Smackmback Bob's Little Tinny.

Thanks!

your a dick, ya know that doncha........lol

Rofl yep, I do. Your deck parts are looking good. Think I still need to sand mine down a bit. Oh and I've posted a photo of the start of the mod in my build diary.

my deck was built by instructions, except for gluing both deck parts togehter.

yes, i had to narrow the deck approx 1mm in the middle. i think this was because of tolerances of the 10x3mm strips from hachette.

just make sure your deck has the same width like the hull with 1st planking. this measure should be 18cm

if you intend to plank double above the recess just put your deck onto the end of the first layer and make your deck flush with the first layer.

if you extend the 2nd planking for 4 or 5mm your deck perfectly fits into the planking. planks with 8x2mm aren't essential for that, but they give more strength than 5x1,5mm ones

and forget about drilling holes into the deck for fastening. this is bulls**t....
luckily my deck fitted without any need to fasten it in any way. if needed it can be fastened with magnets, see don's thread..

spacers what do you mean ?

My original top plank lay UNDER the removable deck, but this (1)looked ugly with a gap at the sides and (2) danger of water getting in!".
I originally fitted the "spacers" to help seal the hull against water ingress, allowed me to fit the magnets without using the Hachette "blocks of wood", and stiffened up the side of the hull, where they might be a problem when handling the hull putting it in and out of the water.
Later, I decided to heighten the single side planks as per Markus so that the crack would appear at deck level and would look better, also improves the water seal. This meant adding a 5 by 1.5 mm strip as per my section of the forum. The "spacers" are now redundant for the water seal need, but still help to stiffen up the side of the hull so preventing it from warping with time. They also give a nice firm bed for the removable deck.
At the bow end, I planked as per Hachette upto about 3mm below the fixed deck, then added a thin plank and finally wood filler to bring up UNDER the fixed deck. This leaves the side slighly square (by about 1mm plus another 1mm for the deck margin plank) after sanding the second coat (the ply bit), but this fits in with the profile at this point in the Anatomy book.
Having now found a need to modify the foredeck, I only wish that that I had not glued this deck down until I had researched its function in the build much later on!!! (if only Hachette had supplied a proper plan at the beginning.................................)

Only if you want to carry out the mod as per my Foredeck thread in my part of the forum. (not compulsory!!!!!) ;D

Guys thats fantastic ....thankyou so much ...I get now. Looks like I have the piccy problems just about solved. I have a very very secure security program install and we have realised The are some areas that have little blockages or hurdles that have to be adjusted. When the wall is up it is uncrackable by anyone sofar.
Besides all that crap....my next querie is the foredeck and its relationship to the turrets. If I do the foreward angular deck cut at the water wall what happens to the workings of the front turret etc etc. I know you did it for better connect/seal/ and water etc. Could do with a little clarification. Also now that the main deck situ is covered I can go to forum and reread but whats the go with wiring too of turrets removal on access.
Yes the spacers were exactly that AFKKY ....thanks. Swanny thanks.