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Post by Achtung!! on Jan 16, 2008 17:49:20 GMT 1
With the advent of the first brass 'bits' and all forthcoming brass parts.
What is the best material to use to attach them on to the boat- i assume 'super glue' of some sort, but I assume also that we will need copious amounts of it.
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Post by markus on Jan 16, 2008 17:59:25 GMT 1
best choice is thin superglue...
markus
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Post by Achtung!! on Jan 16, 2008 21:14:23 GMT 1
Thanks, and for cutting out the pieces from the fret?
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Post by markus on Jan 16, 2008 21:42:07 GMT 1
Thanks, and for cutting out the pieces from the fret? a sharp knife for cutting them out and a small file to remove excess material markus
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Post by Mark on Jan 17, 2008 2:00:33 GMT 1
Yup - sharp knife, and press on a hard cutting board. If the board is soft the brass will bend. You could even use a piece of glass or such like. Superglue is good, but make sure the parts are clean and the surface roughed up slightly with fine sandpaper to give a good key. You could solder smaller parts if you're confident with a soldering iron.
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Post by Achtung!! on Jan 17, 2008 12:40:10 GMT 1
Erm might pass on the soldering...I cant be bother with the waiting times in A&E!!!
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Post by daveg on Jan 17, 2008 21:04:03 GMT 1
would also pass on soldering the joints. would use decent modelers knife, file and small long nose plyers to make the bends daveg
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Post by eric on Jan 17, 2008 21:14:22 GMT 1
Looking forward to this part............NOT!
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Post by Mark on Jan 18, 2008 5:08:08 GMT 1
I think I might have a bash at soldering the smaller brass parts, which have a particularly small contact area and might be difficult to glue. In theory it's not that difficult. Here's a brief guide on how to do it. First clean all the parts to remove any grease. Now tin both parts that need to be joined. By this I mean put a thin film of solder on each part before you start trying to join them. A tiny smear of flux on the part, apply the soldering iron and wait for the part to heat for a few seconds. Now just dab the end of the solder on the part (not the iron) and it should melt and flow over the part. We are talking a tiny bit of solder - just enough to plate the area to be joined. Do this on both parts. Wait for them to cool (or you can just burn your fingers if you prefer !) Now hold the parts together (not with your fingers stupid !) and heat the joint with the soldering iron. When the joint is hot enough the tinning will melt, and you can add a tiny bit more solder to strengthen the joint. And I do mean tiny !! We are soldering, not welding or cementing !! Remove the iron and let it cool. Resist blowing to cool it as this cools the solder too quickly and can cause it to crystalise (or so I've been told) Finally remove the remaining flux with a solvent and toothbrush.
Keep everthing clean, use flux, plenty of heat, be mean with the solder, take it one step at a time and it's not too difficult.
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Post by ph on Jan 18, 2008 11:23:43 GMT 1
I tryed soldering years ago at work and found it not bad but it wasent as small as the bit we are gona get So i will wait till you have a go Mark and see wot you think.
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Post by daveb on Jan 18, 2008 15:30:38 GMT 1
But just look what can be achieved once you have mastered these techniques
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Post by Achtung!! on Jan 18, 2008 15:32:51 GMT 1
Nice!!!
Where do you store that then? Under your bed?
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Post by daveb on Jan 18, 2008 15:37:36 GMT 1
No : Being from Gloucestershire, downstairs on my lounge floor!!!
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Post by Achtung!! on Jan 18, 2008 15:43:02 GMT 1
lol.
nice scratching post for a cat
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Post by Mike B on Jan 18, 2008 15:46:20 GMT 1
Excellent tutorial, Mark. I found that when making railings for my Titanics, I replaced the tip of my soldering iron with a 2" copper nail and filed it to a chisel shape. This was great for pin-point soldering.
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