|
Post by eric on Jan 7, 2008 19:39:08 GMT 1
Thanks for the photos Don, as always we novices are very lucky to have you Markus and Mark to show us the way!!
|
|
|
Post by markus on Jan 19, 2008 20:57:32 GMT 1
update: main mast .....wish i had smaller fingers
|
|
|
Post by afkmatrix on Jan 19, 2008 22:03:36 GMT 1
Hi Swanrail,
I like that idea of extending the planking up past the deck. I am considering using magnets like others to secure the decking as the scews will be a pain to keep undoing. Only thing with that is I am hoping to do the R/C model so it has to be waterproof, would adding this extra planking achieve this or would I still need some kind of seal? Also what size plank did you use for the extension, is it the size of the first load of planks or the second, stuff you bought?? Could you give some dimensions? Also are those extra pieces of wood between each rib for the extension or to strengthen the model?
|
|
|
Post by swanrail on Jan 20, 2008 0:39:22 GMT 1
Hi, the information you want can be found in my messages 154, 158 and 160 on page 11 of this thread. Note that then side planks should be left above the deck level. In my case, I have fitted the waterways on both the fixed and removable decks, which has allowed me to sand the side planks level with the veneer. Also the outer edge of the side planks has been bevelled at about 45 degrees as per the Anatomy book. This mod (as suggested originally by Markus) should make the hull more watertight. Ref the magnets, I started using them on this forum many moons ago, you might find the messages and pictures by doing a search. you can see two of the magnet sleepers just behind turret Dora in my photo on 160. If you have already fitted the original side walls as per the instructions, as I did, you have two options: 1. is to strip off the planking down to the armoured section and replace with wider planks, or in my case,2. glue a 5mm strip of planking on top of the original. With care, this can be done successfully and is quite strong once glattfixed and primed. Hope that is of some help, please ask if any more help needed!!
|
|
|
Post by swanrail on Jan 20, 2008 0:42:40 GMT 1
Just re read you query, the stiffeners between each frame are to stiffen the side planks, also to allow easy fitting of the magnets and also to make a good watertight fitting without the need for some form of sealant. (any water that does get by will be a very tiny amount and with normal operation no problem, not recommended for underwater work though!).
|
|
|
Post by swanrail on Jan 20, 2008 0:52:54 GMT 1
Hi Markus, very impressed with your mast. Had a look yesterday at the German preview site, and thought that the brass bits for the mast will be no problem, as they looked big. Then looked in my Anatomy book where they show the mast at the same scale as we are building and it suddenly looked microscopic and quite frightening to contemplate! Must say that the model looks as if it will turn out to be a fine one going by your excellant pictures. At least mine is beginning to look like something at long last!!! Regards,
|
|
|
Post by markus on Jan 20, 2008 14:33:04 GMT 1
Hi Markus, very impressed with your mast. Had a look yesterday at the German preview site, and thought that the brass bits for the mast will be no problem, as they looked big. Then looked in my Anatomy book where they show the mast at the same scale as we are building and it suddenly looked microscopic and quite frightening to contemplate! Must say that the model looks as if it will turn out to be a fine one going by your excellant pictures. At least mine is beginning to look like something at long last!!! Regards, i also think we'll get a fantastic looking model by all those fiddy brass bits. but i personally prefer working with wood instead of gluing extremely small brass bits to my fingers markus
|
|
|
Post by eric on Jan 20, 2008 17:30:16 GMT 1
A&E deptartments up and down the country will soon be inundated with Bismarck modelers lined up, with fingers glued to each other and various bits of brass!
|
|
|
Post by Achtung!! on Jan 20, 2008 20:29:44 GMT 1
I've booked my cubicle.
|
|
|
Post by swanrail on Jan 20, 2008 23:19:28 GMT 1
I am 100% with you Markus, I too do not like working with superglue, and much prefer wood to brass. Unfortunately, it would take a lot more than 2 years for me to fashion wood to the same detail as brass, so have to put up with it!!! Is there an easy (and safe) way to glue the very tiny brass bits onto the brass bigger bits? I am dreading that part.
|
|
|
Post by Mark on Jan 21, 2008 0:08:46 GMT 1
Hold them together with a tooth pick, and apply glue with a pin ? Alternatively, apply the glue with a pin, then add the part using a tooth pick with a dab of Bluetack on the .
|
|
|
Post by swanrail on Jan 21, 2008 0:12:36 GMT 1
How do you get the glue from the bottle onto the pin? (sounds a silly question, but when I try it, the glue comes out of the bottle too fast to control it!).
|
|
|
Post by Mark on Jan 21, 2008 4:19:42 GMT 1
Squeeze very gently (as the actress said to the bishop !)
If the glue is thick enough I put a drop on a scrap of plastic (or glossy magazine cover) and dip the pin in. The head of a small needle may work better as the eye should hold the glue like a paint brush. Haven't tried that one yet.
As another thought, could you use small hyperdermic needles to dispense the glue. Not sure where you can get them though. Ebay ??
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2008 12:34:12 GMT 1
Btw Acetone / Nail varnish remover dissolves super glue, I strongly suggest you have some in a container big enough to fit your hand in close by when working with super glue!!! You never know when it might be needed!
|
|
|
Post by alanv on Jan 21, 2008 13:20:43 GMT 1
Hi. Don't know if anybody has mentioned this yet, but you can get solder paste that you paint onto the parts then heat up with soldering iron. Some people may find this easier than regular solder and it would probebly be less fiddley. Im going to wait till my first etched parts arrive and take it from there...
|
|