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Post by rem2007 on Feb 6, 2008 21:53:51 GMT 1
hi don, robert here, as you know due to delivery problems I'm catching up to the rest of the UK. when you put on 70/a on the stern did you use the spacer part 66 or another method, mine seems to sit proud which would mean loads of sanding. I'm contemplating your raised planking mod as well...and another idea.
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Post by swanrail on Feb 6, 2008 23:17:25 GMT 1
Hi Robert, I have copied my fitting of the new part 70 here under NEW PART 70 in this section of the forum, so that it is easier to find. I am sure that the new part was deliberately made too big, as when I fitted the cover piece over the ply part, it fitted in smoothly with the hull contours and allowed me to progress this strip forward, eventaully becoming the new raised part I have listed elsewhere. Suggest that in no circumstances do you sand down the new part 70! As you can see in my other thread on modifying the new part 70, I have done this so that the anchor recess is now in the correct place, the new part 70 is better than the old one but still not as it should be. Unfortunately, my part 70 was fixed in place and it was quite a struggle to modify it. If you have yet to fix it, then the mod becomes easy!! (it is upto you).
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Post by rem2007 on Feb 7, 2008 0:16:03 GMT 1
thanks Don, gives me something to mull over while I toss he cat out, Wilma! I swear I'm turning into Fred Flintstone....
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Post by afkmatrix on Feb 7, 2008 0:17:30 GMT 1
Hi Swanrail,
Nice mod there. I havn't fitted part 70 yet so am thinking I might do this to my part as you say it would be easy. I assume all I would have to do is sand the top of Part 70 until the anchor recess is in line with the portholes as you have shown in your pictures?
My part 70 needs some sanding anyway as its not 90 degrees and thus isn't going to fit well to the underside of the deck (there is a gap between the deck and part 70)
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Post by swanrail on Feb 7, 2008 0:42:50 GMT 1
You will need to cut across the resin part just below the anchor recess, and then insert about a 5mm thick plank in the gap to raise the anchor fluke roughly level with the last porthole (see the picture in issue 44 page 132. In this case you should not need the ply that goes on top! Might need a bit of thought and adjusting, as I cut out the anchor recess part only as per my pictures. Remember, measure (and think!) twice, cut once!! Using this technique, you should not need the plank bent around the stern, as the resin part will take its place!!!
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Post by Mark on Feb 8, 2008 4:21:19 GMT 1
Your finished hull looks good Don. Are you nearly ready for a sea trial yet ?
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Post by rem2007 on Feb 8, 2008 10:36:03 GMT 1
hi don, i have decided to do your side extension mod to the removeable deck pieces only. i have yet to put on my foredeck whilst doing second planking and shall have a go at the stern resin bit this weekend to fit on. robert
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Post by swanrail on Feb 8, 2008 16:59:34 GMT 1
No unfortunately not. I want to grease the prop shafts first, and also finish off my hull mods before fitting the speed controllers, batteries, etc. Next problem will be finding a suitable stretch of water, the sea is about 3 miles from my house, but too rough at this time of year!! Likewise, we have a boating lake in Poole, but that is 18 miles away, and also very choppy also.
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Post by swanrail on Feb 8, 2008 17:03:33 GMT 1
Hi Robert, a useful tip is that when you have the side extensions in place, you will find that they are a bit fragile. I have used Ronseal wood hardener (couple of coats) and this has toughened up the wood very well. Reckon it would make a better substitute for Glattfix!!! (should have tried it sooner). Also recommend that you modify the foredeck before fitting it as I am hoping to show soon. David has already done this, and I decided it was the only way to get the front end reasonably watertight as well as making the crack invisible, and also much easier to plank over.
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Post by afkmatrix on Feb 8, 2008 21:54:14 GMT 1
Hi Don,
Could you give some details on how you did the deck mod? Had you already stuck down the fore deck ply? If so how did you get it off so you could cut it etc? Or did you get your own ply and re make the foredeck piece?
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Post by swanrail on Feb 8, 2008 23:34:14 GMT 1
Hi there, Unfortunately, I have made several mistakes in my build by rigidly adherring to the instructions without giving thought as to what the future holds. This was one of them!! Having stuck down the foredeck many moons ago, I decided to jump in where angels fear to tread and cut out the shape I needed. I have already fitted the side waterways on the deck, so decided to cut just inside these. Firstly, I marked out the position of the chevron for the breakwater, using the drawings in the "book". I then glued down the margin plank on this. Next, taking one side, I cut down through the ply just inside the waterway with a sharp modelling knife, and enlarged the slot sufficiently to get a razor saw in (did not want too wide a saw cut). I then cut along the length of the foredeck. This was repeated on the other side and the bow end section. This left the deck free, but still stuck down to the frames. I then cut carefully the bulkhead at the stern end of the foredeck, following the shape as used on the removable section. Again this was done with a sharp craft knife, a lot of pressure and patience!! Once this section was free, i then used a long modellers chisel to force the foredeck from the frames, and with a little bit of luck, the deck became free!! It was just a case of tidying up, then attaching the foredeck to the front of the main deck. Here, I also put reinforcing bars by slotting in under the crossbeam and gluing down each side of the fore and main decks, making sure all was kept level. In the now opened up fore deck position, I put in place my side reinforcing strips as before, this gives the deck something positive to sit on when fitted into place. I did try some more magnets at the bow end of the new arrangement, but later removed them when I installed the barbette for Anton gun turret. In retrospect, I think the weight of the gun turret when complete will hold that part of the deck down securely anyway, and by using the looser method, should make it easier to remove and reinstall the whole deck piece. Am contemplating whether to attach the stern removable part to make one whole section, but fear that this might prove a proble to fit and remove. p.s. the frame at the stern end of the foredeck was modified on the advice of another modeller at the beginning so as to have access to the servo feeding Anton. This was necessary with a fixed foredeck, but of course made it a lot easier to cut out the after cross beam.
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Post by swanrail on Feb 8, 2008 23:37:16 GMT 1
Just an afterthought, I like solving difficult problems, but an easier answer would be to cut out the deck shape as per the start, and then just wreck the original by cross cutting and chiselling out. This way, after making good, you will need to cut a new replacement part from the same thickness ply and carry on from there. A bit brutal but should be effective!!!
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Post by eric on Feb 9, 2008 0:00:00 GMT 1
Sounds like a good mod, not sure I should do it though, as I will be using the supplied hatchette decking, and I can't be 100% sure the breakwater will be in the pecise same place as depicted in the Anatomy Book, so I may wait untile much later before attempting it.
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Post by afkmatrix on Feb 9, 2008 2:43:49 GMT 1
Well I just had a look at my foredeck and well I can pry up the corners so I think with some patience I can get it off. Now what is interesting is that I got 2 issue 19's so I have a duplicate of the stern decking and after comparing I think I can just cut these down to the shape and size of the foredeck without much effort So looks like another mod is in the works lol. EDIT: Looking at your drawing you have cut some kind of triangular pieces out of the side frame part what is this for? Also as I am not putting any servo's on my turrets, do I need to add that support there in the middle? And which saw would you recommend from this list to cut along the foredeck? www.fasttrackmodels.co.uk/index.php?cPath=89_182
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Post by swanrail on Feb 9, 2008 14:24:49 GMT 1
I would recommend buying the superfine razor saw. It will take a bit of handling as the blade is so thin, but leves a very small cut behind it. However, if you never need to cut out finely, then a standard razor saw will do. The triangular opening that you saw: as I was a bit concerned by the additional weight I would add with servo mountings, etc, I decided very early on to remove surplus wood from the frames. Under my foredeck, you would see many such holes, mostly round. Thus the cutout has no purpose except to save weight (note it is weight above the waterline that I was worried about, as too much could effect the stability when afloat).
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