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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2008 4:31:24 GMT 1
If you can, replace the whole of the upper side from the two skins upwards with 20mm wide plank 1.5mm thick, else do as I did and glue a 5mm plank ontop to the ones already fitted. (not so strong though). Can't quite picture what you mean about the skin / plank
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Post by afkmatrix on Apr 4, 2008 9:02:13 GMT 1
Basically what swanrail is on about is the side extension of the planks so that it covers the sides of the deck. As if you follow the Hachette instructions the deck just sits on the top of the planking and if ur R/cing ur model thats not very watertight.
So as you have just begun your planking what swanrail is suggesting is take a 20mm x 1.5mm piece of lime plank and attach it above where you have planked at the moment so that it pokes up above the top of your ribs. Then you must sand down your decking so that it slots down between this raised planking, thus making a better water seal.
For those of us who have completed or got the top planks fitted as per instructions we had to take a different course and stick an extra length of plank ontop of the existing planking.
If you want clarification look at my build log and find the pics with the drawing pins or look at swanrails modifications thread for the plank extension thread.
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Post by eric on Apr 4, 2008 9:04:32 GMT 1
Skyfire, I get what Don is saying and he's right.
The supplied planks are 5mm wide, so if you were to plank upto the top of the ribs with these planks as per the destructions, you then have to do as we have....that is, glue an extra pank on top of them to bring the hull up above the deck.
But if you were to get some wider planks, the last plank would be attached to the ribs AND rising above the deck, making it much stronger than ours are and less liable to breaking off.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2008 9:17:39 GMT 1
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Post by brianc on Apr 4, 2008 12:50:15 GMT 1
Hi Skyfire.
I get my modelling woods from E.M.A. Model Supplies. they sell sheets of lime wood..... 1.5mm sheet about £6. Postage can be a bit steep,depends on how much you get ,its about 3 quid for a single sheet but the quality is excellent. Hope this helps ;D ;D
__________________ Brian.
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Post by swanrail on Apr 4, 2008 20:56:22 GMT 1
Thanks Eric/Afkmatrix for clarifying my post. Thought that I had explained it enough, but obviously not!!! The Model Dockyard do 20mm wide planks in lime, but 2mm thick which might be a bit too much. An alternative might be is to glue side by side two 10mm planks before fixing to the hull, at least the joints would be in the right place!!!!
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Post by rem2007 on Apr 4, 2008 21:06:42 GMT 1
Hi Rob, Mine models measurements are: 34 inches (approx. 870mm)betweeen the two fixed decks as supplied by Hachette, or 38 inches (approx. 970mm) from the after fixed deck to the modified foredeck shaped as per the breakwater. If you can, replace the whole of the upper side from the two skins upwards with 20mm wide plank 1.5mm thick, else do as I did and glue a 5mm plank ontop to the ones already fitted. (not so strong though). Much as I would like to, cannot come next weekend, as my wife is very poorly and makes me a bit housebound. (she has to be pushed around my bungalow in a wheel chair) and she is not very good at travelling at the moment. Shall be thinking of you there and envious!!! Good luck with the build, Don hi don best wishes to your missus and thanks for the info, am going on top o the original upper planking as fitted, will miss not meeting you but as just down in devon we will in due course cross paths. cheers robert
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Post by rem2007 on May 11, 2008 8:47:47 GMT 1
Hi Don, got the 2 side pieces on above the per instruction planking for the side mod. Question? My deck now needs t be sanded back to fit in right? Any tricks for this, or is it just sand and fit, sand and fit, etc.? As I'm stciking with the screws supplied and have not gone the magnetic route. Any suggestions! Robert
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Post by poulw on May 11, 2008 12:34:32 GMT 1
For what it's worth, the only way I know is unfortunately the one you mentioned - the hard way. Sand and fit, sand and fit .....
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Post by swanrail on May 11, 2008 14:54:56 GMT 1
As Poulw says, its a queston of sanding carefully a bit at at a time to ensure a tight fit. I actually took the orginal deck, made sure it fitted exactly over the hull as per the Hachette original, then drew a line around it (sides only of course!!) 1mm in from the edge. This allowed me to heavy sand down almost to the line, then gently finish off with finer sandpaper to fit tightly. My rough sanding took place using a drum on my Minicraft drill, much easier to control and to remove waste quickly. Ref fixing down: I do not like using screws, OK for then static model as they will be covered over by the deck veneer. I use magnets as they are totally enclosed so no trouble with the veneer. In retrospect, my deck is now planked and with the heavy superstructure I think that it will hold in place quite well with no fastenings at all!!!! However, you MUST make sure that the deck beds down properly on its supports. ie if you push down on the deck when completed, the deck should not move or rock. If you choose not to fit fastenings as I have suggested, and later think it might be best to do something, then fit the magnets, as they can go on quite easily under the deck with minimum fuss. Note that screws will eventually ream out the wood making them lose grip, hence bad idea for decks often removed. (my British Chancellor, pictures of which in my model thread, has two sets of removable superstructures, one midships, the other one aft, both just sit in situ with gravity, no fixings at all. Never had any trouble at all, and necver shipped water although she sits low in the water, as tankers do!!!!!).
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Post by rem2007 on May 11, 2008 23:12:15 GMT 1
Thanks Don, got a better idea of that now. Have to wait for my sunburn to cool down now. Ouch!
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Post by swanrail on May 11, 2008 23:32:51 GMT 1
Know the feeling, its been a scorcher here today as well. Good for our local railway, just had a diesel weekend with about 6 different diesel units, plus a beer tent in our village with 53 real ales on tap - we have donewell this weekend!!!
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Post by Mark on May 12, 2008 0:00:53 GMT 1
.... a beer tent in our village with 53 real ales on tap !!! OK, I'm extremely jealous now Korea has a total of about 4 different lagers (not a drop of bitter in sight . The only way you can tell the difference is by reading the label on the bottle. I think they're all brewed by Mr Gnats anyway
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Post by rem2007 on May 12, 2008 8:42:22 GMT 1
Another quick question for Markus if he's about today when doing the coats of Glatfix, still have some from first layer of planking, when to you apply it? ie. once all smooth, prior to any filler or in between?
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Post by markus on May 12, 2008 17:31:02 GMT 1
Another quick question for Markus if he's about today when doing the coats of Glatfix, still have some from first layer of planking, when to you apply it? ie. once all smooth, prior to any filler or in between? glattfix is applied after second planking is coarsely sanded: glattfix, fine sanding, glattfix, fine sanding... it took me 4 coats for a really smooth hull - no filler needed at all if you still have any gaps after 3 or 4 coats of glattfix then it's time for some filler... markus
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