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Post by rem2007 on Sept 19, 2007 23:21:46 GMT 1
Hi David, Quick question, what is that hole in the bow section for? I'm on issue 19, and am awaiting mre issues so am just curious if I missed something because it is not in Gordon's pic Robert
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Post by david on Sept 20, 2007 16:55:49 GMT 1
Hi Robert, The hole is for squirting some Glattfix into; probably not necessary but it also allows me to consider putting some ballast in (or conversely airbags for buoyancy), together with the other voids under the fixed deck. David
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Post by markus on Sept 20, 2007 18:31:40 GMT 1
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Post by david on Sept 20, 2007 23:05:58 GMT 1
Hi Markus, thanks for the pictures. Needless to say this has stimulated further questions! 1. I recall you stressing that your second layer of planks are 2mm thick, am I correct in saying therefore that you sanded the first layer down a lot? ...or, 2. Did you move the resin part further forward to create a little extra 'width' for the 2nd layer of planks? Your second picture appears to show a distance-piece between the fixed deck and the foredeck (65)...or, did you only use one layer of 2mm planks for the entire upper rows above the line of the lower belt armour, discarding the Amati 1.5mm planks altogether? 3. We know that your outer and upper planks are 2mm thick, but how far down did you carry this thickness before, presumably, tapering them off to fit with the Amati planks. 4.Below is a picture of my build with the resin part test-fitted. The line going down the front edge matches well with the planks below it, but the back end seems to be too wide by 1/2mm each side. Is it possible that my build is OK but that the resin part is slightly inaccurate? 5. Finally, did your decision not to plank over the resin piece, which I guess makes the bow slightly thinner, create any problems when you eventually fixed the resin prow? Going back to my earlier picture with the 'triangles', I still don't understand where the extra material will come from for the sharp edge that I indicate, especially if Amati specify a second layer of planks, because the fixed deck is simply not wide enough as it stands! By the way, you are to be congratulated you on the precision of your planking, you should be holding masterclasses on this subject! Many thanks. David
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Post by markus on Sept 21, 2007 18:26:55 GMT 1
1. I recall you stressing that your second layer of planks are 2mm thick, am I correct in saying therefore that you sanded the first layer down a lot? ...or, 2. Did you move the resin part further forward to create a little extra 'width' for the 2nd layer of planks? Your second picture appears to show a distance-piece between the fixed deck and the foredeck (65)...or, did you only use one layer of 2mm planks for the entire upper rows above the line of the lower belt armour, discarding the Amati 1.5mm planks altogether? 3. We know that your outer and upper planks are 2mm thick, but how far down did you carry this thickness before, presumably, tapering them off to fit with the Amati planks. 4.Below is a picture of my build with the resin part test-fitted. The line going down the front edge matches well with the planks below it, but the back end seems to be too wide by 1/2mm each side. Is it possible that my build is OK but that the resin part is slightly inaccurate? 5. Finally, did your decision not to plank over the resin piece, which I guess makes the bow slightly thinner, create any problems when you eventually fixed the resin prow? hi david! 1. only the planks above the recess are in 2mm, the rest below is in 1,5mm. i had to file the recess (on the frames, not on the 1st layer planks !!) to 1,5mm to achieve a recess of 1mm after having double planked 2. no, put the fixed deck 0,5mm backwards. needed this amount to make the removable deck fit without any gaps (and to force it a bit into its curved shape ). so resin part is where it belongs 3. there are only 2 rows of the 8*2mm planks, making them flush with the lower planks in 5*1,5mm was just a little bit of sanding 4. it's ok as long as your resin part is a little too wide - there's still a layer of 1mm planks to come if you build per instructions 5. no - the prow fitted perfectly ref. the triangles: just post a good drawing what you mean exactly - maybe i can help then here some other detail pics: planks glued (with angle to meet the hull's shape) to the bow part hull double planked stern with 1st planking stern double planked
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Post by SB on Sept 21, 2007 20:34:31 GMT 1
Nice job Markus but just one question, I like then idea about leaving a planking lip for the deck to drop into rather than the Amati method as it will protect from water ingress. But wont your method half mask the railings looking at the model from the outside as the planking looks like it will fall half way up the railings so you will only see half, or possibly the lip may interfere with the placement of the railings? A better design for Amati would have been to have a central & stern removable hatch rather than it spanning the width & near length of the model, maybe something like a hatch below the superstructure the length & width of the deck planked section down the centre of the model, just a thought. There are some bad design features in this model from Amati without a doubt Keep up the good work its looking great
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Post by jim on Sept 21, 2007 22:25:28 GMT 1
why would you need to double plank the transom since it is a moulding which goes there?
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Post by david on Sept 21, 2007 23:37:05 GMT 1
Hi Markus, thanks again for posting more photos. The illustration is based on the Jack Brower drawings, (I believe it's OK to 'quote' copyright material under publishers 'fair dealing' protocol which requires images to be credited, but maybe Mark would check this). I've marked in orange the profile of the model as it is with the first layer of planking (with deck camber). The red triangular bits I refer to show the missing sharp edge. The second illustration below is a section through the model showing the plywood deck and first planking layer in orange (as I believe we've all made it), the second planking layer in green and the 'mystery' bit in red. So my question is, how do we get the correct profile, or do Amati want us to round-off the this edge at the bow? Have you finished and painted your hull yet, or are you awaiting the final deck planking before trimming the 2mm planks to height? Dare I ask for another photo please! Many thanks. David
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Post by markus on Sept 22, 2007 8:06:02 GMT 1
this sharp edge is only needed for the very bow area i realized this edge by gluing the planks onto the wooden bow part at 30 degrees angle (see pic above). filing the upper side of those planks down to deck (veneer) level will provide that sharp angle, although mine is not that sharp as in your drawing hull is only primed, planking is filed to deck level later as soon as i know the deck veneer's thickness
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Post by markus on Sept 22, 2007 8:11:20 GMT 1
Nice job Markus but just one question, I like then idea about leaving a planking lip for the deck to drop into rather than the Amati method as it will protect from water ingress. But wont your method half mask the railings looking at the model from the outside as the planking looks like it will fall half way up the railings so you will only see half, or possibly the lip may interfere with the placement of the railings? A better design for Amati would have been to have a central & stern removable hatch rather than it spanning the width & near length of the model, maybe something like a hatch below the superstructure the length & width of the deck planked section down the centre of the model, just a thought. There are some bad design features in this model from Amati without a doubt Keep up the good work its looking great the railing won't be masked because i'll mount them ON the 2nd planking, NOT on the deck even if the railings have to be mounted on the deck, the planking will be filed down to deck level so there's no problem markus
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Post by markus on Sept 22, 2007 8:14:14 GMT 1
why would you need to double plank the transom since it is a moulding which goes there? which transom do you mean?
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Post by rem2007 on Sept 22, 2007 19:35:52 GMT 1
Hi nemesis, Thanks for the compliment. Issue 19 doesn't seem to show the completion of the planks near the stern, but as the diagram on page 37 shows in yellow that we should have the parts, so I completed the task. As for the step you mention, yep, I think we will have to sand down the planks to the level of the ply! Cheers napoleon HI Napoleon, Too muc Glatfix or time at the pub. I just finished issue 19 and have only the 3 center deck planks aft of midships. Did I miss something, as the last photo in the destructions do not indicate further deck planking and looking ahread in the das german preview cannot see where this is completed. Or should I just go back to the pub with the can of Glatfix? Philosophy and glatfix don't mix. Robert
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Post by david on Sept 23, 2007 23:16:30 GMT 1
Markus, Thanks for posting the new pics, I've only just seen them. Since you've applied the 2mm thick planks to the bow piece 65 at 30 degrees, presumably this makes the bow wider than the straight Amati model at this point? I've just started to file back the central ribs to accomodate the upper 2mm planks, leaving one or two of the ribs looking a bit spindle-like. Scary!David.
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Post by markus on Sept 25, 2007 18:03:05 GMT 1
Markus, Thanks for posting the new pics, I've only just seen them. Since you've applied the 2mm thick planks to the bow piece 65 at 30 degrees, presumably this makes the bow wider than the straight Amati model at this point? I've just started to file back the central ribs to accomodate the upper 2mm planks, leaving one or two of the ribs looking a bit spindle-like. Scary!David. no, this doesn't make the bow wider - amati uses 1mm planks (2nd planking) without filing the bow part to 30 degrees, so width will be almost the same. be careful, mate - the upper 2mm planks aren't provided or suggested by amati, this was just my way of doing it !!! filing the ribs back to 2mm will cause a disaster if you build as per instructions (2nd planking only below the recess) markus
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Post by eric on Sept 25, 2007 20:24:09 GMT 1
Markus, I see that you have not planked over the resin part at the bow, my resin part is 1mm proud all round, I have been thinking I should sand it flush, but do you think I could leave it and second plank as you have done?
Thanks Eric.
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