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Post by Achtung!! on Mar 31, 2008 15:15:37 GMT 1
Clever idea there, using a syringe to fill up the holes. I only say that as I have a syringe that I used ages ago when filling a ink cartridge - and that looks the dogs do-dah for filling up the said holes.
Also, not sure if someone posted this but worth mentioning again. I am using a needle glued into a cork for applying the supperglue to the brass bits.
Did issue 49 last night (the aircraft hanger).
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Post by david on Mar 31, 2008 17:27:18 GMT 1
Well what I was going to do is mark on the drill bit say half the width of the ply to drill. Drill to that line then paint the hole black and then fill with clear epoxy so it looks like glass. Great minds think alike afk/Chill, I was planning to do this on the hull portholes as well. Resin seems to dry with a minimal meniscus, not quite an optical flat but certainly good enough to give a good impression of a window; the hull will of course have to be tilted in stages but using a syringe it will be possible to fill the holes so that they are suitably recessed the correct amount. I was also considering mixing a black pigment in the resin (maybe graphite from a 6B pencil) so as to gauge the depth accurately. David
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Post by popeye on Apr 1, 2008 15:06:14 GMT 1
I use superglue for the brass parts and it works ok. I use 2 dispensers (which I will refill from the 50gm bottle I store in the fridge - which has a setting time of about 20 seconds). One, which has just come on the market at most UK DIY stores (Loctite Super Glue Easy Brush in Anti-spill safety Bottle 5g Ref 87819150 at about £2.75p), has a "non-tip" stand and a small brush built into the cap which allows a small area to be fairly accurately "painted" with glue - very good for gluing on the doors and hatches. The other (Loctite Super Glue Precision Bottle with Extra-long Nozzle 5g Ref 80001611 at about £2.20p - High performance adhesive for instant sticking. Suitable for use on china, wood, metal, rubber, leather, card and most plastics Original bottle applicator Extra long nozzle for precision Controlled flow nozzle for one drop at a time or continuous flow) is very good for "spot" gluing in a small space, it has side "squeezers" that fairly accurately control the flow and does allow just one small drop of glue to be applied. Loctite also do a non-drip gel superglue in the small container with the accurate control facility. See www.office365.co.uk/Adhesives-Tapes/462261-Loctite-Super-Glue.htm for more details or go to Loctite's site to see the various superglue dispensers www.loctiteproducts.com/products/subcategory.asp?catid=15&subid=34For the portholes I will be seagoing, so I need to ensure that they are watertight. I have therefore drilled into the wood/plastic about 5mm with a 2mm dia drill and I have bought some 2mm diameter perspex rod (from my local plastics shop) and cut 6mm lengths which I will glue into the holes so the the ends just stick out through the brass portholes, like little glass windows. This not only looks good and prevents water getting into the model but keeps the brass pieces in place while they are being glued!
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Post by markus on Apr 1, 2008 16:43:34 GMT 1
...but keeps the brass pieces in place while they are being glued! very good idea
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Post by eric on Apr 3, 2008 8:30:12 GMT 1
Got some fingerprints from my greasy paws on my brasswork, can I use white sprits on a cotton bud to clean it up without disolving the C/A?
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Post by Mark on Apr 3, 2008 9:27:52 GMT 1
It should be OK Eric. Try it out on a scrap part first - I.e. try gluing a couple of bits of the off cut together and seeing if the spirit disolves the super glue.
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Post by afkmatrix on Apr 3, 2008 11:00:31 GMT 1
Eric I can 100% confirm that white spirit won't affect the glue we're using. I used it on my horrible Issue 49 brass bit and its all still glued together.
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Post by Achtung!! on Apr 3, 2008 11:03:07 GMT 1
Has anyone else found the latest issues instructions a bit vague/strange on how to attach the various bits on the plastic 'chimney'.
And I wonder what this special bending tool is in next weeks issue?
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Post by davelancs on Apr 3, 2008 11:30:02 GMT 1
Achtung - try having a look at bismarck.oehm.net/ from the links page here. It's areally good German site that shows how each issue in turn is 'built'. It has lots of actual photos of the parts and how they fit together with some really useful tips on how to get things right. The pictures are pretty good but all the text is in German. Fortunately, I can speak German so if you need any translations from the site, let me know and I can post the English version for you.
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Post by davelancs on Apr 3, 2008 11:32:10 GMT 1
By the way - if anyone uses the site it's worth knowing that 'Rumpf' means hull and 'Aufbauten' means deck structures (more or less) and 'Aufgabe' means issue. Teil 2 is the equivalent of 'part 2'.
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Post by Achtung!! on Apr 3, 2008 11:44:11 GMT 1
Ah thank you for that. It is a lot clearer.
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Post by eric on Apr 3, 2008 14:10:55 GMT 1
Eric I can 100% confirm that white spirit won't affect the glue we're using. I used it on my horrible Issue 49 brass bit and its all still glued together. Cheers Matrix.......I shall take you at your word!!!!
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Post by Achtung!! on Apr 4, 2008 7:42:14 GMT 1
Stil on issue as before, having looked at the German link it has come a bit clearer. But, I have stuck the small ladder on the tower, how far away from the ladder do I stick the brass door on? Is a estimated distance away from the ladder or is there a set distance away that it has to go?
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Post by swanrail on Apr 4, 2008 21:22:32 GMT 1
I too was wondering on the measurements, but not shown in the Anatomy book. The "door" (manhole) does not appear on any obvious photos, so not that desperate to get right!!! Anyone know what its use was? To scale, it is about 9 ft. above the deck, a bit high to reach, and not near the ladder either!!!
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Post by nm on Apr 4, 2008 21:36:53 GMT 1
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