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Post by ph on Jun 16, 2008 20:38:43 GMT 1
Can some 1 please tell me at wot issue you start attaching the brass bits to the super structure.
Iv not started any of me brass bits yet,gona wait till you glue them on to the super structure.
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Post by griffin247 on Jun 16, 2008 21:47:49 GMT 1
With the addition of all this brass work, how heavy will the boat be? rumour has it that theres a snorkel and periscope mod for her(the boat ) towards the end of building if mainden voages fail , hattecht says they will be free ........................... lol ;D  ;D ;D  |
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Post by swanrail on Jun 16, 2008 23:36:48 GMT 1
In my case, I made the scratch built planked decks first, whilst doing so, I made up the brass side bulwarks and painted them, then, to save them getting damaged in my "spares" box, glued them on.
I had to paint before fixing, as the deck must not be sprayed on. Using the Hachette method, the deck veneer is glued down at a very late date, so they have glued theirs on in the unpainted state. (as Eric has done).
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Post by rwclancer on Aug 12, 2008 14:36:44 GMT 1
I have about a 1-2mm gap in some of my brass-work, is there anything I can use to fill it?
Many Thanks Robert
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Post by eric on Aug 12, 2008 15:27:10 GMT 1
As the brass will all get painted, it doesn't really matter what you use.....milliput would be fine.
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Post by Achtung!! on Aug 18, 2008 19:32:22 GMT 1
Quick question Mark, on your build step/issue 52 you used a mixture of materails on the wall where the three brass doorsgo, what quantitys of each material did you use?
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Post by Mark on Aug 19, 2008 0:03:25 GMT 1
You mean the PVA, talc & water ? It's about 50:50 PVA to talc, then add water till its about the consistency of paint. The mix isn't critical at all, just do it so it looks about right  |
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Post by Baz on Sept 2, 2008 12:27:28 GMT 1
 I've been comparing photos of the real Bismarck and the model catapault. The wheels on the real ship appear to be solid, yet the model has open spokes. Has anyone modified their wheels to appear the same as the actual ship, and how did they do it ? ? ? Baz |
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Post by Mark on Sept 2, 2008 14:01:02 GMT 1
You mean like the photo on page 134 of History & Destiny section of the mag. You could do it by placing a thin sheet of shim brass behind the wheel. Paper soaked in superglue might work as well. The wheels will come off quite easily, so I might well give it a go. I've been considering taking them off and fitting them on with an axle, as one has fallen off already.
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Post by eric on Sept 2, 2008 21:15:31 GMT 1
Just done the two bridge wings in issue 77, went together really well, but I was looking closely at the photos of the model in the pull-out supplied in issue 1, and there are nav lights clearly visable on the wings, but not on ours.
Do these parts come later, or are they not going to be there at all?
The closer I look at these photos, the more small differences I can see.....it's not exactly the same as ours.
No big deal really, it WILL be a cracking model regardless.
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Post by swanrail on Sept 2, 2008 23:10:46 GMT 1
The shipyard model shows the bridges in the out position, fixed at the forward end by a wooden boom, and the aft side appears to be a pulley system. No sign of nav lights there though (nor the lifebelts).
Also appears to have a pin going down through the bottom fastening, as I am doing!!!
Is the picture on the front cover of the real ship or of the model?
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Post by rwclancer on Sept 3, 2008 19:52:34 GMT 1
Has anyone had the problem that once the decking from issue 80 is fitted it makes the deck uneven. When I test fit the wooden part the rear is slightly raised, plus there seems to be a gap between it and parts 164 and 165. Any ideas? Robert
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Post by swanrail on Sept 3, 2008 23:53:55 GMT 1
Not sure what you mean with parts 164/65 as these are the supports sitting on part 162, the base of the module.
Part 162 will (eventually) be glued on the brass decking in issue 79/80.
The decking is glued down onto part 148, which must be absolutely flat (ensure that the wooden uprights are flush to this deck) and the same applies to the part 162.
In my case, the brass bits supplied have a slight bow in them (probably caused in transit) and will need a heavy weight to ensure that they are glued flat (even with Evostik Impact glue.)
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Post by Baz on Sept 11, 2008 11:23:27 GMT 1
You mean like the photo on page 134 of History & Destiny section of the mag. You could do it by placing a thin sheet of shim brass behind the wheel. Paper soaked in superglue might work as well. The wheels will come off quite easily, so I might well give it a go. I've been considering taking them off and fitting them on with an axle, as one has fallen off already. Good thinking Mark. Might use the paper soaked in pva glue.........easier to cut. As for the axles. I have not used the nails provided for Ceasar's barbette brass covering, so might adapt them. Baz |
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Post by rushzombie on Oct 2, 2008 22:06:23 GMT 1
ok here we go ,i,m back from illness and holidays etc ,on issue 82 has anyone had problems with the railings,ie too big too fit into the space ,the part i,m on about is pt 742 after being curved to shape they are too long
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;D ;D 
