thin it down first, but gives a really nice finish and the airbrush cleans out easy enough afterwards, but I have no idea if acrylic paints are any good for a model that will float on water....so does anyone know what is the best paint type to use??
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Post by markus on Aug 31, 2007 7:38:36 GMT 1
I've used acrylic paints with my Badger airbrush, you have to thin it down first, but gives a really nice finish and the airbrush cleans out easy enough afterwards, but I have no idea if acrylic paints are any good for a model that will float on water....so does anyone know what is the best paint type to use?? acrylic paint is a bad idea - painted my first plastic r/c ship (revell titanic 1:400) with that kind of paint the result was black/red water in my bathtub since then i only use synthetic resin paint markus
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Post by Mark on Aug 31, 2007 8:45:24 GMT 1
It depends on the actual paint. Halfords car spray paints are acrylic based, and they are very durable. I use them for models all the time.
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Post by SB on Aug 31, 2007 8:53:23 GMT 1
Acrylic paints are water based hence why you can easily clean up the spray gear/brushes etc with water. I would recomend an cellulose or a synthetic resin paint as marki says, preferably something that is also flexible to prevent chipping & cracks
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Post by yoddhâ on Aug 31, 2007 12:47:52 GMT 1
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Post by Mark on Aug 31, 2007 13:01:28 GMT 1
SB is right, one of the great advantages of acrylics is the easy of cleaning. Many (but not all) are waterproof when they are cured. Games Workshops paints are a good example.
Whatever paint you use, wear a proper mask (with a filter) if you're spraying as the fumes are often a health hazard.
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Post by alanv on Aug 31, 2007 13:52:32 GMT 1
Well Cliff what a bummer i've just bought same compressor but on it's own and that cost me £64.00. That said it is a lovely peice of kit. Oh well now to find me an airbrush.
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Post by jim on Sept 23, 2007 11:14:56 GMT 1
For the initial first coat or coats I recommend using grey car body primer, I have used this on several occasions, it is a very acceptable shade of light grey, gives extremely even finish, and is easily sanded (if you get over-excited ) best of all it,s cheap my local autospares shop sells a big spray tin for £2.99 enough for several coats.
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Post by yoddhâ on Sept 23, 2007 12:34:08 GMT 1
My daughter's partner got me some etch-primer (so as it can be used on the brass as well) in a spray can it's called U-POL Acid #8 comes in a 450ml can, just the job
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Post by Mark on Sept 23, 2007 13:33:19 GMT 1
I'd drop the 'as well' Etch primer is great for Brass, but probably not very good for wood or plastic (unless it says otherwise on the tin)
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Post by yoddhâ on Sept 23, 2007 13:41:53 GMT 1
Seems to work fine on wood and plastic - they use it on plastic bumpers.
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Post by russ on Sept 26, 2007 11:26:23 GMT 1
i was thinking of using a popular make of spray from wilko, called plasti kote does anyone advise usin this
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Post by stargateian on Oct 5, 2007 10:58:32 GMT 1
If anyone wants to order one of these kits I may be able to get us a discount if there is enough to "bulk order" - drop me a PM if your'er interested. Thanks alot cliff. Ive been looking around for awhile for a good airbrush but for this model do you think the nozzle size is fine for doing the detailing and also the general spraying?
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Post by stargateian on Oct 5, 2007 11:59:36 GMT 1
I am seriouslty thinking of going to my local car repair garage and getting them to spray my boat. As my painting skills are poor to rubbish!! Me too but if your garage is anything like mine would be it is going to cost you a small fortune to get it done and the level of detail might not be the best. In past experience people who paint their own models put alot more time and energy into their work rather than paying someone to do it. Your choice though
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Post by Mark on Oct 7, 2007 16:20:33 GMT 1
I'd suggest trying Halfords touch-up cans. Work in a dry, dust free garage or workshop. Don't get too much paint on - it's actually not that difficult. Surface prep is half the battle, then work in a clean area to avoid specs of dust falling on the model. Don't put too much paint on in one go, and you're almost there. You can always practice on a sanded bit of 2x4 first
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