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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2008 1:28:34 GMT 1
Hi Skyfire, I had the same problem a while ago that you have now. Here's a sequence of pictures that might help you move forward. David Thanks David, did you do all of the cutting with the knife ? Think there might be a drill bit that size somewhere in the garage. Any hints / idead on drilling the resin part out, was thinking fop going to a chandlers near here as they can deal with resin I think! I have seen the pics of the resin part drilled out earlier in the thread, but don't think much was said about how to keep it nice and straight and linded up ?
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Post by david on Jan 24, 2008 18:21:29 GMT 1
Hi Skyfire, Yes I cut through the beams with a knife, it took a while but it was controllable and quite easy. Regarding drilling the resin part, I'd definitely get your chandler to do it; I botched mine when a too small drill broke inside the molding. When I tried to drill it out the resin part shattered and I was left with the sort of job that a museum restorer faces when the Ming vase takes a dive! David.
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Post by swanrail on Jan 24, 2008 23:41:45 GMT 1
I hand drilled mine out without too much hassle. Important thing I found was to make the hole very much oversize at the bow end (I did this by drilling back along the correct size hole from the bow end until nearly at the stern end, thus leaving a collar around the shaft. By doing this, I found it easy to get the shaft correctly aligned before aralditing down.(there must be no pressure on the shaft when resin part fitted in its correct position). Pour in the slow setting variety of araldite into the larger end via the inside of the hull, after the resin part has been glued in, and it will set the shaft and seal it correctly.(you will need to stand the hull on its end while pouring in and while glue sets!). Note; make sure that the shaft is as best aligned as you can, although the universal joint takes up discepancies, if out of alignment you will get a knocking noise, ranging from barely audible to quite loud depending on how much out you are. I always check mine by turning the prop by hand and feeling for a slight movement of the fixed part of the shaft. Not possible once glue has set!!!!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2008 6:34:44 GMT 1
Hand drilling it out dosen't sound too bad, but I get the feeling slow and steady is the way to go. Only other thing about the hull is I have the reinforcing bits glued over the joint, (think I can always cut through them too or soak with water an unglue, then cut through and reglue them back in place after some sanding on the inner faces).
Thanks for all the help, think I'll go for the 3 motor setup with v-mixer, but with the 3 channel radio, (I want to motorise the radars and maybe have working running lights, if it's possible).
Wonder if LI-Po batters would work, (Lithium Polymer), as used in r/c electric planes ?
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Post by Mark on Jan 25, 2008 7:01:24 GMT 1
Li-Po batteries are fairly low capacity, light weight & expensive. Great for model planes & mobile phones, but not really appropriate for model boats. Better to use lead acid batteries which are cheap and heavy. We need the weigh for ballast anyway.
Li-Po batteries have a nasty tendancy to explode/burst into flames if they are mis-treated or mis-charged !! Do a quick search on Youtube for some fairly scarey vids.
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Post by swanrail on Jan 25, 2008 16:49:53 GMT 1
Ref the reinforcing planks, I managed to pry mine off using a very sharp bevel edged standard chisel. This allowed me to cut out as very similar as in the pics above, but I used a fretsaw (long reach) between the end holes, and used a red hot long (6inch I think) nail to burn through the frames.I then glued back the reinforcing bits!!! (but made sure that the prop tube was glued in first!). I also found it was necessary to made the hole for the tube very wide, to allow for correct alignment to the motor - connect up as a complete until first (including the resin bit in its proper place) and check that there is no vibration with the motor running, then glue down! (and I finished off with a two part wood filler to level out the shaft hole).
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Post by danny on Aug 24, 2008 1:11:57 GMT 1
sorry to bump this thread up again, but I still have one question....
I'm now making up the balance of what I need exactly, but i can't seem to find the price of lassek props anywhere in this thread... does anyone ( looks at markus) know how how much they cost? I believed it was 20 euro's but I'm not sure...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2008 1:29:55 GMT 1
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Post by markus on Aug 24, 2008 11:27:41 GMT 1
sorry to bump this thread up again, but I still have one question.... I'm now making up the balance of what I need exactly, but i can't seem to find the price of lassek props anywhere in this thread... does anyone ( looks at markus) know how how much they cost? I believed it was 20 euro's but I'm not sure... lassek props is 50 euro (i have to pay 49 for them) markus
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Post by danny on Aug 24, 2008 12:43:57 GMT 1
thanks! I see a lot of prices have changed so I can start all over with my price list ;D
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negni
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Post by negni on Oct 28, 2008 15:57:04 GMT 1
Hey Marcus can i order the 3 motordrive set. My English is not so well but a try to do my best. Please let me now how a can pay you. Regards Cor
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Post by markus on Oct 28, 2008 17:58:53 GMT 1
Hey Marcus can i order the 3 motordrive set. My English is not so well but a try to do my best. Please let me now how a can pay you. Regards Cor just sent you a pm.... markus
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negni
New recruit
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Post by negni on Oct 28, 2008 19:40:52 GMT 1
Markus i have send you de money and i send you one pm
Cor
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Post by scootermoose on Mar 8, 2009 1:28:14 GMT 1
Hey there markus
I havn't done an R/C model but the three motor looks much more intriguing than the two motor set up. Just wondering what is the difference in the two or three motor set ups?? but i thought if I am spending all this money on the model i would rather have it to top notch and pos take the chellenge on a 3 motor set up.
I am in New Zealand and just wondering on the currency differences if you would know??
Thanks Scott
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2009 1:55:22 GMT 1
Google is showing 1 New Zealand dollar = 0.396066972 Euros when I looked which was 08/03/2009 at 11.54 am. You have to modify the hull internaly for the 3 motor setup, but I think it's worth doing. See page 13 of this thread for some photos on the mods needed. Also see page 8 of my build diary.
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