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Post by eric on Mar 21, 2008 23:15:57 GMT 1
That looks excellent Jim, well done!
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Post by david on Mar 22, 2008 0:35:22 GMT 1
Penguin meat is salty enough already. NM How do you know that, did you take a bite out of Chill? Nice work on the brass Jim. David
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2008 0:50:02 GMT 1
Hope I can do justice to that when I get my brass parts.
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Post by napoleon on Mar 22, 2008 20:51:33 GMT 1
Nice job there Jim on the catapults.
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Post by trevor on Mar 24, 2008 14:32:06 GMT 1
Hi everyone, the brass bits we received with issue 49 and 50, has anyone else noticed that on 1 brass strip 3 of the port hole covers are not in line with port holes and on the other brass strip 1 port hole cover opens to the side instead of downards, these are already etched into the brass and are not the ones we have to glue on ourselves.
Trevor
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Post by shane67 on Mar 24, 2008 16:33:15 GMT 1
yes trevor i also noticed that but when nosing around on the german forum with the magazine pictures it appears that other parts are fitted later when they are apllied to the superstructure itself along with said spare porthole covers and hatch covers from previous issues ,hope this helps answer a few of the qestions raised in thi thread as for pengiun meat!!!!but there so cute
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Post by trevor on Mar 24, 2008 16:35:53 GMT 1
I also found it easier to glue bit 248 onto bit 256 whilst bit 256 was still on the brass strip, it also made it easier to glue bit 256 in place with bit 248 already on it.
Trevor
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Post by Achtung!! on Mar 24, 2008 20:16:42 GMT 1
Penguin meat is salty enough already. NM How do you know that, did you take a bite out of Chill? Nice work on the brass Jim. David ;D
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Post by trevor on Mar 25, 2008 20:30:56 GMT 1
Hi everyone, A tip that might help with cleaning the brass bits, I remember seeing on telly the advert for Cillit Bang, where a copper coin was cleaned just by being dipped into it, so I glued two scrap bit of brass together and tried it with the brass, and it did clean the brass up and did not affect the super glue, I let it soak in the Cillet Bang for about 20 mins.
Trevor
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Post by afkmatrix on Mar 30, 2008 19:54:18 GMT 1
Well I just thought I would post a couple of pics of my 2 issues of brass to show that the tips about the blue tack and the cutting off the top of a needle work wonders Basically the first brass I did from issue 49 I only used some plyers, scalpel and the nozzle of the super glue bottle. But for issue 50 I used some blue tack at the end of a needle and a bottle cap to hold a little of the thin super glue and another needle with its top/eye cut to apply the glue from the bottle cap. As you can see from the images it makes a serious difference!!! I am just glad I have ordered another issue 49 as I lost a part, what luck.
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Post by Mark on Mar 30, 2008 23:47:58 GMT 1
Second attempt is very very neat AFK. I just tried soldering the parts on issue 50 (I have 2 copies ) with mixed results. I'm going to try superglue next to see which is easier.
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Post by Achtung!! on Mar 31, 2008 8:42:23 GMT 1
Whilst we are on issue 49- Just started on this one. Well just looking at it. Just read the instructions and it says not to drill the superstructure if the model is sailing. So should I just dimple the portholes in stead?
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Post by Mark on Mar 31, 2008 9:07:09 GMT 1
Yeah, that's what I'm going to do, and fill the dimples with black paint later. On my titanic I used etched walls instead of the card parts. Where there were windows etched through I just went over the wood with black marker before gluing the etchings in place. The etchings were painted before fitting in place. The black behind the windows looked absolutely fine.
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Post by markus on Mar 31, 2008 12:23:09 GMT 1
i decided to drill the holes and fill them with clear glue after painting...
what do you think about that ??
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Post by afkmatrix on Mar 31, 2008 15:03:53 GMT 1
Well what I was going to do is mark on the drill bit say half the width of the ply to drill. Drill to that line then paint the hole black and then fill with clear epoxy so it looks like glass.
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