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Post by bob on Oct 7, 2007 20:09:23 GMT 1
Im going down Marks route he did a good job of his Titanic Hull. And its cheaper.
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Post by Achtung!! on Oct 7, 2007 21:19:28 GMT 1
I'd suggest trying Halfords touch-up cans. Work in a dry, dust free garage or workshop. Don't get too much paint on - it's actually not that difficult. Surface prep is half the battle, then work in a clean area to avoid specs of dust falling on the model. Don't put too much paint on in one go, and you're almost there. You can always practice on a sanded bit of 2x4 first Well Im stuffed on both counts - i don't have any access to a dust free garage or workshop
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Post by mattyb on Oct 27, 2007 7:44:54 GMT 1
It would be nice to mock up your own personal spray booth, using say a large tv cardboard box, that can be picked up from any electrical sellers, (Not sure what its called o/s but ours is good guys, retravision ect....) You need to allow enough space to the side as when you spray past the model with a flick of the wrist, you dont coat the stern or the bow with excess paint. Keep the box at a comfortable hight and keep it away from the ground as dust ect... will be blown up and onto your model. Spray in a well ventilated place to stop the pixie fairies dancing. And take your time, there is nothing worse than getting the job nearly done and getting runs, this would mean starting over... Hop it helps someone..
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Post by rick1138 on Nov 13, 2007 11:07:19 GMT 1
If you are airbrushing i can only advise from past experience. I have an Aztec resin airbrush ( you get metal ones now too for a weighty feel) They come with different nozzle types for different paints etc, but i find i only use 2 types one very fine and one for larger areas. After using this airbrush i find it a pain to seperate and clean, they say its easier but in the end iots fidly and you can't take the bits apart. I would recommend either a badger as some have, this is a good airbrush for all over coverage. If you want to do more work i would suggest either a Revell one at about £80 or you could get an IWATA, these range from £80 versions like the badger right up to £255 with many areas of adjustment and give a line as fine as a ball point pen. As for paints i often use Tamiya acrylics, as these are common colour corrected and you get a specific thinner to use, but they are also water soluable (ease of cleaning). However i also know of Vallejo Model colours (I use their game co,our range for painting Games Workshop miniatures, however the Model colour range is more natural colours and they also do the correct RLM colours. Vallejo also do Model AIR colur which is the same as their model colour range, but is pre-thinned, all you need to do is add some drops from the dropper bottle (much easier to control) and you are away with your airbrush. I am very happy with their brush colours and i am going to get some of the airbrush colours for the bismarck. Various suppliers can be found on the net. Though i get mine from the states as its a lot cheaper at the moment!! Oh found some links: www.modelsforsale.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=329975 <Model air basic with airbrush/> www.modelsforsale.com/catalog/modelkits.php?manufacturers_id=14104?Vallejo <Model air range/>
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Post by rick1138 on Nov 13, 2007 11:25:47 GMT 1
Oh a handy colour chart comparison:
RLM <=> MODEL AIR RLM----MODEL AIR----------MODEL AIR--------RLM 2------71044-----------------71008--------------65 65-----71008-----------------71011--------------83 66-----71055-----------------71015--------------71 70-----71021-----------------71016--------------73 71-----71015-----------------71016+71060-------73 73-----71016-----------------71017--------------80 73 -----71016+71060 ---------71021--------------70 74 -----71054-----------------71022--------------82 75-----71052-----------------71034--------------79 76 -----71046-----------------71043--------------81 76 -----71046+71060----------71044-------------- 2 79-----71034-----------------71046--------------76 80-----71017-----------------71046+71060-------76 81-----71043-----------------71052--------------75 82-----71022-----------------71054--------------74 83-----71011-----------------71055--------------66
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Post by Mike B on Nov 14, 2007 11:35:45 GMT 1
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Post by swanrail on Jan 11, 2008 23:07:15 GMT 1
Anyone got any tips on masking? I have used standard masking tape but have always found that the spray paint creeps under the edges in spite of firming down well first. Am aware that too strong a tape can damage the primer coat, else would have tried a plastic type.
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Post by eric on Jan 12, 2008 0:03:42 GMT 1
I know that there is a mask you can paint on, then take off, I think Humbrol make it. It's supposed to be for coating an aircraft canopy to protect it during spraying, but i have never used it. Anybody in the forum had a go with something like it?
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Post by Bry on Jan 12, 2008 10:25:24 GMT 1
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Post by Mark on Jan 12, 2008 14:25:57 GMT 1
I just use ordinary masking tape, and run the back of a thumb nail down the edge to get a firm line. You might be spraying the paint a bit thick. A light coat to start with seems to seal the edge of the tape without running underneath.
The liquid mask Eric mentioned is available from art shops. Water colour painters use it. It's very good for masking off canopies and odd shapes, but no good for straight lines unless you've got a very steady hand.
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Post by swanrail on Jan 12, 2008 17:53:42 GMT 1
Thanks Bry, I will look into it. I did as Mark suggested with standard masking tape and sprayed first coat thin, but it still managed to creep! I mjust admit, spraying has never been my strong point, I prefer paint brushes, not so smelly and a lot easier to clean up afterwards! (and in my case, just as good a finish). However, I do know that the brass bits will definitely need the spray gun!
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Post by eric on Jan 12, 2008 17:57:01 GMT 1
Yes, a paint brush would just obscure too much small detailing.
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Post by Mark on Jan 13, 2008 3:43:56 GMT 1
I'm a bit puzzled now on. Are you starting with a perfectly smooth surface ? Perhaps there are brush marks in the primer and the paint is creeping down the valleys of the brush marks ?
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Post by swanrail on Jan 13, 2008 14:04:28 GMT 1
No I was spraying over the primer, which was about 6 coats worth, sanded down between each coat to a fine finish. The masking tape was made by Harrisons, and looks a bit too thin for the job.
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Post by monsieurtox on Jan 16, 2008 6:37:23 GMT 1
Hey Don, the best masking tape is IMHO the Tamiya's ones. You can get them in 4, 6, 10, 18, 40 mm. Those masking tapes are a bit pricey... But they are the best ! And you'll dont get any problem with your paint which came off with your masking tape ! Pricey but you'll save money since you'll not have to repaint your whole model due to masking tape issues !
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