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Post by nm on Feb 2, 2008 10:15:17 GMT 1
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Post by swanrail on Feb 2, 2008 13:37:28 GMT 1
Thanks guys. I do have some of the links on my link page. The main problem is that the paint job varied enormously over a period of about 2 years. Even the black strip changed width, and some reckon that at the end she did have yellow gun tops whilst others say that she definitely did not!! I think it is upto the individual constructor to decide the point in time that he/she wants the model to look like. Personally, I am going for the shipyard version, mainly because I think it would be very difficult to paint on the camouflage without wrecking the whole paint job!!!
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Post by markus on Feb 2, 2008 16:07:11 GMT 1
i will only paint the hull's camouflage, this won't be too hard to do
painting the camouflage onto the superstructure will be quite difficult to do
markus
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Post by Achtung!! on Feb 2, 2008 17:17:43 GMT 1
It will take quite a keen eye to match up the stripes correctly . Sorry If I;m diluting, but I was thinking of using a laser 'spirit' level on an angle to project the lines of the camouflage onto the hull and superstructure at the correct angle to try and match them up. What do others think?
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Post by Bry on Feb 2, 2008 17:32:10 GMT 1
Exactly what I was thinking of doing. Best to paint the superstructure before permanently fixing to the deck. You don’t want to get paint on your finished deck.
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Post by swanrail on Feb 3, 2008 0:27:25 GMT 1
I have one of the laser spirit levels which throws a straight line. cost me £4.99 from my local Texaco garage recently, but still do not fancy the painting of the upperworks. (did not think of it at the time, but I could have used it to set up the masking tape to get the black stripe along the hull correct.)
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Post by Bry on Feb 3, 2008 9:55:42 GMT 1
Looking around the interweb thingy, the width of the ‘black band’ is open to opinion. Could it be that previous modellers have referred to photos with her sitting differently in the water? So differing amounts of band below the water line. Just a thought.
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Post by Mark on Feb 3, 2008 14:43:24 GMT 1
I think you'll find that the pencil in a block of wood is far easier to use that a laser level !!
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Post by swanrail on Feb 3, 2008 16:06:11 GMT 1
According to what I have seen, when the ship (will not call it he or she in view of other post!) was built, the black strip was wider, and then thinned down when camourflaged, then being made into 3 sections, very thin at bow and stern. Like most things, the ship seems to have changed various things almost monthly in the last 2 years of life!! Unfortunately, the original ships plans, like the shipyard model, shows what was expected, but due to mods and changes not as it finished up. This was equally true of the Titanic, although there a lot more photographic evidence seems to be available, except that many pictures of the Olympic were mistakenly passed off as the Titanic, due to a shortage of the real thing when she sank!!!
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Post by trevor on Feb 3, 2008 16:43:48 GMT 1
Hi swanrail, Ive made a modified version of your jig for the hull band, Ive posted a couple of photos on my diary build, many thanks for the idea.
Trevor
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Post by Achtung!! on Feb 3, 2008 17:01:40 GMT 1
I think you'll find that the pencil in a block of wood is far easier to use that a laser level !! How true!!! Less likly to break down. Although I was intending to use it for painting the diagonal lines on the hull and superstructure to get the lines spot on.
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Post by eric on Feb 5, 2008 17:59:30 GMT 1
Don, this may have been talked about on another forum.....can't remember who or where it was though.... .....but, how did you get on with the fit of the louvers on the lower hull? Also, what glue is best to use, seeing as there is a genorous coating of paint in there?
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Post by markus on Feb 5, 2008 18:10:13 GMT 1
hi don! finally decided to motorize my turrets, too... your posts regarding the turret's distance from the rudder stock will make that job a lot easier for me... thanks markus
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Post by swanrail on Feb 5, 2008 23:46:59 GMT 1
Hi Eric, I glued mine in with the dreaded superglue, no problem as I fitted them with only a couple of priming coats, and then put on 2 or 3 more later, plus several topcoats. (I decided to paint mine the same colour as the hull, as seems most likely). Also noticed in most of the finished models that it is very difficult to see the louvres anyway, so do not know why Daryl got his nickers in a twist over it!!!
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Post by swanrail on Feb 5, 2008 23:59:10 GMT 1
Hi Markus, glad to be of help. With my new turrets, I found that my disc were 2mm less in diameter than they should be (due to my hole cutter size) so now have added a 1mm thick by 10mm wide plank around the circumference to correct this. This means that my revolving turret is exactlythe same dimensions as part 218 in issue 46, so I have scrapped the part 218 and replaced it with my version. This should allow me to fit the brass overlay as per the issue when it arrives. Am a bit stuck at the moment until I get the gun mountings to go on top, but hopefully will not be too much of a problem. I might have to sink turrets A and D into the deck, as I have a suspicion that 10mm for the base is too deep by mounting on the deck. Keep me posted on how you get on. Regards,
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